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Old 07-12-2004, 12:25 AM   #13276
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Haha, I'll be there Sat.
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Old 07-12-2004, 12:26 AM   #13277
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by ProRacer03


/QUOTE]

Holy body posts Batman!
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Old 07-12-2004, 03:34 AM   #13278
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Thats his roll over protection, He didn't want to scratch his new shell.
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Old 07-12-2004, 04:57 AM   #13279
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Hey guys any of you mtx-3 racers race on a low traction, small, bumpy, technical track? im looking to get some advice on some suspension tuning.

Basically my car handles fine yet i notice that the top guys at my track are getting around the corners much better. I was wondering how i could set my car to turn in really fast yet hold that small radius while still turning. Also they seem to do it at higher than low speeds if you know what i mean.

Also if i put say 5,000 diff oil in the rear which wheel will want to spin more the inside wheel or the outside wheel? i would like to ask the same question with say 30,000 diff oil in the rear. and also my tire wear at the front seems like its running negative camber as the out side of the tire is thin where as on the inside the foam has more meat! do you guys think this makes the car turn better or would you want me to add more camber so that the tire wear at the front is even or would you want me to have the tyres wear on the inside more?

Basically my set up is as follows
Front diff oil - 100,000 oil Kyosho.
Rear diff oil - 10,000 oil kyosho. (soon to change to 5,000 as i was advised to do so)
Front shock oil - 50 wht.
Rear shock oil - 40 wht.
Front 1" toe out & 1.5" camber.
Rear 3" toe in & 2.5" camber.
Fromt tyres - 40sh.
Rear tyres - 37sh.
Ride height - 5mm.f&r.
Front shock position on shock tower. Bottom Holes.
Rear shock position on rear tower. Bottom Holes.
Front sway-bar set flat. Softest.
Down stops and up stops F & R (0)
Full droop on front and rear.
orginal blue springs at all corners
also running with a Hitec HS5645MG steering servo (rated: 10.8 kg and .23 secs)

Sorry about my essay
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Old 07-12-2004, 06:39 AM   #13280
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BrainTeased,

Check PM.

Start with even tire wear and then adjust from there.

100,000 front diff is to much IMO. Go with 30,000 on a small tight track. You may want to give the one-way a try.

What ackerman block are you running?

What rear roll center blocks are you using?

See PM for more info

Mark
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:34 AM   #13281
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
Hey guys any of you mtx-3 racers race on a low traction, small, bumpy, technical track? im looking to get some advice on some suspension tuning
First, don't let my signature below fool you (j/k).

Looking at your setup, what would you tried to achieve? I mean how to turn sharper and faster with the use of hard oil filled front diff, harder front tires, and harder front damper oil?

Anyway, let's say that is the perfect setup for that particular track/event/runs, in order to take corner as you wanted (faster and tighter radius and in this case without chaging current setups) the only thin you could do is to have a drag brake (car will brake when you let go throttle). In other word, you would able to let go your throttle away later than it should as it will brake hard enough without spinning and take the corner faster and tighter. If you don't know how to install/have one, I'm sure you could ask people on your track or other mugen drivers here. Hope it helps.
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Old 07-12-2004, 11:49 AM   #13282
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrainTeased
Hey guys any of you mtx-3 racers race on a low traction, small, bumpy, technical track? im looking to get some advice on some suspension tuning.

Basically my car handles fine yet i notice that the top guys at my track are getting around the corners much better. I was wondering how i could set my car to turn in really fast yet hold that small radius while still turning. Also they seem to do it at higher than low speeds if you know what i mean.

Also if i put say 5,000 diff oil in the rear which wheel will want to spin more the inside wheel or the outside wheel? i would like to ask the same question with say 30,000 diff oil in the rear. and also my tire wear at the front seems like its running negative camber as the out side of the tire is thin where as on the inside the foam has more meat! do you guys think this makes the car turn better or would you want me to add more camber so that the tire wear at the front is even or would you want me to have the tyres wear on the inside more?

Basically my set up is as follows
Front diff oil - 100,000 oil Kyosho.
Rear diff oil - 10,000 oil kyosho. (soon to change to 5,000 as i was advised to do so)
Front shock oil - 50 wht.
Rear shock oil - 40 wht.
Front 1" toe out & 1.5" camber.
Rear 3" toe in & 2.5" camber.
Fromt tyres - 40sh.
Rear tyres - 37sh.
Ride height - 5mm.f&r.
Front shock position on shock tower. Bottom Holes.
Rear shock position on rear tower. Bottom Holes.
Front sway-bar set flat. Softest.
Down stops and up stops F & R (0)
Full droop on front and rear.
orginal blue springs at all corners
also running with a Hitec HS5645MG steering servo (rated: 10.8 kg and .23 secs)

Sorry about my essay

Where do you race? Space coast. You race at Daytona or another track? Each one will be different.


If you race at Strickland RC then I would recommend keeping the 10k in rear. Kevin R, uses a solid front, I gave it a try It didnt work for me I currently have 50k front. I like the ability to brake hard yet still have some movement btwn the two front wheels. Can you be more specific on the Droop what do you mean Fulll..?
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Old 07-12-2004, 03:20 PM   #13283
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by mckrooz
Quote:
Originally posted by ProRacer03


/QUOTE]

Holy body posts Batman!
Didn't pick a shell yet.
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Old 07-12-2004, 06:10 PM   #13284
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So I tried to drive the car again today, but now i have a new problem.

The problem is, now that I have loosened the clutchbell screw so it does not hold onto the shims so tightly and threadlocked it so it doesn't back out, the engine begins to rev on its own.

The carb settings are factory, but at idle it just keeps gettin louder and louder! It's like it leans itself out, when there is fuel in the tank and the throttle in neutral. The rpms just go higher and higher

Any idea's on what this could be? Engine is a NS12S3A1
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Old 07-12-2004, 06:36 PM   #13285
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Close the idle gap a little bit. Counter-clockwise on the angled screw below the high speed needle.
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:20 PM   #13286
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Quote:
The problem is, now that I have loosened the clutchbell screw so it does not hold onto the shims so tightly and threadlocked it so it doesn't back out, the engine begins to rev on its own
This is INCORRECT Assembly......

Quote:
The carb settings are factory, but at idle it just keeps gettin louder and louder! It's like it leans itself out, when there is fuel in the tank and the throttle in neutral. The rpms just go higher and higher
Clearly there is some misunderstanding going on here. Obvious troubles you are describing lead me to believe that there is limited experience nitro engines and clutches.

Disassemble the clutch and CAREFULLY reassemble according to the manufacturer's directions. Pay attention to the sequence of assembly and the shimming process. When you are done, the screw into the shaft should be tightened fully and there should only be enough shims used between the thrust bearing and the clutch bearings to provide a small amount of free movement along the axis of the shaft for the clutch bell. As for the engine...do you understand the idle adjustment screw? Does your linkage and servo attempt to fully close the throttle? Do you have a throttle-return spring put on in reverse?
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:23 AM   #13287
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You're right I have limited experience, which was why i've been asking questions.

I got it to work fine now. It was assembled correctly just used a little too much threadlock which caused it to bind. Thanks for the input. I appreciated the help!
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Old 07-13-2004, 02:58 AM   #13288
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Default centax clutch thrust spring

hello....i am confused about this...can anyone give indication to me when to use soft, hard spring etc..

btw..i'm using a nova 5 port motor.

thanks...
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Old 07-13-2004, 03:48 AM   #13289
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Quote:
Originally posted by munrath
BrainTeased,
What ackerman block are you running?

if ya talking about the steering thing in the middle its "B"

What rear roll center blocks are you using?

Is this the one located at the back of the diff? if so its also "B" might have to check my spares to see what other A B C pieces on using
Mark
Also i've tried a front one-way... im still new so i need my brakes!!! :P and none of our top drivers at my local track are using front one way.

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
First, don't let my signature below fool you (j/k).

Looking at your setup, what would you tried to achieve? I mean how to turn sharper and faster with the use of hard oil filled front diff, harder front tires, and harder front damper oil?

This setup was done by a good driver at the track! very good driver must i say!!! (running one speed and can keep up with guys with Nova MAX with 2 speeds! and hes only running a sirio!)

Anyway, let's say that is the perfect setup for that particular track/event/runs, in order to take corner as you wanted (faster and tighter radius and in this case without chaging current setups) the only thin you could do is to have a drag brake (car will brake when you let go throttle). In other word, you would able to let go your throttle away later than it should as it will brake hard enough without spinning and take the corner faster and tighter. If you don't know how to install/have one, I'm sure you could ask people on your track or other mugen drivers here. Hope it helps.
Hey thats exactly what i did before last week!!! but i think because i made my front end about 195mm wide it was oversteering abit. but im happy that im on the right track with the brake drag thing!!! thanks for that!
Quote:
Originally posted by vadn1
Where do you race? Space coast. You race at Daytona or another track? Each one will be different.

I race in australia!

I currently have 50k front. I like the ability to brake hard yet still have some movement btwn the two front wheels.

So the stiffer the front diff the easier to turn a car while under brakes?

Can you be more specific on the Droop what do you mean Fulll..?
i have no idea!!! lol setup was done by a very expreienced driver at my track but i think full droop he made my car go all the way down... example when i put my car on the ground you will see that my whole car sorta sinks down!

Sorry for the huge post
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Old 07-13-2004, 04:43 AM   #13290
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Gday brainteased , try this set up...

Front:
Width = 198mm
Ride Height = 5mm
Camber = -2
Caster = 2
Toe = 1 out
Droop = 1
Shock piston = Stock
Oil = mugen 500
Spring = Purple
Anti-roll bar = Flat
Shock position = Lowest
Ackerman = A
Front Diff = 50,000 (remove the 4 little O-rings on the diff spider gears)

Rear:
Width = 199mm
Ride height = 6mm
Camber = -3
Toe = 3 in
Droop = 6mm
Lower arm position = (C-C)
Anti-roll bar = stock
Shock piston = Stock
Spring = Purple
Oil = Mugen 500
Shock position = Lowest
Diff oil = 10,000 ( remove 4 little O-rings off the spider gears)

Gear Ratio:
1st gear = 15/47
2nd gear = 20/42

Tyres:
37 shore all round for Low grip
40 shore all round for Medium grip



Its a good set up for Small, Technical, Low or Medium grip Track..
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