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Old 08-01-2005, 06:15 PM   #1
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Lightbulb Building your own receiver pack

Hey guys, I was about to build my own receiver pack.(a AAA '2 on top 3' hump style) Now, I've built a couple of small packs before, like a couple transmitter packs for my various radios and a 2/3A pack for my micro. Its just cheaper to do it yourself than to buy them prebuilt.

But I'm looking to see if anyone has any really good methods that I haven't thought of.

-I usually use thin metal strips to connect the cells. (Like those used to build stick packs except smaller)
-I'll stick the cells together using Loctite Handyman Helper (like Shoo goo...except better)
-And I wrap the pack in electrical tape to protect the ends.

Problem is:
-I hate those little metal strips cause they are near impossible to solder on and their too easily bent or broken.
and
-The black tape looks hack and collects debree (especially on a nitro car)
-The Handyman Helper dries clear and is moderately flexable, so its perfect for holding the pack together. So I'm happy with that.

*What I want to know is, whats a better substitute for the thin strips? I've tried thin (servo thickness) wire and even old motor brush shunts. Just because they're easier to solder. Any better options?

*Where can I find larger sizes of shrink wrap? Similar to what the prebuilt packs use to cover most of the pack. Radio Shack???

Thanks for any answers or ideas. Feel free to include pics of any self made packs you have.

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Old 08-01-2005, 06:23 PM   #2
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I'm not sure about the Shrink Wrap, but radio shack has a roll of braided wire that I used to make mine.
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Old 08-01-2005, 07:41 PM   #3
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I'd check out maxamps.com - they have some small scale battery bars that are pretty nice...

The other thing I've used in a pinch was the "T" style straight pins - Durbo makes them for airplane modellers...I size them up and cut the pointy end off as needed - I've used this set-up in my 8th scale buggy without problems and my latest pack I've built for my R40

Maxamps.com also has heat shrink in larger widths for receiver packs
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Old 08-02-2005, 08:58 AM   #4
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Thanks for the tips guys.

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Old 08-02-2005, 09:30 AM   #5
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I found 3v lithium batteries @ radioshack. Im thinking on going with this route as you get longer runtimes and lighter packs. Only problem is if I can charge it and how easy they are to work with. They have a big selection of the 3v lithiums as well. But they all say not to be recharged? Im wondering why not as most all lithium can be charged correct?

Im going to be using mine in my r40. The only problem is I cant seem to find the right battery. There is one that when I use two together it will be shaped somewhat similiar to the regular flat packs, its a good size so I figure the runtime is good on those.

Then there are these little almost half AA sized batteries that also have 3v and then a 9v looking cell that has 3v. I want to use the larger but the sizes are kinda weird to where I think it wont be easy.

Then there are 7.2v larger lithium batteries cells. I was thinking it might be too much juice though for everything.

Ill let you guys know if I figure something out. Maybe ill test to see how long those small ones will last. Those would also be ultra ultra lightweight.
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Old 08-02-2005, 10:48 AM   #6
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If you race electric, don't throw away those old brushes! The shunts make excellent braids for building rx packs.
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:19 PM   #7
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I also have made my own aaa receiver packs. I use a gel similar to shoe goo to stick them together. As mentioned by someone else, I use the radio shack braid, which is desoldering braid. Fully saturate it with solder and it works well for this purpose. I got shrink wrap from Fry's electronics to wrap the pack with.
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:51 PM   #8
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I use the braid too. I have done the shrink wrap thing which works good, but have also used the vinyl "dip" used to coat tool handles. You can get it in different colors at Home Depot or any hardware store. After you glue the cells together and solder everything on, you dip the pack and let it dry. This works well on odd cell configurations. I have done this with good results for custom packs on my micro rs4.
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duneland
If you race electric, don't throw away those old brushes! The shunts make excellent braids for building rx packs.
Yeah, I mentioned that in my original post. Its definitely a really good use of old brushes!
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Roy
I use the braid too. I have done the shrink wrap thing which works good, but have also used the vinyl "dip" used to coat tool handles.
Interesting!
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Old 08-02-2005, 05:54 PM   #11
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For 1.000mah or 1.100mah AAA's try this link :

http://www.kelkoo.de/b/a/ss_akku_aaa.html


cya !


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Old 08-03-2005, 07:18 AM   #12
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panasonic has a new aaa 1350mah nimh! $7 the pair.
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Old 08-03-2005, 12:50 PM   #13
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The real question is how much charge do the new cells actually hold. I do know that the Sanyo AAA's work much better then the others in general. I know a couple of the guys in the R40 thread had measured discharge rates and duration with there packs and found this out. Anybody out there tried this yet with the new higher capacity cells?
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Old 08-03-2005, 12:58 PM   #14
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that wierd i never knew AAA reached 1100 yet... so far i have only seen sanyo 850 or 900... I have always tot sanyo was the fastest to release the higher capacity cells...

BTW if i were to build a receiver batt pack using Lion, can i use my regular charger i normally use wif my usual nimh packs?
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Old 08-03-2005, 01:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragon
that wierd i never knew AAA reached 1100 yet... so far i have only seen sanyo 850 or 900... I have always tot sanyo was the fastest to release the higher capacity cells...

BTW if i were to build a receiver batt pack using Lion, can i use my regular charger i normally use wif my usual nimh packs?
You will need a special charger for the lipoly batteries. They don't seem to be very expensive though.
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