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Old 08-03-2004, 06:25 AM   #13576
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no i didnt confuse it with ride height, but it is posible that i confused it with something else. on the settings sheets it says rebound stop i thought that it was droop, maybe im wrong. help me out
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Old 08-03-2004, 06:36 AM   #13577
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Default Re: DOG WITH NO BONE

Quote:
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Dog with no bone

140+ laps into a 150 lap race....still a great car
It just came off? Wierd.

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Old 08-03-2004, 06:39 AM   #13578
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Quote:
Originally posted by brooklynrc
no i didnt confuse it with ride height, but it is posible that i confused it with something else. on the settings sheets it says rebound stop i thought that it was droop, maybe im wrong. help me out
I THINK (dont quote me), rebound stop is the screws on the bottom of the rear and front susp arms that screw up towards the car. This allows you to set how far the car will bottom out.

The droop setting are the screws (in the front they are towards the bumper by the sway bar and in back they are close to the rear diff) that when you screw down towards the chassis raise and lower the susp arms.
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Old 08-03-2004, 06:54 AM   #13579
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any books or sites that explain the functions and advantages of droop and down stop blah blah settings?
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:52 AM   #13580
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Default Outlaw engine

Hiya,

just brought a second hand MTX3 with a NSR12s5 engine.
The car handled like a dream, very similar to the MRX 3 with rear diff and front one way.

Ok, i am looking for a outlaw engine , as i can handle all the power from the NSR5 ( lap time were quicker than my 1/8th !!). What outlaw engine would you guys go for, and how they perform at your local track ? I was thinking about the jp 5 ports outlaw or the rody RB 5 ports. I have seen the RB rody 3 ports, that engine is ballistic, are there anything out there faster than that ??

Thanks

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Old 08-03-2004, 09:13 AM   #13581
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Quote:
Originally posted by brooklynrc
no i didnt confuse it with ride height, but it is posible that i confused it with something else. on the settings sheets it says rebound stop i thought that it was droop, maybe im wrong. help me out
Yes rebound equals droop, but just be sure you are not adjusting the bump stop screws instead, and that you are adjusting your ride height with the shocks and not with droop.

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Old 08-03-2004, 09:42 AM   #13582
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
any books or sites that explain the functions and advantages of droop and down stop blah blah settings?
I'll try my best on the translation, here it goes according to official Mugen driver team from Spain.

REBOUND STOPS: These are the screws that prevent suspension to expand too much. For example when we pick up the car in the air the suspension arms drop and stay in a position, well, this position is the one you set with the downstops. Of course both downstops of the same axis must be perfectly equal,so the car will go straight when braking or accelerating.
Just remember that before you set up Camber and Toe, you must have the droop and car height perfectly set.


FRONT DROOP (Front Downstops or Rebound Stop)

WHAT DO YOU ACHIEVE:
By increasing front droop, you make the car easear to enter a turn, and gain steering exiting the turn.
Reducing front droop will make the car iniciate the turn faster, but will have less steering exiting the turn.
If you need more on-power steering, or middle steering, give more droop (less downstop) at the front.

REAR DROOP (Rear Downstops or Rebound Stops):

WHAT DO YOU ACHIEVE:
Increasing rear droop the car will have more lateral grip and more traction.
Reducing rear droop (more downstop), the car will have more responsive steering, but less lateral grip.

And here is another explanation from HPI's setting guide:

WHAT IS DROOP???
Down travel (or droop) is how far the suspension drops below when raised from ride height, before the tires leaves the ground. If you set a car on the ground, push it down a few times to settle the suspension, then begin to slowly pick up one end of the car, you’ll notice that the tires will stay on the ground for a little bit before they come up. This is droop.. Adjusting droop can greatly affect the way your car handles.
As you increase your front droop you will smooth the car going into the turn, and gain steering on the exit of the turn.
As you decrease your front droop your car will initiate the turn quicker but will have less steering coming out of the turn. The car will also have a more responsive feel.
For the rear, as you increase the droop your car will gain more side bite and traction.
As you decrease the rear droop, you car will become more responsive and will have less side bite, but giving you more steering.
Normally on low bite tracks such as parking lots you will find more droop will increase traction and hook your car up. On high bite tracks you will find that less droop will help keep the car flatter and increase corner speed and lap times.
If you need a little bit more steering on power, or in the middle of the turn , add a little more droop to the front suspension. If you want a little bit more rear traction in the middle of the turn, reduce the amount of droop in the front or increase the amount of droop in the rear. Rear droop should always be more than front droop.

HOPE THIS HELPS

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Old 08-03-2004, 12:47 PM   #13583
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Quote:
Originally posted by brooklynrc
no i didnt confuse it with ride height, but it is posible that i confused it with something else. on the settings sheets it says rebound stop i thought that it was droop, maybe im wrong. help me out
OK. I'd think it would be unusual to have the chassis dragging on the ground after 10 minutes. Give us some detail of ride height, tyre shore, track surface etc.
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Old 08-03-2004, 01:06 PM   #13584
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Please remember that the droop settings change with tire-size to maintain the required "uplift" capability......the mugen recommendations on the setup sheet don't mean anything without considering the size of the tires......
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Old 08-03-2004, 03:51 PM   #13585
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I just got my MTX-3 prospec. I have been racing a NTC3 for about 4 months. I do not see any front droop screws. Am I blind, or do I have to put limiters inside the front shocks to set the front droop?
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Old 08-03-2004, 04:04 PM   #13586
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look on the front bulkheads....there are some setscrews that contact the front swaybar mounts to control droop.

The setscrews on the swaybar mount that contact the front bulkhead control down-travel (bump stops).
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Old 08-03-2004, 04:15 PM   #13587
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scott Fisher
I just got my MTX-3 prospec. I have been racing a NTC3 for about 4 months. I do not see any front droop screws. Am I blind, or do I have to put limiters inside the front shocks to set the front droop?
If you look at your car from the front, look at the front bumper top plate, on the side that fixes to the front bulkheads, there are four holes, the outside holes are used to fix the bumper plate, the two inner holes are to reach to the droop setting screws that are set on the bulkheads.

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Old 08-03-2004, 09:53 PM   #13588
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funny, I was going through the same thing tonight, but figured it out after looking at it, but I am confused on my front sway bar. (blade type-----kawahara or 3 racing...don't know) It has these little tabs that stick out. What are they for?

also, will droop change as the tire wears down?
I know ride hieght will, but what about the up travel as well, this will have to be adjusted too?

what is the thought of the chassis brace with the belt roller? Scrap it or keep it?

and last, I have a clicking sound on the front one-way when the tires are rolled backwards...any idea why?

thanks
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:58 PM   #13589
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What does the rear roll adjustments do to the MTX3?

My car has the "B" blocks in, and handles good, but I need more turn in off power...??
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Old 08-03-2004, 10:00 PM   #13590
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcfoolz
funny, I was going through the same thing tonight, but figured it out after looking at it, but I am confused on my front sway bar. (blade type-----kawahara or 3 racing...don't know) It has these little tabs that stick out. What are they for?

also, will droop change as the tire wears down?
I know ride hieght will, but what about the up travel as well, this will have to be adjusted too?

what is the thought of the chassis brace with the belt roller? Scrap it or keep it?

and last, I have a clicking sound on the front one-way when the tires are rolled backwards...any idea why?

thanks
Droop does not change during a run, only ride height, BUT if you decide to raise the ride height , you will be changing the droop. (decreasing droop)

If you are using dogbones then the clicking noise probably means you need to space out the dogbones a little more. If it is coming from the one-way then something is wrong.
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