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Old 01-23-2005, 03:00 PM   #14566
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Quote:
Originally posted by cdelong
Thinking of getting a new chassis.....

If I get the Mugen 4mm Pro= Spec chassis, do I need different engine mounts, or can I use the stock ones.

Is there a better chassis than the pro-spec chassis.
The stock chassis actually is the best one : light weight, 4mm thick, 7075 alluminium. I crash often and the stock chassis is okay, no bent !! ...... I'm truly surprised too.

If you want the stiffest and strongest chassis you should get three racing mtx3 chassis. It's 4mm 7075 alluminium chassis without additional cutting / drilling to minimize chassis weight. It comes with engine mounting kit too . Btw, you could still use the original engine mounting in prospec kit.

It's heavier than stock, and it might affect handling too. I have one but I haven't try it yet because the stock chassis still okay.

http://rc-mushroom.com/index.php?cPa...sort=1a&page=2

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=3344



Note: You must use 3racing center radio plate post because the 3racing chassis is totally flat surface, no bevel. The original mtx's center radio plate post needs the bevel to secure it from slipping..
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Old 01-23-2005, 03:32 PM   #14567
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Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I got told that the new car wont be out till next year (2006).
thats good news for me just got my mtx-3 a month and a half ago anyway it is still a very good car and almost won the ROAR finals unfortunately the receiver batts just died down
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Old 01-23-2005, 11:39 PM   #14568
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The 3 racing chasis is not that good as it does not have all the sections milled out for the bulk heads and the motor which raises all the roll centres of the car.
If your after a thicker chasis just get the mugen 1 thats why its milled out as not to effect the roll centres on the car. And yes the standard engine mounts will fit
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:29 AM   #14569
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Is it true Mugen MTX3 Prospec have tendency to understeer quite alot ? I mean using the kit setup and parts ? No hop up yet.
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Old 01-25-2005, 02:59 AM   #14570
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Default 16/19

I'm new to the mtx-3 still, only have 14 races on it and I am still confused on the 16/19 conversion. I have been running it, but I see a lot more wear on the rears than the fronts.
Running foams, would I see even more wear on the rears without the conversion?

I'm sure it is mentioned somewhere in this thread, but I don't have a week to read it all.
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:21 AM   #14571
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Default Re: 16/19

Quote:
Originally posted by rcfoolz
I'm new to the mtx-3 still, only have 14 races on it and I am still confused on the 16/19 conversion. I have been running it, but I see a lot more wear on the rears than the fronts.
Running foams, would I see even more wear on the rears without the conversion?

I'm sure it is mentioned somewhere in this thread, but I don't have a week to read it all.
The idea of the 16/19 conversion is to help maintain even wear between front and rear tyres. This is for foam's only and you should use roughly a 4mm difference in diameter between the front and rear tyres - rears are larger. Yes, you would typically see more rear tyre wear with the stock pulleys.
Having said that, driving style has a lot to do with it, also. Sliding the car around accelerates tyre wear.
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:07 AM   #14572
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wow...4mm...Well, I have a lot of front tires that are around the 60mm mark, I will have to start using "uncut" tires for the rear. Thank you
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Old 01-25-2005, 05:07 AM   #14573
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Just search 16/19 on the nitro forum and you'll find tons of explanations of how and why it works. Truing the front tires down is the key.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:01 PM   #14574
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recently i've tried out the truing thing to my front tyre ( took off 2 mm)...with the rear untrued...

so went out in the 30 minutes main....after finish front and rear left half each...so i consider it even tyre wear....

anyway the rear one was coning a bit towarsd the outside...needs more camber
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:29 PM   #14575
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcabj
recently i've tried out the truing thing to my front tyre ( took off 2 mm)...with the rear untrued...

so went out in the 30 minutes main....after finish front and rear left half each...so i consider it even tyre wear....
I assume you run stock pulleys? That's what people do when they run in a long main. But then the first few minutes of the race, you car may experience a little bit of underdrive (i.e. rear pushing the front) and the rear can be a little taily. But halfway through, the car will be perfect.

But best would be if you can start with 1:1 overdrive and end with 1:1 overdrive in a long main...
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Old 01-25-2005, 10:34 PM   #14576
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INIATIAL D,

After being out of the seen for awhile, it is amazing that you are still a catylst for all of the different discplines !!!!!!!
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Old 01-25-2005, 10:49 PM   #14577
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Hey Jabroni, what's up?
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:54 AM   #14578
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Default How about some setup HELP?

I cannot find any information on setting this MTX-3 up. I have the basics, but need to know where the measurements are comming from. Also, the blade anti-roll bar. What do the symbols mean in accordance with the concentric cam?
UGH,

Thanks,

Gary
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:25 AM   #14579
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I assume you run stock pulleys? That's what people do when they run in a long main. But then the first few minutes of the race, you car may experience a little bit of underdrive (i.e. rear pushing the front) and the rear can be a little taily. But halfway through, the car will be perfect.

But best would be if you can start with 1:1 overdrive and end with 1:1 overdrive in a long main...
yeap..i'm running stock pulleys.... dunno when going to try the overdrive thingy all this tech stuff really annoys me
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Old 01-27-2005, 12:48 AM   #14580
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Hi,
I live in Australia and race an MTX-3 at my local club. The car is fitted with a front one way. My local track is very tight.

I would like to fit a diff in the front of the car to see if that would be faster at my track. The manual shows the parts required but they seem to come in all different packets from Mugen.

I was wondering if anyone knows if and where all the parts can be obtained in one go or will I have to order al the seperate parts lots?
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