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Old 06-21-2004, 07:15 PM   #13006
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the teflons still have to be sanded, if you dont sand it you'll have to wait much longer for it to free up.
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:19 PM   #13007
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
the teflons still have to be sanded, if you dont sand it you'll have to wait much longer for it to free up.
Teflon, thats why they feel different (pardon my ignorance since i am used to the NTC3 and have only recently switched to the MTX-3). Should i sand them half way down or less?
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:22 PM   #13008
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I cant really tell you, you have to sand and check, sand and check, i didnt take a measurement when i sanded mine.
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:24 PM   #13009
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Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
The castor clips on the upper hingepin on the front.
When you change them do you put bigger ones on or put more on the fromt/back of the hingepin.

BTW Kev, you didnt miss anything on sat. Except for my sweet looking bodies! Muhahahahaha
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:26 PM   #13010
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
I cant really tell you, you have to sand and check, sand and check, i didnt take a measurement when i sanded mine.
The only way to check is to put everything together and move the car back and forth right? Or is there a way to check before putting it all together. How often do you have to replace the teflon brakes?

Thanx for the help.
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:33 PM   #13011
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Yeap you have to put everything back together, such a pain in the a$$ i know, i just grab the front wheel and spin in slowly, you can roll it, but if you spin the wheel with your hand you can "feel" whether it is free and smooth or not.
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:38 PM   #13012
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Ok, I don't know about this brake dragging issue, but I noticed on my car if I give it brakes, it will stay slightly engaged. Now if you move the brake bar back it will be fine and nice and free. In offroad we just use a spring from a Bic pen and cut it about 7mm long or so and place them on the pins inbetween the pads (ofna actually makes springs for this) and that stops the drag. Is this what you all are talking about when you say sanding? If so I will just add the springs and not worry about the sanding.

I am running the black shoes with a vented disc.
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:52 PM   #13013
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
Anybody have any suggestions on how to get this car to steer more? Im running the stock setup with 50,000 oil in the rear with 37fronts 40 rears and still dont have any steering.
Are you running on a permanant track or a parking lot? If on a lot, try 10,000 in the rear diff this will give you more turn in. If you are on a permanant track try 30,000 in the diff. I used a solid front at the biggie and the car turned quite a bit. I ran 42 front & 40 rear at the biggie and had almost no tire wear using G.QTires.
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:52 PM   #13014
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Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
For the Prospec do you have to sand the brakes? The brakes feel rubberie and don't seem like they can be sanded. if i so, how far half way down?
Better yet, machine down or sand the vent disc( ninja star looking peice) between the pads, that way you wont' have to sand the pads down if they wear out later and this way they last longer then turning them down. I have taken off .8mm and seemed to work good.
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:54 PM   #13015
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Quote:
Originally posted by David Joor
Ok, I don't know about this brake dragging issue, but I noticed on my car if I give it brakes, it will stay slightly engaged. Now if you move the brake bar back it will be fine and nice and free. In offroad we just use a spring from a Bic pen and cut it about 7mm long or so and place them on the pins inbetween the pads (ofna actually makes springs for this) and that stops the drag. Is this what you all are talking about when you say sanding? If so I will just add the springs and not worry about the sanding.

I am running the black shoes with a vented disc.
Even with the springs they are tight without sanding....try machining down the vent disc.

I
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Old 06-21-2004, 07:57 PM   #13016
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
Anybody have any suggestions on how to get this car to steer more? Im running the stock setup with 50,000 oil in the rear with 37fronts 40 rears and still dont have any steering.
Definately try 10,000 in the rear, will have better steering into the corner and it won't lock up as much coming out. I ran 10,000 at this Southwest Series race and the traction felt higher than the Biggie to me but it could have been the car. 50,000 is not helping at all.

Also flatten your front bar, try the A rear blocks if you are running the B's, add toe out in the front, and goto less rear toe. That is the first set of tips I would give, and once you do those try increasing and lower the shims in the rear camber link as well to see what improves your situation.
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Old 06-21-2004, 08:02 PM   #13017
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Quote:
Originally posted by David Joor
Definately try 10,000 in the rear, will have better steering into the corner and it won't lock up as much coming out. I ran 10,000 at this Southwest Series race and the traction felt higher than the Biggie to me but it could have been the car. 50,000 is not helping at all.

Also flatten your front bar, try the A rear blocks if you are running the B's, add toe out in the front, and goto less rear toe. That is the first set of tips I would give, and once you do those try increasing and lower the shims in the rear camber link as well to see what improves your situation.
Also try the c steering rack, it will make the car faster in the corners! Do not run toe out with the C rack, you run x/tra toe out to gain ackerman! It is not needed with C!
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Old 06-21-2004, 08:20 PM   #13018
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Default Sanding pads

I sand the pads on my MTX and MRX. After you glue the pad to the plate, find a piece of 600 grit or finer and mount it to a very flat surface. After a few seconds of sanding the pad you will see some high spots. Run the pad on the grit until all the high spots on the pad are gone. This will give you a more consistent braking action.

I also round the corner of the brake post. If you watch the braking action with the stock post you will see that the application of the brake is not linier. Round the post so that the post rolls onto the plate.

I also knock down the opposite side of the post to prevent any possibility of the brake engaging when at full throttle.
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Old 06-21-2004, 08:42 PM   #13019
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Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
Better yet, machine down or sand the vent disc( ninja star looking peice) between the pads, that way you wont' have to sand the pads down if they wear out later and this way they last longer then turning them down. I have taken off .8mm and seemed to work good.
Cool, thanx Kev. BTW, when you coming down to race at Homestead? Royal Palm Raceway? I took a peak at it a couple weekends ago and it looks good. Sorta like Kissimmee but not as big and you need a setup to have it work for ya. Also, the software for the personal trandponders is cool because it says your name and lap times.
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Old 06-21-2004, 08:49 PM   #13020
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raffaelli - Thanks for the info, I was not aware of this tip. I was so excited that I could actually grab brake going into a corner with a one-way and not have the car get unsettled that I stop paying attention to them
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