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Old 09-06-2004, 03:40 PM   #13951
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Default Re: Sway Bar tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by Ed Delgado
The problem with the current front end of the MTX3 is that the droop screws come in contact on the front sway bar holder. People have a hard time getting the droop settings even from left to right while getting the sway bar evenly tweaked. The problem I have is that when you have it all set correctly-left and right droop and you tighten down on the cam screw, your droop settings change a little. It's almost impossible to get the front cam screw tightened so that it's perfect-left and right droop with the sway bar cam adjustment screw tight. It would be alot easier if the droop screws made contact on the suspension arms directly, independent of the sway bar holders (as on the older Serpent cars like the Vector and Veteq) It would then be alot easier to set up your front end:

1. Disconnect front sway bar and shocks.
2. Set left and right side droop equally.
3. Connect front sway bar and adjust cam screw so that left and right side are even (at same droop settings) by adjusting cam.
4. Re-connect shocks.

By the way, I am using the 3 Racing aluminum sway bar holders that have the cam adjustment on both sides. It makes it alot easier to adjust. And the fact that aluminum doesn't "squish" means that the settings don't change as much when you tighten down on the cam screws.


Whew! That whas alot of typing!


Ed,

Is this only for the 3 Racing sway bar set? Or can I use your derections for a Kawahara front sway bar? I'm in need of a new front sway bar and would like to get something that everyone has had good luck with. Let me know.
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Old 09-06-2004, 03:44 PM   #13952
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
Does anyone here run the front diff on the mtx3? Im concidering building the front diff to use at a fairly tight track that i occasionally run at. The track if fairly tight and low grip. Does anyone think the added braking would make up for the pros of the One way on a tight low grip track?

Also if you are going to run a front diff what oil would you use say if i was running #30,000 in the rear? Better to run lighter in the front?
Bleach, I think you would want to run heavier in front. I just switched from 10,000 wt. in the reat to 50,000 in the rear with a one-way up front. I'll try to find some info out from a friend of mine that runs a diff up front ( i think).
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Old 09-06-2004, 05:13 PM   #13953
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by afm
Patrick
You are right, but since we don't control pipe stinger dia. here in Peru I dindn't gave importance to that detail.
I don't have the pipe yet, It's on the mail, so I can't give you a physical measure, but if i were you I'd ask Lee to measure the stinger of the pipes he has on hand, and take your decision from there.
What about the ones at Ace Hobbies, did you check with them???
AFM
HI there... Was wondering if you had received the pipe...
I would like to know if you could just measure the stinger outlet and the manifold outlet...

thanks in advance...
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Old 09-06-2004, 06:29 PM   #13954
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by bleach1
Does anyone here run the front diff on the mtx3? Im concidering building the front diff to use at a fairly tight track that i occasionally run at. The track if fairly tight and low grip. Does anyone think the added braking would make up for the pros of the One way on a tight low grip track?

Also if you are going to run a front diff what oil would you use say if i was running #30,000 in the rear? Better to run lighter in the front?
Bleach, I run on a similar track ... tight, loose but there is a 200ft straight. Run heavy up front like Alucard does ... 50-100k. It'll help to have brakes when things get loose. No spinning out. In the rear I went from 10k to 3k. Heavier in the back is great for open tracks with lots of straights and sweepers, but on low-traction tracks, a loose rear diff helps the car turn-in faster. I tried 30k in the rear and I was fishing like crazy. The outside rear tire was breaking traction.
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Old 09-06-2004, 10:36 PM   #13955
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Bandeira
HI there... Was wondering if you had received the pipe...
I would like to know if you could just measure the stinger outlet and the manifold outlet...

thanks in advance...
Patrick,
Yes I finally got the pipe today and measured the stinger outlet. It has a 5.00mm No-Go dia. , because it is EFRA 2609 homologated, so it 's perfectly IFMAR legaL
I'll try it this weekend at one of our National Championship races in my Sirio Evo2 self modified....hope it rocks....let you know.

Alfonso
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Old 09-07-2004, 12:11 AM   #13956
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Default Re: Re: Sway Bar tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Ed,

Is this only for the 3 Racing sway bar set? Or can I use your derections for a Kawahara front sway bar? I'm in need of a new front sway bar and would like to get something that everyone has had good luck with. Let me know.
It's the same for any sway bar set-up. The advantage to the alum Kawahara or 3 Racing sway bar holders is hat you have a cam adjustment on both the left and right sides.

The problem for not-so-experienced racers with Mugen cars is that they don't include a comprehensive set-up manual for their cars as the guys from Holland (Snake) do.

Check out this link to get a better idea of how to set-up your suspension:

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?sn=7&pid=7002
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Old 09-07-2004, 12:27 PM   #13957
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Quote:
Originally posted by afm
Patrick,
Yes I finally got the pipe today and measured the stinger outlet. It has a 5.00mm No-Go dia. , because it is EFRA 2609 homologated, so it 's perfectly IFMAR legaL
I'll try it this weekend at one of our National Championship races in my Sirio Evo2 self modified....hope it rocks....let you know.

Alfonso
Wad about the manifold outlet diameter?
Please let me know your impressions(and what other pipe it was compared to)...

thanks in advance...

...cheers...
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Old 09-07-2004, 01:24 PM   #13958
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Bandeira
Wad about the manifold outlet diameter?
Please let me know your impressions(and what other pipe it was compared to)...

thanks in advance...

...cheers...
Patrick

Manifold is a mild conical shape that starts at 13mm at the engine end, and gradualy widens to 14mm at the pipes end.
I will do tests on Friday against RB E1751-193402 pipe, and against Sirio S12-200006 pipe.
Let you know on Monday after the race my conclusions.

Ciao
Alfonso
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Old 09-08-2004, 07:37 AM   #13959
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Default Re: Re: Re: Sway Bar tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by Ed Delgado
It's the same for any sway bar set-up. The advantage to the alum Kawahara or 3 Racing sway bar holders is hat you have a cam adjustment on both the left and right sides.

The problem for not-so-experienced racers with Mugen cars is that they don't include a comprehensive set-up manual for their cars as the guys from Holland (Snake) do.

Check out this link to get a better idea of how to set-up your suspension:

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?sn=7&pid=7002
Ed,

In the past I had the sway bar on my 835 of course with the adjustable cam on one side and It was hard trying to get the droop settings correct but it was done.......Thanks.
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Old 09-08-2004, 05:13 PM   #13960
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Default Re: Re: Mugen 1 piece pipe

Nice pipe

Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
For the X12? Try these:







best,
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Old 09-09-2004, 05:42 PM   #13961
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Default Dumb ?

If I need to space my pinion gears out further, do I put spacers behind the collet?
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Old 09-09-2004, 05:58 PM   #13962
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Default Re: Dumb ?

did you call my name?

Quote:
Originally posted by e420x
If I need to space my pinion gears out further, do I put spacers behind the collet?
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:00 PM   #13963
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Default Re: Dumb ?

I think there are two ways to achieve this. You can either add the shim/spacer behinde the collet--but, this is usually the way to solve the flywheel rubbing/touching the case. Or, you can enlarge those engine screw holes. This way you can move the whole engine forward as you wish.

Quote:
Originally posted by e420x
If I need to space my pinion gears out further, do I put spacers behind the collet?
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:01 PM   #13964
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Default Re: Re: Re: Mugen 1 piece pipe

I like the top one, but the latter has better price. Italy stuffs always cost more here for some unknown reasons.

Quote:
Originally posted by Aaron_ETF
Nice pipe
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:47 PM   #13965
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Default

sorry RC dumb I was just saying dumb question not calling you. Anyways I am having real problems getting my pinion gear out correctly and getting the pinion to spin freely when I tighten the sg bolt. Any tips here?

Now that I spaced the pinion out, its still not far enough with 2 of the .5 washers, and now when I tighten the bolt to the shaft the clutch bell does not spin freely???


help??
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