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Old 01-20-2005, 07:19 PM   #14536
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well u r right i haven got the tools yet but i want to know what adjustments make what changes in the car, sway bars front and back, shock oil and springs, and my car doesnt like to turn with much speed in the corners? any help is needed, i will get the setup tools shortly, what all do i need.
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Old 01-20-2005, 07:25 PM   #14537
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You need:
Camber gauge
Ride height gauge
Droop gauge

and maybe a set of calipers if you wanna really get some measurements exactly.

If your car is not turning in the corners, try a softer shore front tire. If it still pushes, lay the front sway flat(if not already). Softer springs, raise ride height, move shock to inner hole. These things soften up the front to give you front traction. Having the sway vertical will stiffen it. It's good for high bite and quicker steering response. Let us know what else you need to know.
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Old 01-20-2005, 07:32 PM   #14538
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how do u set the front and rear sway bars,???

front, push it up or down and tighten the screws , and how tight do you tighten those screws should the sway bars be able to rotate or not, and what does that cam do?

rear, move the mounts in and out, what do its adjustments do?
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Old 01-20-2005, 07:37 PM   #14539
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sorry guys i know this may sound repeative but any news on mtx-4 yet?
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Old 01-20-2005, 07:39 PM   #14540
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The front should not rotate. Just make sure both sides are the same and that the ball end that meets the cup is not too close where it would cause binding.

Rear: moving the mounts in stiffen the bar.
As for the cam on the front, I can't really explain it but there was a website that explained it. I think it was the Xray site. Basically it was adjusting it so that the right wheel lifts up the same amout as the left. (with sway bars disconnected)
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Old 01-20-2005, 08:10 PM   #14541
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Brain,

Rob Reade was at a recent SE Asian distributiors meeting and there was no mention of an MTX4.

His opinion is that, there is sure to be a new car out at some stage, his guess is later this year at the earliest.

Again this is just his opinion, he has been told nothing.

DC

Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
sorry guys i know this may sound repeative but any news on mtx-4 yet?
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Old 01-20-2005, 09:31 PM   #14542
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Hey peoples
What shock lengths do you guys run on your suspension for the Front and the Rear?

Thanx
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Old 01-20-2005, 09:49 PM   #14543
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Quote:
Originally posted by gentleman81
how do u set the front and rear sway bars,???

front, push it up or down and tighten the screws , and how tight do you tighten those screws should the sway bars be able to rotate or not, and what does that cam do?

rear, move the mounts in and out, what do its adjustments do?
Front: if you put the blades flat i'ts the softest setting, The more you rotate them from flat to vertical the more stiff it gets.
Screws should be totally tight so the blades don't move from were you set them. The cam is to compensate one side from the other so the lower arms are leveled one against the other to were you set your droop.
Rear: move upper mounts in = more stiff. Move them out = more soft.
In general sway bars are to compensate weight transfer of car in turns. In straight line they don't work. This allows to use a softer spring on bumpy and low traction tracks and have the needed stiffness of suspension on turns. On the other hand if you have to much traction, the stiffer you set them prevents traction rolling.

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Old 01-21-2005, 03:24 AM   #14544
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Quote:
Originally posted by MTX-3 Kid
Hey peoples
What shock lengths do you guys run on your suspension for the Front and the Rear?

Thanx
Dunno the actual lengths off hand, but the rear ball ends have no thread showing.
With the fronts, there is about 3mm of thread showing 'cos we couldn't get enough droop for some situations.
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Old 01-21-2005, 12:01 PM   #14545
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Quote:
Originally posted by afm
Front: if you put the blades flat i'ts the softest setting, The more you rotate them from flat to vertical the more stiff it gets.
Screws should be totally tight so the blades don't move from were you set them. The cam is to compensate one side from the other so the lower arms are leveled one against the other to were you set your droop.
Rear: move upper mounts in = more stiff. Move them out = more soft.
In general sway bars are to compensate weight transfer of car in turns. In straight line they don't work. This allows to use a softer spring on bumpy and low traction tracks and have the needed stiffness of suspension on turns. On the other hand if you have to much traction, the stiffer you set them prevents traction rolling.

AFM
AFM, I don't use rear swaybar. From your experience, my car should be oversteer or understeer without rear swaybar ? My goal is to achieve perfect straight line stability at full throttle but I don't want to get oversteering problem too.

Thanks for your input.
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Old 01-21-2005, 12:17 PM   #14546
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Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
AFM, I don't use rear swaybar. From your experience, my car should be oversteer or understeer without rear swaybar ? My goal is to achieve perfect straight line stability at full throttle but I don't want to get oversteering problem too.

Thanks for your input.
Well, i race on rubber tires, and on a medium grip track, and i use sway bars on both axles.
Normally if you use a sway bar on one axle only, it transfers more grip to the opposite axle, so it depends on what your car is doing.
I use Dark blue springs at front, and light blue at rear,with both sway bars on the softest position.

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Old 01-21-2005, 12:26 PM   #14547
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AFM : Thanks alot, man

The dark blue at front is 1.7 diameter.

I want to know more about light blue spring at rear. Is this equivalent to 1.6 diameter ? Is this Mugen springs hop up ?
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Old 01-21-2005, 12:44 PM   #14548
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Quote:
Originally posted by asw7576
AFM : Thanks alot, man

The dark blue at front is 1.7 diameter.

I want to know more about light blue spring at rear. Is this equivalent to 1.6 diameter ? Is this Mugen springs hop up ?
This is Mugen's MTX 3 spring chart:
FRONT:
HO523 purple 1.6mm
HO524 light blue 1.7mm
HO533 dark blue 1.8mm
REAR:
HO527 purple 1.6mm
HO528 light blue 1.7mm
HO534 dark blue 1.8mm

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Old 01-21-2005, 02:47 PM   #14549
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ok now i have laid the front and rear shocks all the way down to the inner whole, i have the rear sway bar at its outer most point on the ends, i have the front sway bar flat and i need to tighten it so it holds the setting.

so if the softer springs give you more traction and i am running the stock blues what color spring will give me more traction?

also i amd running the side belt conv, to help me save on tires, should i put the stock pulleys and belt back on or does this setup help me in the corners, i saw someone wrote it helps the car pull through the turns (belt conv.)

and for more traction i also need to raise my ride height?
front or rear?
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Old 01-21-2005, 03:07 PM   #14550
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Quote:
Originally posted by gentleman81
ok now i have laid the front and rear shocks all the way down to the inner whole, i have the rear sway bar at its outer most point on the ends, i have the front sway bar flat and i need to tighten it so it holds the setting.

so if the softer springs give you more traction and i am running the stock blues what color spring will give me more traction?

also i amd running the side belt conv, to help me save on tires, should i put the stock pulleys and belt back on or does this setup help me in the corners, i saw someone wrote it helps the car pull through the turns (belt conv.)

and for more traction i also need to raise my ride height?
front or rear?
What tires are you running, Foams or Rubber???
Side belt pulley conversion is to give different overdrive ratio when running on foams to compensate for running smaller front tires and or more foam wear on front. If you run Rubber you need the stock pulleys and a front diff.
I run with rubbers with front diff, and stock pulleys. My shocks are on the 2nd hole from the top up front and totally laid down on rear, with dark blue springs up front and light blue on rear.

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