Kyosho Evolva 2005
#181
Tech Master
Originally Posted by darkangel
Hope someone here can help.
I'm going through a used Delta that I'm converting to 05 specs. I'm getting a bind (rear of the car) on the right side after attaching the body mount. I've tried to open up the holes in the mount like Sal Difazio suggested, but no dice. The left side works nice and free but not the right side. Any other suggestions?
I'm going through a used Delta that I'm converting to 05 specs. I'm getting a bind (rear of the car) on the right side after attaching the body mount. I've tried to open up the holes in the mount like Sal Difazio suggested, but no dice. The left side works nice and free but not the right side. Any other suggestions?
The bind only appears when the body support is attached? If that is the case, disconnect the left side - does the bind disappear?
#183
Tech Adept
yes the bind disappears with the left side unattached. very frustrating. what's the fix.
#185
Tech Master
Originally Posted by darkangel
yes the bind disappears with the left side unattached. very frustrating. what's the fix.
#186
Tech Adept
thanks. I'll try to shave/ream a little more tonight.
Right now it's better than it was.
Right now it's better than it was.
#188
ha ogreasurda are you getting one ? looks like a race ready package.
#190
Originally Posted by captian
ha ogreasurda are you getting one ? looks like a race ready package.
#191
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
bearings
..Gentlemen.
I'm in the process of building the car, and was wondering about bearings. Should I pop off the metal sheild, clean out all of the grease and re-lube with light weight bearing oil?
I'm asking this because the bearings feel a little 'heavy'.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
I'm in the process of building the car, and was wondering about bearings. Should I pop off the metal sheild, clean out all of the grease and re-lube with light weight bearing oil?
I'm asking this because the bearings feel a little 'heavy'.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
#192
Originally Posted by bsmooth
..Gentlemen.
I'm in the process of building the car, and was wondering about bearings. Should I pop off the metal sheild, clean out all of the grease and re-lube with light weight bearing oil?
I'm asking this because the bearings feel a little 'heavy'.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
I'm in the process of building the car, and was wondering about bearings. Should I pop off the metal sheild, clean out all of the grease and re-lube with light weight bearing oil?
I'm asking this because the bearings feel a little 'heavy'.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
#193
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
radio set up tip
Guys,
Here's something interesting that a buddy and I stumbled across recently that I want to share. I don't use dual rate very much, but my buddy does and discovered a what appeared to be a problem. When turning his d/r down, he found that the end points of the steering limits did not follow proportionally. For instance, if a 12th scale car could turn 2 foot circles at max steering in both directions and then you were to turn the d/r down, you might find that the car might turn a 3 foot circle one way and 4 foot circle the other direction.
Well this seemed like an obvious flaw in the radio. Who would want non-proportional side to side d/r like that? I have always found that when I set my radio up that my end points are not always the same side to side (90% vs 75%), but once set, the car always acted correctly. So thinking this was odd, I thought that I would ask our radio control Team Manager this question.
It turns out, that if you center a servo with "trim" to achieve the mechanical center that you are looking for in your servo arm/saver... you will have uneven end points and this problem will effect the way your d/r acts as you reduce it!
The correct way to set up your servo is to find the least amount of off center to mount your arm/saver and correct it with "sub-trim" to the nearest amount of mechanical center that you can. But first, you must make sure that your steering trim is at "zero". Make sure that your d/r is maxed out. Then set your epa's. You might find that your epa's are much closer percentage-wise then before. With any car, you will have to check all the steering links for equal lengths and a proper length steering rack link. Then use the "trim" to fine tune your car on the track. Now, your d/r will reduce proportionally correct all the way! Maybe as a rule, if you get steering trim more then 5% off of center, you may want to fix some of that through sub-trim. For some reason, the software that is in today's radios do not treat trim and sub-trim as the same, especially involving dual rate.
Check it out, it's worth a look!
Brian
Here's something interesting that a buddy and I stumbled across recently that I want to share. I don't use dual rate very much, but my buddy does and discovered a what appeared to be a problem. When turning his d/r down, he found that the end points of the steering limits did not follow proportionally. For instance, if a 12th scale car could turn 2 foot circles at max steering in both directions and then you were to turn the d/r down, you might find that the car might turn a 3 foot circle one way and 4 foot circle the other direction.
Well this seemed like an obvious flaw in the radio. Who would want non-proportional side to side d/r like that? I have always found that when I set my radio up that my end points are not always the same side to side (90% vs 75%), but once set, the car always acted correctly. So thinking this was odd, I thought that I would ask our radio control Team Manager this question.
It turns out, that if you center a servo with "trim" to achieve the mechanical center that you are looking for in your servo arm/saver... you will have uneven end points and this problem will effect the way your d/r acts as you reduce it!
The correct way to set up your servo is to find the least amount of off center to mount your arm/saver and correct it with "sub-trim" to the nearest amount of mechanical center that you can. But first, you must make sure that your steering trim is at "zero". Make sure that your d/r is maxed out. Then set your epa's. You might find that your epa's are much closer percentage-wise then before. With any car, you will have to check all the steering links for equal lengths and a proper length steering rack link. Then use the "trim" to fine tune your car on the track. Now, your d/r will reduce proportionally correct all the way! Maybe as a rule, if you get steering trim more then 5% off of center, you may want to fix some of that through sub-trim. For some reason, the software that is in today's radios do not treat trim and sub-trim as the same, especially involving dual rate.
Check it out, it's worth a look!
Brian
#194
I have one HUGE issue with my Evolva. I have changed in a weekend 3 front belt.It cut them off. I have changed pulley and the problem still exists.I also have problem with my second gear.The car in the air put the second gear exactly when i want but in the track there is no 2nd gear.I have this problem for 1 month i have done infinity changes to the 2nd gear.My low gear is very nice(I have fixed anso the centax.).Like the first gear is out 40000 rpm and cannot change onto 2nd gear.Some times it changes gear exactly as in was in the air but when is in the stage ops the 2nd is lost. Can any one please help me...PLeaseeeeee!!!!!
Sorry for the huge mail..
Sorry for the huge mail..
#195
Tech Master
Originally Posted by nikoskar
I have one HUGE issue with my Evolva. I have changed in a weekend 3 front belt.It cut them off. I have changed pulley and the problem still exists.I also have problem with my second gear.The car in the air put the second gear exactly when i want but in the track there is no 2nd gear.I have this problem for 1 month i have done infinity changes to the 2nd gear.My low gear is very nice(I have fixed anso the centax.).Like the first gear is out 40000 rpm and cannot change onto 2nd gear.Some times it changes gear exactly as in was in the air but when is in the stage ops the 2nd is lost. Can any one please help me...PLeaseeeeee!!!!!
Sorry for the huge mail..
Sorry for the huge mail..
Your two speed should work well - Here are some items to check: A) be sure to check that the first and second gears aren't tight and binding. There should be .008" of clearance between FM328-1 and FM 539. B) across the entire two speed shaft, there should be .005" play. Or, push the two speed shaft, in and out - the entire assembly should have play - not too tight. C) Your air gap should be minimal - between the second gear housing and the two speed shoes - no contact - but, damn close - use the "small set-screw" to set - evenly top and bottom. D) Bottom out your adjusting spring (FM423) - now back both out 2.25 turns. You should be close.
Good Luck