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Old 06-11-2004, 12:27 PM   #12811
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Quote:
Originally posted by elmar66
Well, my wonderful wife has blessed me with a brand new Mugen MTX-3. It's not the Prospect, but she got a HECK of a deal on it, compliments of E-bay!!!

I am looking at a motor for it, I am not going high end right now, trying to keep my costs down.

I am considering the OS motor, but don't know what the difference is between:

O.S. .12 TR w/10J Slide-Valve Carb
or the
O.S. .12 TR (P) w/10J Slide-Valve Carb

What does the (P) denote?

Also, what are some of the first Hop Ups to consider?
Elmar,

You gotta do the front universals. The upgraded brake is a must and the titanium middle shaft helps.

Thanks
www.twistertires.com
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Old 06-11-2004, 02:12 PM   #12812
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Originally posted by racinghobbies
Elmar,

You gotta do the front universals. The upgraded brake is a must and the titanium middle shaft helps.

Thanks
www.twistertires.com
my mate ran dog bone for 6 months with no probs!! just use orings to space en out of the one way
std brake is OK and middle shaft is not a necessity
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Old 06-11-2004, 04:46 PM   #12813
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bandeira
Hello guys...

I was taking a look at the Serpent Website and regarding clutch adjustments they say that the clutch housing should have minimal play, acquired but putting some shims between the bearing and the spring collar..

But I didn't see any Mugen guy playing with this endplay in mugen clutches. Assuming that both clutches are supposingly equal, if not, very similar, what this adjustment would bring?

Have you guys tryed this in our mugen clutches?

cheers...
i run my clutch with around 1mm of shims between the bearing and spring collar and then shim the bell to have just enough movement to spin freely this method allows for consistant clutch engagement as it is in a set position and does not rely on the bell sliding in and out which can be different depending on whether it moves freely every time,give it a try you wont be dissapointed
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Old 06-12-2004, 01:35 AM   #12814
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Quote:
i run my clutch with around 1mm of shims between the bearing and spring collar and then shim the bell to have just enough movement to spin freely this method allows for consistant clutch engagement as it is in a set position and does not rely on the bell sliding in and out which can be different depending on whether it moves freely every time,give it a try you wont be dissapointed
can you post a picture?
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Old 06-12-2004, 01:36 AM   #12815
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Default shifting point

What is a good point at wich to sift..
my car seems slow because its sifting way too early..(in the infield..)
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Old 06-12-2004, 02:41 AM   #12816
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Default Re: shifting point

if you want your 2 speed to shift a bit later then just simply tighten both set screws, 1/4 turn a time until it shifts to your liking..

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
What is a good point at wich to sift..
my car seems slow because its sifting way too early..(in the infield..)
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Old 06-12-2004, 04:17 AM   #12817
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
can you post a picture?
i will do a pic as soon as i can hopefully tommorrow
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Old 06-12-2004, 05:16 AM   #12818
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Quote:
Originally posted by vadn1
If you get a chance grab an issue of Xtreme RC car magazine, this month as a set up by Robbie Collins on the Mugen MTX-3. He recommends going with a B block and tells under what circumstances to change to the A or C. Grab one issue, it helps in other areas of the car also. Great to have in the Tool box when out at the track working on setup...
any chance of some one scanning it and emailing it to me? can not get it in the UK
thanks
Mark
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Old 06-12-2004, 06:36 AM   #12819
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Quote:
if you want your 2 speed to shift a bit later then just simply tighten both set screws, 1/4 turn a time until it shifts to your liking..
Careful......the set-screws set the clearance of the clutch shoes to the 2-speed housing (See the manual for details).......they are different than the "Adjustment" screws.......

The 2-speed adjustment screws are the screws that do-NOT go straight in and hit the center of the shoes......(the screws that go straight-in are the set-screws).........To change the shift point.....adjust the OFF-centered screws that appear to be "angled" into the shoes......notice that the hole in the housing to adjust them is "angled" also....it should be clear.....(when you're on the right screw....and your wrench is locked-on and ready to tighten....the shaft of the wrench should NOT be pointed at the center of the assembly.)

Loosen both adjustment screws equally to make shifting earlier and tighten equally to make it later.

Quote:
run my clutch with around 1mm of shims between the bearing and spring collar and then shim the bell to have just enough movement to spin freely this method allows for consistant clutch engagement
Not that I've had a problem with inconsistent engagement.....but this sounds like a great idea...simply have to change the way I measure the clearance.....can't measure it anymore, can you?
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Old 06-12-2004, 11:01 AM   #12820
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Quote:
Originally posted by chookgb
i run my clutch with around 1mm of shims between the bearing and spring collar and then shim the bell to have just enough movement to spin freely this method allows for consistant clutch engagement as it is in a set position and does not rely on the bell sliding in and out which can be different depending on whether it moves freely every time,give it a try you wont be dissapointed
If you're adding the shims between the collar and bearing, where else are you adding shims to for the bell? Thats where I shim also(between bearing and collar) I thought that was how it was told in the instructions.
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Old 06-12-2004, 02:14 PM   #12821
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put shims between the clutch bell bearing abd crank nut until the bell does not drag when pushed towards the engine, then ad shims to the thrust race to adjust!
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Old 06-12-2004, 04:24 PM   #12822
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Hi guys,
Need a bit of help with the Kawahara solid axel adpter kit.
Basicaly I fit the adapter, the 16 touth pully and new shorter belt. Is this right?

Well basically the mesh is wrong somewhere. When I push the car along the ground the belt slips or clicks as if the one set of wheels is spinning faster than the other.

Am I missing a part of this conversion? Does anybody know what might be wrong?

Thanks
NeoRacer.
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Old 06-12-2004, 08:56 PM   #12823
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Post office found my package. I am ready to build the Prospec. If anyone has done the prospec and came across anything while building that i should be aware of, please let me know. Thanx.
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Old 06-12-2004, 09:55 PM   #12824
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Quote:
Originally posted by chookgb
i run my clutch with around 1mm of shims between the bearing and spring collar and then shim the bell to have just enough movement to spin freely this method allows for consistant clutch engagement as it is in a set position and does not rely on the bell sliding in and out which can be different depending on whether it moves freely every time,give it a try you wont be dissapointed
Which part do you shim first? Do you shim endplay then shim the inside where the spring collar and bearing meet? I have always had problems with my clutches not being consistent. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 06-12-2004, 10:33 PM   #12825
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Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
Which part do you shim first? Do you shim endplay then shim the inside where the spring collar and bearing meet? I have always had problems with my clutches not being consistent. Any help is appreciated.
Start from the inside with about 1mm washer I use a washer from oan old thrust race bearing its a good place to start.then shim so the clutch bell does not have much side ways movement but still spins freely.
if to tight will destroy the thrust race bearing.
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