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Old 07-03-2006, 09:07 PM   #1336
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Seabass

I agree with the downstop suggestion. You should change the rear down stops to 8 or 9. Also make sure your car's track width is 262 to 264 in the rear. Rear track width has helped my car settle down in the corners. Good luck.

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Old 07-04-2006, 02:00 AM   #1337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulltooth
Seabass

I agree with the downstop suggestion. You should change the rear down stops to 8 or 9. Also make sure your car's track width is 262 to 264 in the rear. Rear track width has helped my car settle down in the corners. Good luck.

Bulltooth
The same effect can also be made by WOS on the front
By the way, did nobody ever noticed that the ARB at the rear is always flat?
What could you do about improving that
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Last edited by PMSorber; 07-04-2006 at 04:28 AM.
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:48 AM   #1338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darint
Thanks, I noticed the same challenge in balancing my 960. One thought for you though, if you put the lead on the outside of your receiver box, it will be further away from the centerline of the car, and you can use less weight to provide the same balance. It's kinda of a "balancing" act :-) to get a good static balance and getting the car close to minimum weight rule :-)
That`s true .. pic below is using 70gr in total on R side..
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:51 AM   #1339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perez
Do you guys know what shock oils are equivilant to serpent..like Associated and Mugen ?
35 = 600.. the newer bottle has additional number for its equivalent
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Old 07-04-2006, 12:29 PM   #1340
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Default Spring Keeper problem - check your car!

If your car acts like it is tweaked and you can't find the problem you need to check the spring keeper on the shock absorber.

I have never had this happen before but my shock end pushed the center out of the spring keeper on one of the rear shocks. Visually the car appeared normal but on the track it acted very tweaked.
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Old 07-04-2006, 01:33 PM   #1341
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Default spring keeper pictures

Here is what it looks like.
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Serpent 960....-spring-keeper-bottom.jpg   Serpent 960....-spring-keeper-top.jpg  
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Old 07-05-2006, 01:07 AM   #1342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PMSorber
More stability.

With the shocks down damper movement is minimized as well as the spring (less movement less reaction resulting in a stiff damper system). In general we see that it does not ad positive responce on curvey tracks. With the damper fully up (3rd position) you introduce more damper movement and more spring effect. What we see now is that this generates a jumpy car on tracks with high speed hairpins.
yeah right!!!

never had maths at highschool?
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Old 07-05-2006, 02:40 AM   #1343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team novarossi
yeah right!!!

never had maths at highschool?
I at least had Not everything can be solved theoretical, sometimes there are also external influences Peter. Just wait and see what will come available
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Old 07-05-2006, 06:07 AM   #1344
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You have to purschase the new back-bearingblocks, they come with 3 shaft bearings to reduce flex.
What is the part number for the new blocks with twin bearings in them ?

Two of the guys here have broken their main shaft and I would rather fix mine before it does break.
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Old 07-05-2006, 12:35 PM   #1345
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Default new front belt tensioner 960

Even with the eccentric bearing holders set to the tightest position I was still stripping front belts. Sometimes I could get 2 races from a belt and sometimes it was 2 belts per race. This situation was both expensive and frustrating due to having to drop out of races with an undriveable car.

One of the guys I race with made this front belt tensioner and I am now on race 6 on the same front belt and it looks great. I have attached some thumbnails showing the tensioner on my car.

There are now 2 cars running this tensioner and both of us no longer have any problem with short front belt life.

I have ordered the parts to make more of these but no price has been decided on yet. Let me know if you are interested in getting one for your car.
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Serpent 960....-belt-tensioner-1.jpg   Serpent 960....-belt-tensioner-2.jpg  
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Old 07-05-2006, 09:56 PM   #1346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob The Builder
What is the part number for the new blocks with twin bearings in them ?

Two of the guys here have broken their main shaft and I would rather fix mine before it does break.
Bob, the shafts that broke, were they the old shaft with two flats spots on the shaft or were they the new shaft with only a single flat spot?

In the 960 ref guide:

903113 Bearing block RR L
903114 Bearing block RR R

Which one has to be replaced to get the 3 bearing setup?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-06-2006, 02:38 AM   #1347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
Bob, the shafts that broke, were they the old shaft with two flats spots on the shaft or were they the new shaft with only a single flat spot?

In the 960 ref guide:

903113 Bearing block RR L
903114 Bearing block RR R

Which one has to be replaced to get the 3 bearing setup?

Thanks in advance.
The 903113 Bearing block RR L. But I would order both due to a more stiffer plastic compound.
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Old 07-06-2006, 02:51 AM   #1348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winner's Circle
Even with the eccentric bearing holders set to the tightest position I was still stripping front belts. Sometimes I could get 2 races from a belt and sometimes it was 2 belts per race. This situation was both expensive and frustrating due to having to drop out of races with an undriveable car.

One of the guys I race with made this front belt tensioner and I am now on race 6 on the same front belt and it looks great. I have attached some thumbnails showing the tensioner on my car.

There are now 2 cars running this tensioner and both of us no longer have any problem with short front belt life.

I have ordered the parts to make more of these but no price has been decided on yet. Let me know if you are interested in getting one for your car.
Nice job!....
I also wonder why your solution is not standard in the cars.....

With alu. pulleys the change of snapping a belt increases....
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:18 AM   #1349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winner's Circle
Even with the eccentric bearing holders set to the tightest position I was still stripping front belts. Sometimes I could get 2 races from a belt and sometimes it was 2 belts per race. This situation was both expensive and frustrating due to having to drop out of races with an undriveable car.

One of the guys I race with made this front belt tensioner and I am now on race 6 on the same front belt and it looks great. I have attached some thumbnails showing the tensioner on my car.

There are now 2 cars running this tensioner and both of us no longer have any problem with short front belt life.

I have ordered the parts to make more of these but no price has been decided on yet. Let me know if you are interested in getting one for your car.
Never had this problem. We alway's put the eccentric holder in the middle position but combined with a alu middle-shaft-mount.
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:48 AM   #1350
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Quote:
Bob, the shafts that broke, were they the old shaft with two flats spots on the shaft or were they the new shaft with only a single flat spot?
One was definately the two flat shaft - not sure about the other yet - will find out at the weekend.

Quote:
The 903113 Bearing block RR L. But I would order both due to a more stiffer plastic compound.
Are the new parts the same number as the old ones or have they used a new number ?
If they have used the same number - how do you tell the latest ones before you open the packet ?

Is the third bearing the same size as the other mainshaft bearings ?
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