Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Thank you for the help. I went back today running the 258mm wheelbase and went +1.5mm upper front roll centre with continuing to use the thicker diffs front and rear. At first I tried without the brace and it had tons of mid corner steering but was stiffy iffy on corner entry. Ran the brace and it was a heap better, think now I need to work on my lines and I will be better.

Thanks again,
Andrew

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Question regarding the new shocks on the 2014 edition. Are the shock pistons the same as the early models(eg: 2011,2012, Pro)?

For example can I build the new shocks with the same piston holes and get same results as I have been getting or we are starting again?

Thank in advance!
Andrew

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

XRAY New Option Parts

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Re: Rear Aluminium Bulkhead Cover

Just wondered if any benefit running the alloy version over the stock plastic one? as I would think the alloy one is heaver then the standard plastic version? Is extra weight needed in that area?

Thanks
Andrew

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Im not sure about weight, but I used both and for some reason I always would switch back to the plastic.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

JOE SI: Alloy version is 2 grams heavier then the standard plastic one.

Is 336231-O weigh less then the plastic ones? It certainly has a lot less material in the middle so I am guessing it would be, but wanted to check first.

Thanks in advance!
Andrew

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

ok guys what is the differences on the new 14 shocks verses the 11 or 12 shocks? towers?

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

Orange instead of silver color?

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Mainly the shock pistons have changed, which I believe are originally from the electric car. They are now these non-adjustable composite ones .

Also, the bottom end of the shock only has one o-ring and a spacer now, guess this is to create less friction/drag on the shock shaft itself. Oh and yes they are orange and black now, instead of silver.

Thanks,
Andrew

azeroth

iTrader: (21)

thank you

rasta_man

Anyone know where to buy a titanium screws kit for NT1?

johnsen-dk

Hi

Have anyone had any problems with stripping the 1 gear? I have changed the oneway adapter , use the hudy oneway oil , give it one drop every 30 min. Have stripped around 10 1 gears , both 59 and 60.

Any ideas

Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

Interesting....I have never stripped a gear on any Xray I have owned (this is one of its strong points compared to other cars).

My 2014 is only one club day old, gears are perfect. I do run tighter meshes than most, I mesh the engine with only the first spur on, getting this to mesh perfectly, not worrying about the 2nd gear.

Are you using the normal plastic gears or the new graphite ones?

You mentioned some problems with your clutch spring earlier, has this been resolved? I just run the CRF spring, never tried the stock one.

johnsen-dk

I think its the normal gears. And also tight meshes. I think its a oneway/axle problem. We ran race this weekend , after around 15min , broke my 1 gear , changed only the gear , used the same oneway , max 10 laps , and it broke. Then I called it a day

No , clutch is a problem , using a cap spring. Only one in denmark is using the clutch

kickass

iTrader: (6)

original xray gears were always shit. Use KM gears problem solved (better material), this was a few years ago not sure now im assuming the same :}