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Old 10-03-2005, 06:39 PM   #256
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Talking Tech Weight

Ghoppa, that's my concern. The cars dressed in stock form are already at or slightly under the weigh minimum of 2.250 grams (double check that number 1/8th scale). That's with regular "heavy" Nimh batteries. So, my practice and club racing wouldn't be at "race" weight, so at larger events I'd need to add weight to pass tech, which isn't fun.. I ran into that problem with the gas tank, which is oversized too.. You know what a foot less fuel tubing does to your fuel mixture! :-) Nothing like being at a big race and changing what you've always done and are used to to throw a wrench in your game...

Also, that much weight in the center of the chassis as close to the ground as possible, is about were I'd want it.. Think of the different reaction to chassis changes and roll centers if you have to add weight else where for a race to reach minimum anywhere other than than middle? Could throw off the "balance" of the car front to back and side to side, talk about your tweak.. Then again, after rereading the post I maybe a little detail orientated :-) If it's just playing around - knock yourself out!
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Old 10-03-2005, 07:30 PM   #257
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What LiPo cells did you use?

I agree on the weight issue out of the box the car is light, but the convience factor sure is nice, and being able to run the tank low.
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Old 10-03-2005, 09:09 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
What LiPo cells did you use?

I agree on the weight issue out of the box the car is light, but the convience factor sure is nice, and being able to run the tank low.
Hey Aaron,

"agreed", but with Serpent "specifically" cutting a battery tray for 2/3 cells, I really think "we" can cut the weight down possibly with other factors "higher" on the car (i.e. - titanium screws " ("everything" above the chassis), hollow mid-shaft, hollow lay-shaft, running "no" roll bar, etc....) I just can't see "lightening" one of the most heaviest items on the car that has been stratigically placed on the lowest & most "center" part of the car.....Find other areas on the car that you can lighten "above" the chassis is what guys have always told me....

I can see the definate benefits of the "run" time w/ li-po batteries and all, but on "practice days", "what's" the big deal about charging your batteries???? Now if you can honestly tell me that you consistantly run more than a "FULL" hour a day on your car on "Practice" days, the all the power to ya'....... and as far as Race Day's, I know for a fact that running a 1400 maH receiver pack with "spektrum" and 2 digital receivers I still will have "ample" enough "juice" to run a 60 minute A-Main........then I have no worries....

I should have my car built, set-up and running in a week......just getting ready for the Paris Race here in Vegas.....

any of you guys try the new RB 2017 & 2018 pipes yet (3 chamber pipes?????)

also, how bout clutch set-ups?????? I wanna try a set of "drilled" shoes, but is it a "big" factor if I do NOT get the "holes" exactly in the same place(s)????






I can't wait.....
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:01 PM   #259
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Run time has not been to much of a problem for me with a 1400 pack. I've been out every weekend testing the car and have been able to run all day without having to recharge the battery.
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Old 10-04-2005, 02:30 PM   #260
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I heard that if you lighten the clutch weights that the clutch can have a hard time keeping the shoe against the bell and may make it inconsistent.I race with Aaron and he is one of the fastest drivers around So I am sure that if you go with his advice your car will be better.
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Old 10-04-2005, 05:49 PM   #261
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I am probably just paranoid about run time after running the old little pack for so long, and yes I have been known to be out there practicing beyond my old reciever pack.

Here are a couple setups on the clutch:

Setup 1.

Std pivoting flyweights with 2 extra holes (4mm), Serpent hard spring, yellow pad, 1.7mm preload on nut and 0.7mm total gap

Setup 2.

Yellow pivoting clock wise fly weights (std flyweights pivots in the same direction as the flywheel. You need to take a clutch shoe, and cut it in order to make it pivot in the opposite side) with 2 3mm holes, Mugen extra hard spring, 1.5mm preload on the nut and 0.7 to 0.8 total bell play. Or the serpent hard spring, set as mentioned above.

A trick to drilling the flyweights out is to use and old pressure plate as a jig, and if your cutting the yellow shoe for fly weights, drill the holes first, then cut the fly weight to length. The home made flyweights should be close to being symetrical, but if the holes aren't perfect, it should still work fine.
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Old 10-04-2005, 11:03 PM   #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
I am probably just paranoid about run time after running the old little pack for so long, and yes I have been known to be out there practicing beyond my old reciever pack.

Here are a couple setups on the clutch:

Setup 1.

Std pivoting flyweights with 2 extra holes (4mm), Serpent hard spring, yellow pad, 1.7mm preload on nut and 0.7mm total gap

Setup 2.

Yellow pivoting clock wise fly weights (std flyweights pivots in the same direction as the flywheel. You need to take a clutch shoe, and cut it in order to make it pivot in the opposite side) with 2 3mm holes, Mugen extra hard spring, 1.5mm preload on the nut and 0.7 to 0.8 total bell play. Or the serpent hard spring, set as mentioned above.

A trick to drilling the flyweights out is to use and old pressure plate as a jig, and if your cutting the yellow shoe for fly weights, drill the holes first, then cut the fly weight to length. The home made flyweights should be close to being symetrical, but if the holes aren't perfect, it should still work fine.
Aaron,

thanks for the tips, I'll give it a try....your advice will definately give me a jump start in understanding Serpent Clutches....


I also have another question: Have any of you experienced the rear layshaft not having the "flatspot" that the brake pulley grub screw "rides on" isn't machined far enough to the "passenger side" in order to have the Rear Belt "ride" 100% on the Pulley's??????? My belt is approx. 95% on, and about 1.5mm off the rear pulley because of this....

I checked (and double & triple checked) to make sure I assembled the rear "bulkhead" assembly correctly, but it all stems to the fact that the "flatspot" is too much towards the middle and not more to the "right" of the shaft....

just my observations, but I am Truly impressed with Serpent's attention to detail & workmanship!!!!!!
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Old 10-05-2005, 05:36 AM   #263
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Make sure you are using the correct flats, on the new shaft there are flats on both sides, it used to be if you guessed the wrong way, you would have to disassemble the enitre rear end, and flip the layshaft over, now there is no need to flip it over, just rotate it 180 degrees. I have to look at my car again, but I believe mine to be all the way over to one side of the flats, from memory to the passenger side. I also had to put a shim behind the two speed bell to take some excessive lash out of the system. I am using an alum pully on the long belt side, so I didn't post this earlier because that will effect the lash.

I am also going to drill a hole in my small rear pully so I can get to the set screw easily, I have had it come loose off the layshaft once already, and you have to take the entire rear end apart to get to it because the rear end is narrower now.
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Old 10-05-2005, 05:40 AM   #264
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Scott -

I have ~+1.5mm clearance between my belt and the servo saver, I am using the alum layshaft mount and a delta small pulley, my belt is running to the drivers side of the front pully on the one way, you may have to hog out your front layshaft mount to get the belt/pulley to ride that far over to the driverside so it doesn't rub the servo saver.
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Old 10-05-2005, 09:02 AM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_buran
Scott -

I have ~+1.5mm clearance between my belt and the servo saver, I am using the alum layshaft mount and a delta small pulley, my belt is running to the drivers side of the front pully on the one way, you may have to hog out your front layshaft mount to get the belt/pulley to ride that far over to the driverside so it doesn't rub the servo saver.
I'll give it a try...thanks Aaron...
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Old 10-09-2005, 10:43 PM   #266
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like to see the set-up from the world championship from the serpent team.

any infor, much appreciated.
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Old 10-09-2005, 11:22 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitracer
like to see the set-up from the world championship from the serpent team.

any infor, much appreciated.
I have not seen any set-ups from the worlds yet,but you can find Paolo Morganti's set-up from Ft. Myers here..

http://www.mytsn.com/products/downlds.asp?prid=4090
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Old 10-10-2005, 02:41 AM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Verano
I have not seen any set-ups from the worlds yet,but you can find Paolo Morganti's set-up from Ft. Myers here..

http://www.mytsn.com/products/downlds.asp?prid=4090
thanks.
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Old 10-10-2005, 07:30 AM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitracer
thanks.
No problem.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:12 PM   #270
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Default 960 DONE

my boyfriends 960 is done,now comes the engine....we are going to put the new novarossi plus 21-3 in it.....pics will come later kitty
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