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Old 02-06-2014, 01:14 PM   #16
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All though looking at this photograph this has a purely wire type.
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:55 PM   #17
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nice car
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Old 02-06-2014, 09:36 PM   #18
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The Neo Sabre(Serpent clone) used to have a ARB that was both blade and wire. The ends were blade, attached to a wire center.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:04 AM   #19
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nice car
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:10 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by nitrodude View Post
The Neo Sabre(Serpent clone) used to have a ARB that was both blade and wire. The ends were blade, attached to a wire center.
Serpent was the first. For the Excel/Vector there was an U shape wire with on one side a blade.
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:25 AM   #21
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Serpent was the first. For the Excel/Vector there was an U shape wire with on one side a blade.
Yea this is exactly how it was on the Lotus 79 I saw.

I was getting my wires crossed the Lotus 49 was purely a Wire type, the Lotus 79 had a wire/blade arrangement with the right rear hand side an adjustable blade type.
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:48 AM   #22
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A few years ago I did visit the Dutch Racing for Holland team and made some nice pics (It is a Dome car). One of them in the attachement where you can see the blade swaybar. It is a kind of construction used on the Veteq.

More pics: https://www.facebook.com/roelof.toom...7726552&type=3
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wire vs blade sway bar-swaybar.jpg  
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:08 AM   #23
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Here's the sway bar on the rear end of the Swift DB1 FF. If you look closely at the fat end of the blade, you can see the mechanism for rotating the blade to adjust the roll stiffness from the cockpit. Only one side needs to be rotated, as the action is still symmetrical even if the blades are at different angles (or if there is a blade on just one side).

This car was an absolute work of art. It's hard to believe it's over thirty years old now! (Unfortunately, my feet were too big to fit into one!)

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Old 02-07-2014, 07:59 AM   #24
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The blade style is used in many real racing cars simply because it permits the driver to adjust the stiffness while driving.

To be clear, when I refer to "roll blade setup" in my post, I am referring to the the ball and socket type bar commonly used on the front of 1/8 on road cars. I personally have never seen this ball/socket type bar used on a 1:1 race car but then again I have not seen every 1:1 race ever built either.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:28 AM   #25
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To be clear, when I refer to "roll blade setup" in my post, I am referring to the the ball and socket type bar commonly used on the front of 1/8 on road cars. I personally have never seen this ball/socket type bar used on a 1:1 race car but then again I have not seen every 1:1 race ever built either.
That is simply a different form of actuation. It still does exactly what a sway bar is supposed to do.

My Xray T1s (electric TCs) have these on the front, and they are very easy to adjust quickly to any setting. It's one of the best features on this great old chassis.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:33 PM   #26
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These type of blade ARB are commonly used in F1, look at the Ferrari design.
http://scarbsf1.com/blog1/2011/10/26...bar-solutions/
In our cars the reaction point is the fulcrum of ARB carrier, usually arm's pin.

ciao
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:30 PM   #27
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Ferrari's version is essentially what we're using in 1/8 cars on the front, I was about to post that link, Craig Scarborough is very informative!

We just use a ball cup, rather than bearings to allow rotation of the blade to adjust roll stiffness.

I still stand by the fact blade roll bars are a good solution! Although I think we'll see every manufacturer in RC move to wire eventually due to easy of use.
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Old 12-29-2015, 12:24 PM   #28
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So should a blade car be converted over to a wire system?

Given that nearly all cars ran blades for so long, (the KM K8 car still gives you the either/or option up front) is getting the tweak out of a blade system really that much of an issue?

Where does one system excel vs the other?

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Old 12-29-2015, 04:20 PM   #29
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The blade system has one big advantage: the adjustability.
However the biggest problem is that it is not easy to get them to be soft enough. Especially in 1/10th cars the blades become quite short. Even more so in the newer cars where the bottom inner hing pins are quite close together which means the blade becomes shortt and thus not flexible enough. If you make them very thin they will bend too easily leading to tweak.

A combination of wire and blade can be a good compromise, however a lot of the current designs do not have the space required. Or the blade would bee too stiff which in combination with a thin wire leads to very limited, if any, adjustability. The wire bends before the blade does...

Another advantage of wire is that setup is much easier to duplicate. With blades a small change in angle can have a big difference in stiffness. Especially when the blade goes beyond 45 degrees from flat.
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:14 AM   #30
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Anyone convert a "blade-Style" car over to a wire system? Any success stories?

I would assume that a low-bite situation would favor a wire over a blade given that there is less moment required for the initial movement. And like Julius mentioned, the wire is much easier to duplicate/consistent.

The advantage of the blade is that you do not need a bin full of wires. Any other thoughts? Thank you
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