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Old 10-07-2001, 10:05 PM   #46
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ok tell me how this sounds. first when you say 10% and 20% it means the nitro content right? 10% has les nitro and more lubrication then 20% normaly i would recomend 10% on really tired engines that are about ready to die or need rebuilding.

20% seems to be the norm and i think this is what engine manufactures design the engine to run on. but what about this?

if you run an engine fatter (richer) more fuel goes threw the engine right? so its taking in more fuel then it can burn. SO what if you run that same setting with 30% if there is more nitro then couldnt you in a sence run the engine a little fatter then with 20% and get that same power? more nitro means a better burn but you are feeding in more fuel. THATS why they say you need to re shim the deck hight because more fuel is comming in and it need more space in the combustion chamber to compensate.

sound like crap?
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Old 10-08-2001, 11:08 AM   #47
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Angry RB X12 Problems!

I have an RB X12 in my V-One R. For the last couple of weeks I have been having problems getting it started. When I go to start it on my starter box usually the piston will get stuck in the sleeve and I will have to pry the piston back down by taking a screw driver to the flywheel. I have about a gallon through the engine now and is still giving me problems. When I do get it started the engine kicks but! I'm really fustrated with it right now because I couldn't get it started for my A-Main race yesterday.

Somebody please help me out!
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Old 10-08-2001, 10:12 PM   #48
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warm it up with a hair dryer then put it on the starter box. this should stop the piston sticking. or what you could do, which is what i did a few times, is, if you have a public toilet in the vicinities of the track, (don't laugh) warm the heatsink up with one of those hot air hand dryers..... AY! STOP LAUGHING IT WORKS!
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Old 10-09-2001, 03:57 PM   #49
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Angry

I can get the piston free by prying the flywheel with a screw driver. It does this every time though. Is there something that I can do to my engine so this wont happen anymore?
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Old 10-09-2001, 06:22 PM   #50
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thats a good picture tha car doesnt even look real its such a good shot.
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Old 10-14-2001, 04:47 AM   #51
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is that engine new? if it is..i think a few more tanks for break in should free up the piston!!
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Old 10-14-2001, 05:15 AM   #52
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Default Re: Re: RB X12 Problems!

Quote:
Originally posted by ozzyNEOdriver
warm it up with a hair dryer then put it on the starter box. this should stop the piston sticking. or what you could do, which is what i did a few times, is, if you have a public toilet in the vicinities of the track, (don't laugh) warm the heatsink up with one of those hot air hand dryers..... AY! STOP LAUGHING IT WORKS!
I did laugh !!
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Old 10-14-2001, 05:34 AM   #53
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but it works....things expand when heated...maybe that should free up the piston....ot you know what else you could do...use those tire warmers to warm up the engine!

that should work too!!
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Old 10-14-2001, 05:40 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by Disaster999
but it works....things expand when heated...maybe that should free up the piston....ot you know what else you could do...use those tire warmers to warm up the engine!

that should work too!!
It does make more sense to bring a tire warmer then a hair driver to the track side !
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Old 10-14-2001, 06:03 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally posted by FACTION95Si
I can get the piston free by prying the flywheel with a screw driver. It does this every time though. Is there something that I can do to my engine so this wont happen anymore?
Hey do you know that the sleeve is machined slightly tapered? Correct me if I'm wrong but I read this somewhere. That's why for new engines, the piston gets "stuck" at the TDE(Top Dead End) at times. So that's why you shouldn't just pry the thing... Heating the engine should solve the problem...

If your engine is new, probably you've not run it in enough...

Well as for heating it up in the toliet under the dryer... Think in time to come, there'll be "No Cars Allowed" at the doors!
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Old 10-14-2001, 07:00 AM   #56
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Quoted from RB concept forum. This is a reply from Rody Reom of RB.

I have heard of this problem a few times now and did not consider this as a real problem but it seems that it is for some of you...
Now what probaly happens is that when the piston/liner combination is run-in the top-inside of the sleeve is very polished and the oil which is normally between the piston and liner is squezed out because there are now pores anymore.
Normally there are some pores in the piston where the oil sits but due to the small piston this becomes difficult to realize.

It could also be that you have run your engine totally empty(out of fuel) which makes it more dry inside too and so the oil contents in the engine is low.

It could also be that the fuel you use has a lot of castrol which makes this also happen.

I have no real solution for you then to be patient, once the engine will get older(wear-out) the problem should dissapear, untill then your starterbox and starting need to be flawless and without hesitating.

Will try to see if we can find a technical solution for this without loosing the initial compression of the engines.
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Old 10-14-2001, 09:05 PM   #57
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humm....are they saying that they have engineering problems with the engines...or are they blaming it on something else???
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Old 10-14-2001, 10:38 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally posted by Disaster999
humm....are they saying that they have engineering problems with the engines...or are they blaming it on something else???
Thats the Way I See it (Engineering)
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Old 10-15-2001, 10:22 AM   #59
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i think so...cuz....the sleeve and piston should be a bit looser then when it came out of the box after brake in...its either you didnt break in long enough...or theres some engineering problem!
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Old 10-15-2001, 10:29 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally posted by Disaster999
i think so...cuz....the sleeve and piston should be a bit looser then when it came out of the box after brake in...its either you didnt break in long enough...or theres some engineering problem!
what Rody said is that after you run in the piston sleeve, they become almost absolute match that make perfect seal for any thing between the piston and sleeve even "fuel/oil" and this causes the tight feel when you move the flywheel.
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