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Serpent 748 200mm nitro onroad kit

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Serpent 748 200mm nitro onroad kit

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Old 04-10-2014, 10:44 AM
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There goes my checking account


Pass you soon...
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:48 AM
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Seems like the wishbones and bearing blocks are the same as the 747 as well as the SL6 gearbox albeit with a lighter shaft. Belts and pulleys also look the same. That's good news for those of us with quite a few 747 spares still. Also kept my favorite feature - sliding chassis weights The radio box looks a little bit clumsy though! Super short shocks as standard too...
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
Seems like the wishbones and bearing blocks are the same as the 747 as well as the SL6 gearbox albeit with a lighter shaft. Belts and pulleys also look the same. That's good news for those of us with quite a few 747 spares still. Also kept my favorite feature - sliding chassis weights The radio box looks a little bit clumsy though! Super short shocks as standard too...
The believe the rear bearing blocks have changed. Also the rear belt has changed because of the new diffs
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
The believe the rear bearing blocks have changed. Also the rear belt has changed because of the new diffs
Rear bearing blocks of the diff are the same, the 2speed bearing blocks are new. Front bearing blocks are new as well.

Last edited by Julius; 04-10-2014 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:49 AM
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Thanks for the info. They'll have to go some to get from prototype to release by end of May!
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:15 PM
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Very nice!!!!!!!

My suggestion for MS: a more resistent rear shock tower ( maybe thicker carbon ?)

GHN
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Julius View Post
Rear bearing blocks of the diff are the same, the 2speed bearing blocks are new. Front bearink blocks are new as well.
Yea.... what he said
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Old 04-11-2014, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
There goes my checking account


Pass you soon...
I have a jar in my RC room that has the label on it "748 fund". Should be enough by May for the car and some newer spares! lol
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Old 04-11-2014, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by JJBinks View Post
I have a jar in my RC room that has the label on it "748 fund". Should be enough by May for the car and some newer spares! lol
The jar in my RC room is for the gasoline fund to get to the races....I need a bigger jar!
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:22 AM
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The rear antiroll bar attaches directly to the set screws of the shocks!brilliant! It should be more sensitive,nice!

Funny they did not put the brakes in the rear diff. The aero wheels me likely!!!

The timing of the release of the car is kinda late though.its hard to study the set up from June to November. And testing is still in progres
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GPXJOE View Post
The rear antiroll bar attaches directly to the set screws of the shocks!brilliant! It should be more sensitive,nice!
Its like that on the 747-e. Ive just converted one of my 747 chassis into the 'e'. Its a neat installation!
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:25 PM
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Nah electric can be complicated to learn and I don't want me car to set fire hehe.

Guys question, I had that problem where the 2speed was not shifting consistently. So I opened it up and saw that the hole where the thread is for the springed screw, that hole had thread sticking out.so I figured to sand it down because that would create possible inconsistent gap that would cause the shifting inconsistency. I also added 6x7 shims between the two speed shaft holder bearing and the pin of the 2speed adaptor. I also put the same size shim between the adaptor and the 2speed housing so that the shoes won't bind with the housing screws. After that, the 1st spur gear does not have play anymore.actually all has no play anymore except the spur gear 1st gear of probably half of 0.1mm play.

Question is,

1. Will the shims break?
2. Can the shims break the bearing or the one-way?
3. Should there be play in the 1st place or minimize play is best?

I haven't started he car yet I thought is ask first just in case!
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Old 04-14-2014, 12:35 PM
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I forgot to mention that I put shims also between first and second gear so that first gear is aligned with the pinion gear. Will the shims break itself or the bearing or the one-way? Scary if you ask me!
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by GPXJOE View Post
I forgot to mention that I put shims also between first and second gear so that first gear is aligned with the pinion gear. Will the shims break itself or the bearing or the one-way? Scary if you ask me!
Never shim the shaft until there is no side to side play. .2 to .3mm should be good. Bad things happen when the shaft is not allowed to float. The 1st gear one way bearing might seize.
I would shim behind the flywheel cone on the engine as much as possible to correct the gear alignment. My gears are never 100% aligned and I have never stripped a gear.


Pass you soon...
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
Never shim the shaft until there is no side to side play. .2 to .3mm should be good. Bad things happen when the shaft is not allowed to float. The 1st gear one way bearing might seize.
I would shim behind the flywheel cone on the engine as much as possible to correct the gear alignment. My gears are never 100% aligned and I have never stripped a gear.


Pass you soon...
Yep, you have to account for heat expansion, I run mine with up to 1mm of play and it works fine on the 977
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