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Old 02-17-2005, 04:24 PM   #14656
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scott Fisher
If you want to go to the 16/19 conversion, you will need to buy a set of stock Mugen pulleys. This by the way is a conversion for the side belt. I tried the conversion and liked the car with the stock pulleys better. I do not have the excessive tire wear that many others have, but that could be because I try very hard not to slide the car. Either way if you want to try it, it is very easy. As I stated, buy a bag of the stock Mugen pulleys. Remove the front/side pulley and put it aside. Remove the rear 19 tooth pulley and put in on the front. Out of the bag of new pulleys, get the 16 tooth pulley and put it on the rear. You will have to also get the 19/16 belt which is shorter than the stock belt. You are ready to go. Quick and easy. I do not use any aftermarket parts on my MTX prospec and have managed to make the A main at the last two events here in Vegas. The car is quite good out of the box. The only thing I really want to get and have just been lazy is the Kaw 5th body post.
dont forget you need to run 4mm split front to rear tire
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Old 02-17-2005, 04:47 PM   #14657
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I'm starting to think it depends on the tire wear of the track. Ft. Myers had awesome traction and ultra low tire wear. The mugen guys were using stock pulley setup. I'm totally confused about it lately. I've been using a 23t front pulley lately. You only need a 2.5mm split and the rolling resistance is MUCH less. My local track is tough on tires. Stock setup eats rear tires. With the 23t up front, my wear stays relatively even.
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Old 02-17-2005, 05:42 PM   #14658
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My car was very fast and your right Team Mugen was running the stock setup and car.
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Old 02-17-2005, 11:34 PM   #14659
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I do not run that large of a tire split. While he certainly does not know everything, I had a long conversation with Robbie Collins regarding the tire split. He told me at that time that he does not run the 16/19 conversion. For the stock pulleys he told me he will run a 1.5mm split at the most. That is for the start of a 1 hour main. I have been using the stock pulley setup and start with a 1-1.5mm tire split. I have never used a split larger than 2mm. When I did try the 16/19 conversion, I ran a 2mm split and my tire wear stays even with both setups.
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:42 AM   #14660
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What is the best way to get more on power steering? Small tight track, running a Diff in the front, or should I run a one way. I like the diff because the track is small, and I need the brake.
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:52 AM   #14661
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Front caster all the way back ( more laydown ) gives you more steering on full / half throttle.
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Old 02-18-2005, 12:34 PM   #14662
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less front droop and or stiffer rear springs.
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:28 AM   #14663
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Hey, I've got question too : Right know my car is stable and quite okay to drive......., it doesn't spin or flip.

My question : why I feel the car is not perfectly "stick" to the road ?? It doesn't have "on rails" feeling in fast sweeper or fast straight.

Please give me some inputs how to achieve that and I will try your inputs one by one.

Thx.
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:35 AM   #14664
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Your car probably has too much rear traction. The rear end needs to slide a little to be fast.
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:08 AM   #14665
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Guys,

I was given a MTX-3 Prospec at the end of last summer but never got a chance to drive it since our racing program ends once winter comes along. Anyhow I finally got a chance to clean the car up this past weekend and I got to say impressive car the thought that went into is impressive can't wait to get a chance to drive it once the weather warms up. The only thing I didn't like about it was removing the rear diff. I am so used to my NTC3 where breaking the car apart is extremely easy.

But I do have a question what is a good general setup for this car on rubber tires. I will be running on smooth sealed asphalt with VHT.

Last edited by Number 11; 02-21-2005 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 02-21-2005, 11:33 AM   #14666
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Your car probably has too much rear traction. The rear end needs to slide a little to be fast.
What spring color, piston hole and oil weight do you suggest D ? for front and rear ?
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Old 02-21-2005, 01:53 PM   #14667
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I think I might have found setup info off the website I will try it out I hope this weekend if the weather holds up. Hopefully the setup works with rubber tires.
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Old 02-22-2005, 02:52 AM   #14668
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Default steering ackerman & rear block

hi....need confirmation regd. the steering ackerman...A is for quick steering, B medium steering and C slower than A & B..?

also rear blocks A more grip,B medium grip and C less grip?

thank u...
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Old 02-22-2005, 08:39 AM   #14669
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Default easy diff

Quote:
the only thing I didn't like about it was removing the rear diff. I am so used to my NTC3 where breaking the car apart is extremely easy.


the rear diff does come out fairly easy you take the rear brace off that is on top of the bulkhead, then remove the four screws under the chasis that holds the bulkhead and the two screws that are horizontal in the rear block. then the whole assembly comes right up, it takes two minutes then you can work on the diff. hope that helps good luck very good car Peter
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:27 AM   #14670
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Default Re: steering ackerman & rear block

Quote:
Originally posted by rcabj
hi....need confirmation regd. the steering ackerman...A is for quick steering, B medium steering and C slower than A & B..?

also rear blocks A more grip,B medium grip and C less grip?

thank u...
On the rear blocks: A = less rear traction B=Med. traction C=Most rear traction

Steer ackerman I almost always seem to go back to the C ackerman. I feel that it gets the car into the corner better. I tend to charge the corners a lot!
The B is standard and the A gives you the least amount of ackerman.
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