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Old 02-14-2005, 04:57 PM   #14641
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A,B,C rear block's what do they do when changing them my tracks are fast and smooth
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:22 PM   #14642
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The different rear blocks change the roll center. I guess to put it simply, the higher the traction/bigger sweeping turns the track has, use the A block to start with. Low traction etc go to the B or C. Starting with A gives less rear roll and transition (it keeps the car flatter).

IndyPhil: The Sirio EVO will fit just fine. If your local hobby shop will give you a Mugen X12 or any of the Novarossi's I would jump on that, but the Sirio is a good engine and for free it gets even better.
For parts depending on your budget I would go in this order:

Front uprights
CVD's (you don't need the entire setup, just the "bone". I bend the fronts sometimes. As somebody else said, you can just get rears and use them front or rear. One less part to keep and a shorter one will be slightly more difficult to bend.

Spur gears and belts ( especially the front belt)

Those are the parts that I find myself replacing the most.

After that I would get shock shafts. In 8 months of hard running here in Vegas (big high speed track) I have only slightly bent one camber link and I finally bent a pillow ball. Never blown the diff or damamged the one way. No trans probs (except spurs). Never even broke a rear upright. No bent steering stuff. No blown bearings ( I do change them every once in a while) I have broken the rear shock tower and broken the rear bulkeheads. If you don't flip the car you won't have that problem.
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Last edited by Scott Fisher; 02-14-2005 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:31 PM   #14643
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for me C block can make the car loose on corner exit but makes the car stable going in.
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:31 PM   #14644
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scott Fisher
The different rear blocks change the roll center. I guess to put it simply, the higher the traction/bigger sweeping turns the track has, use the A block to start with. Low traction etc go to the B or C. Starting with A gives less rear roll and transition (it keeps the car flatter).
Scott have you tried combining blocks? A front B rear or B front C rear or viceversa to change anti-squat angle??

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Old 02-14-2005, 05:34 PM   #14645
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I have not, but have thought about it many times. I may bounce that off of Robbie (Collins) or Mike (Swauger) next time I talk to them. I call them a lot for setup suggestions as I am lucky enough that they are very familiar with our track here.
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:40 PM   #14646
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Oh yeah, to the guy that asked about a battery. It uses 5 AAA batts in a 2 over 3 type pack. Mugen sells a battery. I have one of those, but I also just made my own.

I called Swauger and he told me he has mixed the blocks in order to change the rear kickup. I am going to experiment with that.
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:45 PM   #14647
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how about the spacers on the rear upper links on top of the hubs
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:55 PM   #14648
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Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
how about the spacers on the rear upper links on top of the hubs
Rear Camber Links

Changing the length and position of the rear upper link changes the roll characteristics of the car.

The following generalizations apply in most cases.
An upper link that is parallel to the lower A-arm will make the Roll Center sit very low when the car is at normal ride height, hence the initial body roll when entering a corner will be big.
An upper link that is angled down will make the Roll Center sit up higher, making the initial roll moment smaller, which makes that particular end of the car feel very aggressive entering the corner.
A very long upper link will make that the roll moment stays more or less the same size when the chassis leans over; and the chassis will roll very deeply into the suspension travel. If a lot of camber is not used, this can make the tires slide because of excessive positive camber.
A short upper link will make that the roll moment becomes a lot smaller when the chassis leans; the chassis won't roll very far.

In general, you could say that the angle of the upper link relative to the A-arm determines where the roll center is with the chassis in its neutral position, and that the length of the upper link determines how much the height of the Roll Center changes as the chassis rolls.
A long, parallel link will locate the Roll Center very low, and it will stay very low as the car corners. Hence, the car (well at least that end of the car) will roll a lot.
An upper link that's angled down, and very short will locate the Roll Center very high, and it will stay high as the chassis rolls. So the chassis will roll very little.
Alternatively, a short, parallel link will make the car roll a lot at first, but as it rolls, the tendency will diminish. So it will roll very fast at first, but it will stop quickly.
And a long link that's angled down will reduce the car's tendency to roll initially, but as the chassis rolls it won't make much of a difference anymore.

In terms of car handling, this means that:
When the link is angled down the most (highest Roll Center) gives the most grip initially, when turning in, or exiting the corner,.
With a lower Roll Center when the chassis is rolled gives the most grip in the middle of the corner.
If you'd like more aggressive turn-in, and more low-speed steering, set the rear upper link at less of an angle.

Now you might ask yourself: what's the best, a high Roll Center or a low one? It all depends on the rest of the car and the track. One thing is for sure:
On a bumpy track, the Roll Center is better placed a little higher; it will prevent the car from rolling from side to side a lot as it takes the bumps, and it will also make it possible to use softer springs which allow the tires to stay in contact with the bumpy track.
On smooth tracks, you can use a very low Roll Center, combined with stiff springs, to increase the car's responsiveness.

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Old 02-14-2005, 05:58 PM   #14649
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scott Fisher
......................

I called Swauger and he told me he has mixed the blocks in order to change the rear kickup. I am going to experiment with that.
Scott, this might help you...

Anti-Squat Angle
Anti-squat describes the angle of the rear hinge-pins relative to the horizontal plane. Its purpose is to make the car squat less when accelerating. (Squatting is when the rear of the car drops down when the car accelerates)

More Angle:
Generally makes the rear of the car more sensitive to throttle input.
More anti-squat angle will give more 'driving traction, there will be more pressure on the rear tires as you accelerate, especially the first few meters.
It will give more on-power steering, because the car isn't squatting much.
The car has more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners.
The disadvantage is that the car has an increased tendency to become unstable entering corners.
On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accellerating out of corners.
It can also soak up bumps a little better, off-power.
It will cause the car to bounce more when accelerating through bumps
A lot of anti-squat (4 or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accellerating.

Less Angle:
Gives more rear traction while accellerating on a slippery or dusty track. It also gives more side-bite, and more rear traction when the car isn't accelerating.
The car will also be a lot more stable entering corners.
Gives a lot less on power steering.
Less anti-squat will make the car accellerate better and faster through bumpy sections.
Very little anti-squat (0 or 1) makes the rear end feel very stable. It also makes power sliding a lot easier.

Note:
Anti-squat only works when you're accellerating or braking, it does absolutely nothing when you're coasting through turns. The harder you brake or accellerate, the bigger the effect of anti-squat is.

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Old 02-14-2005, 05:59 PM   #14650
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alot to read but thanks it will help me out
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Old 02-14-2005, 08:16 PM   #14651
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Thanks Scott that helps alot.

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Old 02-14-2005, 08:37 PM   #14652
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Oh what pipe.

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Old 02-14-2005, 11:46 PM   #14653
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Tommy Chong pipe. j/k

I run a Top pipe or a Mugen pipe. Very similar. Any of the novarossi pipes will give good performance.
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Old 02-17-2005, 03:59 PM   #14654
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Hello all,

I raced the MTX3 Prospec at the winter nats,
I had to change cars in mid qualifiyers. The MTX3 Pro works great the only after market part I have on the car is the Kawhara rear swaybar, is their any other upgrade I should purchase for this car. and I have heard of the 16/19 conversion is it needed and what do I have to buy if it is a hot hopup?
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Old 02-17-2005, 04:19 PM   #14655
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If you want to go to the 16/19 conversion, you will need to buy a set of stock Mugen pulleys. This by the way is a conversion for the side belt. I tried the conversion and liked the car with the stock pulleys better. I do not have the excessive tire wear that many others have, but that could be because I try very hard not to slide the car. Either way if you want to try it, it is very easy. As I stated, buy a bag of the stock Mugen pulleys. Remove the front/side pulley and put it aside. Remove the rear 19 tooth pulley and put in on the front. Out of the bag of new pulleys, get the 16 tooth pulley and put it on the rear. You will have to also get the 19/16 belt which is shorter than the stock belt. You are ready to go. Quick and easy. I do not use any aftermarket parts on my MTX prospec and have managed to make the A main at the last two events here in Vegas. The car is quite good out of the box. The only thing I really want to get and have just been lazy is the Kaw 5th body post.
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