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Old 07-23-2005, 06:37 PM   #1
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Default Adjusting Centax on PRP XR/8

I'm going to ASSume I have problems. The engine revs, and revs, then the clutch engages. Sometimes the engine stalls. I have to give it good gas to get it to go.

Question:

What type of tuning do I need to do, to engage to clutch a lot sooner than what it is doing right now. It sounds like good rpms being wasted.

Thanks in advance,
K
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Old 07-24-2005, 02:11 AM   #2
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Mine came with 3 springs, you may need to use the softest one. The looser the nut on that spring, the earlier it enguages. Make sure that you put the shoes between the posts in the bell housing. The instructions make it look like you put them over the posts, through the little holes, but you don't. That would give it the sypmtoms you're describing.
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Old 07-24-2005, 06:33 AM   #3
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I'm jealous, mines only came with spring.

Let me get this straight, you are saying that the 4 shoes should be between the post and not through the wholes. Your right, the diagram is very mis leading. It doesn't look like the shoes can between the posts. I'll give it a try to see what happens, unfortunately I won't be able to run it today, because it's going to be over 100 degrees her today, but I'll let you know how that goes.

I assuming the flyweights are held in place by the clutch shoe. Do your flyweights have 1 or 2 holes in them?

Thanks for everything

K
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Old 07-24-2005, 11:35 AM   #4
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I made the same mistake with the shoes, and they have two holes in them. I spent an afternoon just adjusting and testing, I'm "almost" happy with it. It still doesn't jump like the original RTR clutch. I'm very supprised and a little dissappointed in it so far. But I really haven't driven it since that day, because of bad glitching. I will soon have a DX3 though, and in theory, that will stop the glitches, and begin the testing again
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Old 07-24-2005, 05:41 PM   #5
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I've made the switch, but the bearing inside the housing cracked. ARRRRGGGGGGGGG.

Do you any of you know the specs on that bearing so I can get another. It's hard to tell from the directions.

Just out of curiosity, how do you properly set the 2-speed? It doesn't sound like it is engaging when it is driven.

Thanks in advance,
K
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Old 07-24-2005, 08:59 PM   #6
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In all likelyhood, your tranny is stuck in second gear. You have to remove it, and adjust the two screws on either side. It's difficult to explain with a keyboard, but I'll try. These two screws work like the one adjustment nut in your clutch. The looser the screws, the sooner 2nd gear enguages. So you should try tightening them first. Make sure you count, and match the amount of turns on each. If one side is looser/tighter, it won't work right. You'll know when you have it right, because it'll fly off the line, and almost jump again when you hit 2nd gear...
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Old 07-24-2005, 09:12 PM   #7
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Thanks for the help.

Any word on the size of that bearing? I'm going to email Roger in the morning. Thanks for all.

K
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Old 07-25-2005, 12:15 AM   #8
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I'd take it to a local hobby shop and see if they can match, or order the part. I don't know what size it is either.
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim
. You'll know when you have it right, because it'll fly off the line, and almost jump again when you hit 2nd gear...
You should also be able to hear it change into 2nd gear when you have the car out on the track.
If youre trying to set the 2 speed on a bench.....you`ll feel a clunking (its hard to explain the exact feel ) type of knock on the car as it hits 2nd gear.....its easier to feel this if your holding the car.
As for "wasted rpms" by the clutch engaging later.......it depends a lot on the engine and the track....if an engage makes most of its power high up in its rpm range, then the clutch engaging later will help make for faster times.
Cheers
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:06 PM   #10
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Oops darn typos......engage=engine
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