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Old 05-20-2008, 09:14 PM   #2941
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Hi Paolo,
Would you mind to clarify the difference between OS1 and OS2. Is there any advantages of them. For OS2, what I found is the distance between the ball bearing is shorter.
For the new steering block, what is the condition to use the 2 different offset.
These information is very useful for our setup but haven't mention in the set up manual.
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:22 PM   #2942
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Hi, I'm wondering the New IDM Power Clutch System able to be used in the 960-08

Could you guys would give me some advise.

Thanks
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:02 AM   #2943
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i just found out today that the Kyosho M3 fuel tank can be used in 960, dimension and height wise.
This is proabably a good news as i see so many new 08's fuel tank, people are suffering insufficient pressure.
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Old 05-24-2008, 12:32 PM   #2944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipws View Post
Hi Paolo,
Would you mind to clarify the difference between OS1 and OS2. Is there any advantages of them. For OS2, what I found is the distance between the ball bearing is shorter.
For the new steering block, what is the condition to use the 2 different offset.
These information is very useful for our setup but haven't mention in the set up manual.
Hi IPWS, no problem. OS1 is when you use Serpent Style wheels and OS2 is when you use Mugen/Kyosho Style wheels. Both front and rear offset are different. The cool thing is that you can use both and try wich one works better for you depending on track conditions, driving style. In the front end, all the plastics are the same, the only difference is the wheel axle and clips assembly. In the rear, the uprigths (you are rigth distance of ball bearings is shorter)rear wheels axles and clips are different. Performance wise it depends on many factors, as i mention before. Most of the italians, spanish and French drivers like OS1, most of northern European drivers like OS2. Asian drivers are like 50/50.
About the steering blocks, they are made in a way where basically you can swtich left with rigth and vice-versa. The King pin position is different and you have different results. I like to drive the #2 in the rigth and trhe #1 in the left.
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Old 05-24-2008, 12:34 PM   #2945
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Originally Posted by choisan View Post
i just found out today that the Kyosho M3 fuel tank can be used in 960, dimension and height wise.
This is proabably a good news as i see so many new 08's fuel tank, people are suffering insufficient pressure.
What you mean about insufficient pressure? 08 Thanks in my opinion, are the best thanks ever made by Serpent. We have absolutely no leaking problem, oring assembly is perfect and material is a lot stonger than before.

So please, advise if you have had any problem
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Old 05-24-2008, 01:03 PM   #2946
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Latest on Clutch Setup

I got a pm from a driver in Singapore asking about clutch setup. I told him that i was willing to answer here, in the thread, just because i felt that maybe more people could take advantage of the information.

So here is how we have being using our clutch lately. I thinks this setup has a really large sweet spot. DJ drove his car for the first time last weekend, and even if we have totally different driving styles, after testing different solutions, he agree that this setup is really good for him too.

So this is what you need:

Flyweigth 903199: Installed to pivot in the pin (lead way), no set screw added (it is easy to knoe where the set screw goes, the hole is chanfered)
Support plate 903212: Very importnat to use with this setup, in order to avoid the fly weigths to fly away.
Clutch pad Yellow 6587N or Red 903239: I like both and result is very similar. Red shoe last little longer.
Spring 909520: this is the hard black one long.

And you set it like this:

So you use all the above, with a preload of the spring at 1.6mm (from clutch nut to spring collar) Then on the clutch bell, you are going to use a gap of 0.8mm and end play of 0.2 to 0.3mm.

Fpr people that like really agrressive clutch and drives full punch, will need to increase the gap to 0.9mm to 1.0mm. Don't worry, flyweigths will stay in place. This is the reason why we use it pivoting and we have the large support plate.

On a side note:
Even if clutch is working perfectly, all the clutch parts work under extreme conditions and have wear. I am not talking only about the bearings, wich for sure need special attention and need to be checked and service at least every hour, but also flyweigth, clutch pad, spring and pressure plate. Flyweigth are something that i have seeing myself and most of the people paying the less attention. They do wear, and eventually brake. The whole gets bigger and overtime make the clutch is not working properly anymore (car is not crips anymore, is not like bugging but is not perfect)

I reccomend to check from time to time also this components. Remember that he clutch is one of the main things in your car. An extremely expensive and powerfull engine without a good clutch will work and look like an RTR (and most likely, you are going to fry the engine!!)

Hope this info can help and don't hesitate to ask.

Happy Memorial Weekend
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Old 05-24-2008, 06:46 PM   #2947
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Hi Paolo,
Thank you very much!

Is there any performance difference between OS1 and OS2? ( e.g. OS2 is more push so more suitable for high traction circuit.....) How can we judge when to use OS1 and when to use OS2?

For the front steering block. What is the difference in handeling for #1 on left or #2 on left?
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:17 PM   #2948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paolo M View Post
What you mean about insufficient pressure? 08 Thanks in my opinion, are the best thanks ever made by Serpent. We have absolutely no leaking problem, oring assembly is perfect and material is a lot stonger than before.

So please, advise if you have had any problem
Thanks Paolo, then 2 of my friends are pretty bad luck in my country. They did use back the non 08 "white" fuel tank, then issue was instantly solved. This is just my on-site experience there.
I am not aware of any after sales service, is there really any from Serpent? Of course, i have never heard too much of any from other brands as well.
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:58 PM   #2949
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hey guys, building a 960 08, and have come to a stop. I'm up to attatching the brake pads to the plate. It says in the manual to use the supplied double sided tape. Does anyone know what bag this is meant to be in, or what it looks like? cant seem to find it.


thanks
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:07 PM   #2950
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hey guys, building a 960 08, and have come to a stop. I'm up to attatching the brake pads to the plate. It says in the manual to use the supplied double sided tape. Does anyone know what bag this is meant to be in, or what it looks like? cant seem to find it.


thanks
Don't use double sided tape on the brake pads, I suggest you glue it on using JB weld or Shoe Goo, that way it will bond well with the metal backing plate.

Also one thing to be carefull at and I saw this happen all the time, when installing the nipple on the fuel tank use the supplied tool and make sure you don't overtighten the nipple, if not it will strip the hole on the plastic tank.
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:53 PM   #2951
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze View Post
Don't use double sided tape on the brake pads, I suggest you glue it on using JB weld or Shoe Goo, that way it will bond well with the metal backing plate.

Also one thing to be carefull at and I saw this happen all the time, when installing the nipple on the fuel tank use the supplied tool and make sure you don't overtighten the nipple, if not it will strip the hole on the plastic tank.
Yeah, Ill just use JP weld. I thought double sided tape seemed a bit weird..

thanks for the quick reply.

Ryan.

Oh, also does anyone know if the ball ends that are attatched to the steering ackerman are meant to bind with the front pulley? the left hand side tie rod end "just" nicks the edge of the one way pulley, I angled the ball end up a tiny bit and it just clears it now..but it seems very close?

.. cool looking car so far though
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Old 05-28-2008, 02:53 AM   #2952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choisan View Post
I am not aware of any after sales service, is there really any from Serpent? Of course, i have never heard too much of any from other brands as well.
Serpent has the best after sale service there is....
I'm sorry the other brands don't have it
but Serpent has...
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Old 05-28-2008, 03:18 AM   #2953
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Oh, also does anyone know if the ball ends that are attatched to the steering ackerman are meant to bind with the front pulley? the left hand side tie rod end "just" nicks the edge of the one way pulley, I angled the ball end up a tiny bit and it just clears it now..but it seems very close?
http://www.serpent.com/product/903211

There are 4 ackerman settings, and he needs to use the "front-outside" one....
The "front-inside" one is the one I use, and as far as I know it is the one normally used....
Here, check some set-ups from the teamdrivers....
http://www.serpent.com/racing/setups/

But I agree, I've heard about this problem, maybe you could have also took some material away from the ball ends, with a knife...
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Old 06-04-2008, 09:31 PM   #2954
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It seems that I can not get enough rear belt tension on my 960, even with the rear bearing eccentrics adjusted for maximum tension.

The belt is fairly new without even a single missing tooth.

It's hard to know for sure if it's skipping during driving, but if I apply the brakes even the slightest bit and turn the rear wheels slowly, the belt does skip. I'm sure that the torque due to driving is quite a bit greater than what I'm applying to cause the belt skipping.

Is it normal for the rear belt to stretch and need to be replaced due to stretch?

If so, is there a way to know when the belt needs to be replaced in a less subjective way? Or is there a good 'rule of thumb' for a replacement schedule (every gallon of fuel, or so many hours of track time, etc.).

On a similar note, what's the best (easiest) proceedure for getting the 2-speed shaft out for the purpose of changing a rear belt? It seems to me that there should be a way to take off E-clips and loosen set-screws and then just slide the shaft all the way out one way or the other, but I never seem to be able to loosen the set screw on the rear belt cog because it's covered by the plastic part. Am I missing something in the proceedure?

Thanks.
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Old 06-05-2008, 04:03 AM   #2955
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Originally Posted by Walt View Post
It seems that I can not get enough rear belt tension on my 960, even with the rear bearing eccentrics adjusted for maximum tension.

The belt is fairly new without even a single missing tooth.

It's hard to know for sure if it's skipping during driving, but if I apply the brakes even the slightest bit and turn the rear wheels slowly, the belt does skip. I'm sure that the torque due to driving is quite a bit greater than what I'm applying to cause the belt skipping.

Is it normal for the rear belt to stretch and need to be replaced due to stretch?

If so, is there a way to know when the belt needs to be replaced in a less subjective way? Or is there a good 'rule of thumb' for a replacement schedule (every gallon of fuel, or so many hours of track time, etc.).

On a similar note, what's the best (easiest) proceedure for getting the 2-speed shaft out for the purpose of changing a rear belt? It seems to me that there should be a way to take off E-clips and loosen set-screws and then just slide the shaft all the way out one way or the other, but I never seem to be able to loosen the set screw on the rear belt cog because it's covered by the plastic part. Am I missing something in the proceedure?

Thanks.
Walt,

My guess is that you have the eccentrics reversed. You have the right one on the left side a vise versa. Switch the eccentrics and the belt will be tight.
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