Set

http://i.imgur.com/t72ouCC.jpg

Thats my current tyre wear after 5 tank or so

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Are you putting them on the car straight out the packet and so what diameter are you starting with - it should be 62mm front and 64mm rear? What shore of these? If they go on the car straight out the packet then I think they'll both be at 64mm and that is why you'll get such uneven tyre wear and also if the shore is the same front rear you'll get the same uneven wear. You must have at least 5 shore softer fronts than rears.

Set

matrix 37f 40r straight out of packet, no idea what the initial diameter is, the rear would wear out 2x the rate of the front though

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Try 32f with the setup I posted earlier. Stiffen up the car and go softer front tires. You need ideally to true the tires down a bit from out the packet (especially the fronts) so you've got a 2mm split. Then you'll be fine.

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

what happened to my picture?

Dane

iTrader: (26)

Who thinks we will get a new car for 2018?

ogreasurada

iTrader: (1)

Dont know, the WC is already a very mature platform, unless they overhaul the main design again. At the mean time, just hope they have enough time and luck to get the 988 to full battle mode.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

I'd guess we are a year away at least from a new car. Perhaps for the WC 1/10 which is next year.

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

anyone know why i can not upload pics?

S710_Nut

Hi

Has been awhile since running a Serpent. Was wondering on the 748 with the way the top a arms mount to the radio tray does this make it harder to work on car?

Normally i would remove radio tray and then work on with end of the car before reassembling. Would appear on 748 would need to unscrew both front hubs and then remove the tray due to alloy mount on the radio tray.

Thanks in advance!

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Nope. The car is awesome to work on. You can remove the radio plate very easily. Just unscrew the rear of the upper arm mount and it pivots out of the way. You don't need to remove the front screws.

S710_Nut

Dan

Thanks, don't know why I thought that wouldn't be possible or difficult to reassemble :S

jnunez001

Hey Dan can you shed any light on Roll Center for the front a rear of the sedan?? to be specific im curious about the chamber link in the rear and if you are using and shims under the front upper a arms??

My setup is really similar to yours. i have a thickers oil in the front and same spring. YES my car jumps so im gonna go from 1200 to 800 weight in the front and try that. im using the same springs as you front and rear. your 2.5 million oil in the front is Gravity RC??

Are you running the front brass bracket??

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

So basically lowering the front upper bracket raises the roll centre and so you get more on power steering (less off power steering). Raising the bracket the opposite is true. Running the pin insert to the outside will shorten the upper arm length which will reduce the amount the car rolls in the turn and keeps the roll centre higher throughout the turn thus generating more lateral grip at the front of the car. Using the pin insert to the inside will lengthen the arm and basically make the car feel smoother but with less steering overall. on the 748 I usually run between 1 - 2mm of shims depending on where I want my steering feel from track to track.

At the rear upper link. Raising the position of the inner joint lowers the roll centre which will translate in more roll reducing lateral grip at the rear of the car. It can help to reduce grip roll over if you are suffering from that problem. Lowering the inner position raises the roll centre which reduces chassis roll and increases lateral grip. Shortening the rear upper link will make the car lean less and affects camber gain and I have never like the car with a short rear link and so I don't try it anymore. Most of the time on the 748 I run the rear upper link in the standard position.

I've only ever used the front lower brass bracket once and that was in crazy high traction conditions in Thailand at the 2014 worlds to help stop traction roll. We had really weird setups on the car and massive amounts of brass weight to try to stop the traction roll. You only need that brass weight in very high grip conditions where traction roll is a problem, it actually reduces on power steering.

2.5M Diff oil is from Gravity RC. I don't personally like the car with different shock oil front/rear. I alternate between 800/3 hole and 1000/3 hole depending on the track etc.

jnunez001

thank you for taking the time to explain all this!