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Old 06-10-2004, 12:59 AM   #12796
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Default Hi Guy's and Gal's..

Wow it's great to see so many new MTX 3 owner's... Welcome!... Sorry, (Marine) and I havent been around in a while but he's been moving around alot and Ive been a faithfull wife... But we did get to spend a couple of day's at the Texas Biggie.. That was a blast! Congrat's on All the drivers who raced.!! We will be heading to Austin to race next weekend so if you guy's want to meet up.. send me a pm... thanx..R.
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Old 06-10-2004, 06:01 AM   #12797
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Default Re: BACKWARDS

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
I do believe that you have that backwards A in the front and B in the rear is called pro squat! The other way around is anti squat.
Anti squat in the rear will cause the car to square off the corner late in the apex or shortly after.
Yes, thanks, I had it round the wrong way.

I guess it's all a matter of terminology depending on your neck of the woods.
For instance, I would refer to a rasied front pin position as "positive" anti-squat, and this should limit weight transfer to the rear, yeah.

So, what I meant to type was:
Has anyone tried, a rear "A" block with a front "B" block to generate some positive anti-squat?
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Old 06-10-2004, 06:02 AM   #12798
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Well I can happily report that I have no idea what you are talking about

But HPI does also agree with your theory.............

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in.../Pro4_pg33.jpg

They also say move lower pin down on high traction surfaces.

Serpent and XRAY however disagree with this advice and say to go the completely opposite way. I am starting to wonder whether there are some car specific effects which override the general rule.
Moving the lower pivot point does change how the suspension reacts a little but, this is not the full reason for changing the rollcenter in the rear.

Did you notice that HPI recommends that you raise the rollcenter with the camberlinks for high bite tracks only to tell you to lower the rollcenter with the lower blocks? Interesting...

The XRay guys learned a pretty big carpet/foam tire lesson at Cleveland this year. I was at the warm-up race when the XRay guys started flipping. The all raised the rollcenters on their cars when the traction came up and it made their cars tractionroll worse.

In the end, you can run whatever rollcenter location that you find makes the car handle the best unless the car starts tractionrolling. If there's so much traction that the car flips before it leans into the turn it's time to lower the rollcenter. Rollcenter is not the first thing to change if you're flipping though.
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Old 06-10-2004, 08:34 AM   #12799
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I think that sometimes too much is weight is placed on roll centre, ( ) it would be interesting to see those diagrams with the chassis rotated 5 degrees or so. I think that sometimes it's the arc scribed by the arms and links that makes the car handle differently. For us mortals the stock setting is pretty good on most club tracks.
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Old 06-10-2004, 04:28 PM   #12800
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I wonder, should i buy the Prospec, or will Mugen release MTX4 within april next year???
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Old 06-10-2004, 07:50 PM   #12801
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Smile

Well, my wonderful wife has blessed me with a brand new Mugen MTX-3. It's not the Prospect, but she got a HECK of a deal on it, compliments of E-bay!!!

I am looking at a motor for it, I am not going high end right now, trying to keep my costs down.

I am considering the OS motor, but don't know what the difference is between:

O.S. .12 TR w/10J Slide-Valve Carb
or the
O.S. .12 TR (P) w/10J Slide-Valve Carb

What does the (P) denote?

Also, what are some of the first Hop Ups to consider?
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Old 06-10-2004, 07:54 PM   #12802
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I would have had my prospec yesterday but the postal service LOST THE PACKAGE. IDIOTS!!!!
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Old 06-10-2004, 07:57 PM   #12803
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Quote:
Originally posted by elmar66
Well, my wonderful wife has blessed me with a brand new Mugen MTX-3. It's not the Prospect, but she got a HECK of a deal on it, compliments of E-bay!!!

I am looking at a motor for it, I am not going high end right now, trying to keep my costs down.

I am considering the OS motor, but don't know what the difference is between:

O.S. .12 TR w/10J Slide-Valve Carb
or the
O.S. .12 TR (P) w/10J Slide-Valve Carb

What does the (P) denote?

Also, what are some of the first Hop Ups to consider?
Congrats!, first thing to get is the front universals otherwise you will have to look for the front missing dogbones all the time on the track.

(P) denotes pilot shaft, you will have to run the pilot shaft in the Mugen.
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Old 06-10-2004, 08:09 PM   #12804
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Default Diff Oil

There's alot of good information being shared here and I am greatful for all inputs.

Regarding Differential fluid, how does using thicker or lighter fluid in the diff effect how the car perform? For instance, I am currently using 30K in the front and 10K in the rear. If I were to go lighter in the front, how would that effect the car? Same question for if I were to put thicker to the rear, how would that effect the car.
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Old 06-10-2004, 08:20 PM   #12805
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The thicker the oil, the more the diff will behave like a solid.
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Old 06-11-2004, 05:10 AM   #12806
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
The thicker the oil, the more the diff will behave like a solid.
May i ask what are the advantages of having a solid diff or a loose diff? and what are the disadvantages of them please, Ta

Quote:
Originally posted by spawn

(P) denotes pilot shaft, you will have to run the pilot shaft in the Mugen.
I thought mugens and RR evo etc... use SG cranks and that pilot shafts are for cars like VoneS's?
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Old 06-11-2004, 06:52 AM   #12807
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Default Pilot Shaft or No Pilot Shaft?

Has anyone determined which motor is needed for the MTX-3?

Thanks!

Elmar
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Old 06-11-2004, 06:52 AM   #12808
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Pilot shaft and SG crank are two names for the sme thing.
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Old 06-11-2004, 07:15 AM   #12809
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Thanks for the clarification!!!!
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Old 06-11-2004, 10:06 AM   #12810
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Default

Hello guys...

I was taking a look at the Serpent Website and regarding clutch adjustments they say that the clutch housing should have minimal play, acquired but putting some shims between the bearing and the spring collar..

But I didn't see any Mugen guy playing with this endplay in mugen clutches. Assuming that both clutches are supposingly equal, if not, very similar, what this adjustment would bring?

Have you guys tryed this in our mugen clutches?

cheers...
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