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Old 06-19-2004, 09:43 PM   #12946
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Default Diff & Sway Bar

Two more questions...

1. Is there a kit for the front diff, or do I need to order all of the pieces that were not supplied?

2. How do you measure the front sway bar angle?

Thanks
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Old 06-19-2004, 11:19 PM   #12947
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Oh, had a little trouble did we?
Lets just say a certain forum stalker did.
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Old 06-20-2004, 01:28 AM   #12948
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on rubber tires run the swaybar flat, unless you are getting oversteer and then put a little angle on it.
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Old 06-20-2004, 03:07 AM   #12949
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A question for the MTX experts . . .
Have you noticed the right side brace is not parallel with the chassis. The front mounting point is about 3mm lower than the rear.

I had a serious tweak develop from this area when first rebuilding the car and didn't notice it at the time. Given that the brace is flat, I figured the mounting points would not be offset. There isn't a spacer or something for the front mounting point, is there? I'm puzzled.

Oh yeah . . . had our first serious outing with the new car today at our club's trophy dash. The traction was rather lower than usual but we managed to get it working roughly OK. Unfortunately the throttle servo developed a terminal case of cerebral palsy while my driver was running second - bugger it.
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Old 06-20-2004, 04:48 AM   #12950
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
A question for the MTX experts . . .
Have you noticed the right side brace is not parallel with the chassis. The front mounting point is about 3mm lower than the rear.

I had a serious tweak develop from this area when first rebuilding the car and didn't notice it at the time. Given that the brace is flat, I figured the mounting points would not be offset. There isn't a spacer or something for the front mounting point, is there? I'm puzzled.

Oh yeah . . . had our first serious outing with the new car today at our club's trophy dash. The traction was rather lower than usual but we managed to get it working roughly OK. Unfortunately the throttle servo developed a terminal case of cerebral palsy while my driver was running second - bugger it.
the s shape of the brace goes to the rear as per instructions and if installed this way it will mount flush with no tweak
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Old 06-20-2004, 04:58 AM   #12951
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Quote:
Originally posted by chookgb
the s shape of the brace goes to the rear as per instructions and if installed this way it will mount flush with no tweak
Hey Greg,

No, I have the orientation of the "S" correct.
The mounting face for the rear screw is about 3mm higher than the front one.
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Old 06-20-2004, 05:48 AM   #12952
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Hey Greg,

No, I have the orientation of the "S" correct.
The mounting face for the rear screw is about 3mm higher than the front one.
yep you are right. i always change the stock screws for this mount. i replace them with much longer screws. i find it eliminates tweak as the longer screws don't shift.
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Old 06-20-2004, 06:00 AM   #12953
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Awww . . . OK, but the longer screws don't really alter the issue.
I just wondered how the Mugen designers figured we could mount a flat piece of plastic at two different levels.
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Old 06-20-2004, 11:35 AM   #12954
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it is not flat it has a rake molded in look at it close
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Old 06-20-2004, 01:21 PM   #12955
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yep....it's not flat.....It is indeed well-designed......maybe it should have a "FRONT--->" molded into it though......many of us have made that mistake....
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Old 06-20-2004, 05:58 PM   #12956
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really all you have to do is look at the instructions when you build the car and it tells you what way to put it on. I know I looked 2 times just to be sure i was installing it correctly. Read your instructions thats what they give them to you for.
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Old 06-20-2004, 05:58 PM   #12957
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Ok, what can be adjusted to get more runtime out of this car? I am running an X12 with a Turbo II pipe, clutch doesn't slip, two speed is almost perfect, top end is perfect, temps at 230 - 240, 30% w/8% oil, stock head shimming, stock plug (r6 I think), and this motor worked great at the Texas Biggie in a NTC3, once it hit this car, it won't make over 5:15 on a tank and that is with me lifting to 75% everytime after it hits second and a Mugen pressure chamber on pressure side and tried fuel side as well with no luck. Always the same result.

I am aware that the some of the Mugen guys are pitting their cars in 5 minute qualfiers, I just want to know what else I could do to help this. I changed the motor and could do 5:45 with the same setup.
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Old 06-20-2004, 06:00 PM   #12958
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If I am not mistaken, if you put that piece in wrong, won't it hit the top of your flywheel anyways?
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Old 06-20-2004, 06:04 PM   #12959
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Quote:
Originally posted by David Joor
Ok, what can be adjusted to get more runtime out of this car? I am running an X12 with a Turbo II pipe, clutch doesn't slip, two speed is almost perfect, top end is perfect, temps at 230 - 240, 30% w/8% oil, stock head shimming, stock plug (r6 I think), and this motor worked great at the Texas Biggie in a NTC3, once it hit this car, it won't make over 5:15 on a tank and that is with me lifting to 75% everytime after it hits second and a Mugen pressure chamber on pressure side and tried fuel side as well with no luck. Always the same result.

I am aware that the some of the Mugen guys are pitting their cars in 5 minute qualfiers, I just want to know what else I could do to help this. I changed the motor and could do 5:45 with the same setup.

David,
A fuel filter, Very very, very large fuel filter.....
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Old 06-20-2004, 06:15 PM   #12960
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Vad - I already tried the Mugen Pressure Chamber on the fuel side, you can't find a larger chamber, at least 5cc, still no changes.

What pipes does everyone use in general? I am thinking I should have gotten the Mugen EFRA 2601, is that better milage than a Turbo II?
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