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Old 07-06-2006, 01:06 PM   #1351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
Bob, the shafts that broke, were they the old shaft with two flats spots on the shaft or were they the new shaft with only a single flat spot?

In the 960 ref guide:

903113 Bearing block RR L
903114 Bearing block RR R

Which one has to be replaced to get the 3 bearing setup?

Thanks in advance.
Don't you mean 4 flats v.s 2 flats? Haven't seen any with one flat.
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Old 07-06-2006, 11:26 PM   #1352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob The Builder
One was definately the two flat shaft - not sure about the other yet - will find out at the weekend.



Are the new parts the same number as the old ones or have they used a new number ?
If they have used the same number - how do you tell the latest ones before you open the packet ?

Is the third bearing the same size as the other mainshaft bearings ?

Good question. How do you tell them apart?
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Old 07-07-2006, 01:18 AM   #1353
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Quote:
Don't you mean 4 flats v.s 2 flats? Haven't seen any with one flat.
One of the broken shafts had 4 flats on it - the other one only had two flats on it ( Latest version I belive ).

Looks like the way to fix it properly is to identify and fit the new bearing blocks.

Anyone got a pic of the differences in the bearing blocks so that I can see if the stock in the local model shop is old or new design ?

cheers
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:50 AM   #1354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob The Builder
One of the broken shafts had 4 flats on it - the other one only had two flats on it ( Latest version I belive ).

Looks like the way to fix it properly is to identify and fit the new bearing blocks.

Anyone got a pic of the differences in the bearing blocks so that I can see if the stock in the local model shop is old or new design ?

cheers
You have a PM Bob. Beside this, the difference is that the new block (left) has a bigger hole at the inside, the size of the bearing is like those in the mid-shaft.
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Old 07-08-2006, 10:28 AM   #1355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid
35 = 600.. the newer bottle has additional number for its equivalent

Pyramid is correct.

35wt = 600
40wt = 1000
45wt = 1400
50wt = 2000
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Old 07-08-2006, 10:51 AM   #1356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMSorber
You have to purschase the new back-bearingblocks, they come with 3 shaft bearings to reduce flex.

Are these newer rear bearing blocks in stores in Europe? I saw that they were used at the Euro B Championships and provided by Serpent.

Looking at this article by Salven on MyTSN, has anybody seen or used this modified sideplate, other than Salven or Karl-Heinz. It is supposed to improve acceleration.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=11748
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Old 07-08-2006, 01:30 PM   #1357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kendall
Are these newer rear bearing blocks in stores in Europe? I saw that they were used at the Euro B Championships and provided by Serpent.
For what I've heard, the bearing blocks are not good yet, because the hole in which the "middle" bearing is hold, is to large and doesn't hold the bearing.....
"Glueing" it with treadlock is also not really working......

But again, this is what I've heard, maybe it was just 1 of those components this guy bought, he was just not lucky with.......

Quote:
Looking at this article by Salven on MyTSN, has anybody seen or used this modified sideplate, other than Salven or Karl-Heinz. It is supposed to improve acceleration.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=11748
I can't really believe a modification like that improves the acceleration, but it will make the car stiffer......
Don't really know if it's available yet......

I do know that Serpent is testing new components for the 960, so maybe a new range of optional parts will come out in the near future.....

Also, the motonica car has a stiffener like this seen on the 960.....
http://www.rcinfos.com/2006/2006_04_...otonica_31.jpg
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Old 07-09-2006, 01:55 PM   #1358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kendall
Looking at this article by Salven on MyTSN, has anybody seen or used this modified sideplate, other than Salven or Karl-Heinz. It is supposed to improve acceleration.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=11748
in this article Salven mentions a relationship between rear traction and adding shim on the outside of the front steering block.

does anyone know how this comares to increased track width?

at first glance i would think that the axle should be shimmed to set an optimal freeplay between the axle and steering block, then adjust track width by adjusting the pivot screws.
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Old 07-09-2006, 02:51 PM   #1359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avs
in this article Salven mentions a relationship between rear traction and adding shim on the outside of the front steering block.

does anyone know how this comares to increased track width?

at first glance i would think that the axle should be shimmed to set an optimal freeplay between the axle and steering block, then adjust track width by adjusting the pivot screws.

since i read this article,i've never understand where he puts the shim...it's in english and some time some technical words are difficult to translate
and as AVS said,track width is adjusted with pivot screw...i really don't understand what Salven have done...

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Old 07-09-2006, 03:40 PM   #1360
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Been on vacation the last couple of weeks...what the heck did I miss. So what's the deal with these new bearing blocks......3 bearings? WHAT? Also that pic of the front axle that Salven added shims to......the pics DO NOT show what the article is talking about. I agree with the last post....I can only assume h added more shims to get the play out.....and that added traction!!
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Old 07-10-2006, 06:09 AM   #1361
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I believe adding shims and increasing track width is the same thing in this circumstance. With the approximately 1mm of shims added to the outside of the front bearing blocks (outside being the key), you've effectively spaced the wheel and additional 2mm's wider than without the shims, or the shims on the inside of the bearing blocks.

This additional 2mm of shims (1mm for the left and the right) will have the same effect as unscrewing the pivot balls to widen the front track width..

At the end of the day either way get's a front end that is wider (less front grip, more rear grip).
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Old 07-10-2006, 06:31 AM   #1362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nefastseven
since i read this article,i've never understand where he puts the shim...it's in english and some time some technical words are difficult to translate
and as AVS said,track width is adjusted with pivot screw...i really don't understand what Salven have done...

Correct! Add 1 or 2 sims at the inside and 3 at the outside. Ajusting the pivot screws to this width will weaken the structure!
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Old 07-10-2006, 06:35 AM   #1363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
For what I've heard, the bearing blocks are not good yet, because the hole in which the "middle" bearing is hold, is to large and doesn't hold the bearing.....
"Glueing" it with treadlock is also not really working......
You can put an additional Pully-holder in place to lock the bearing.

Holder

Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
I do know that Serpent is testing new components for the 960, so maybe a new range of optional parts will come out in the near future.....
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Old 07-10-2006, 07:01 AM   #1364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMSorber
You can put an additional Pully-holder in place to lock the bearing.
I've seen that now on your car, didn't knew if there was space for that, but there is....

Also the modification you have on the stabi connection with the rear under arm, I saw the "production version" of this arm on Jordy's car, and also a modification to make this new rear under arm stronger.
He also had the new side stiffener behind the engine.....
A little bit different as can be seen on mytsn
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=11748&psid=7
But he had it......
It's so nice to be so close to the fire....
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:15 AM   #1365
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Widening trackwidth using pivoting out does not the same with shimming the wheels away from its knuckle (actually this is not widening trackwith but the radius angle instead). Gokart front end is what he reffering to. It is very noticable in handling (more aggresive steering cutting corners). The shims on that picture (red line pointing to) is 3 on the outside (plus that conical shims from 950r) and 3 inside.
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