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Old 05-30-2004, 02:47 PM   #12511
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quick question,


I am building my prospec, and I noticed that the servo saver has three different plates to where you attach the tie rods; A, B, C. Can someone please tell me when to use one over the other?

thanks,
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Old 05-30-2004, 05:30 PM   #12512
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I would suggest A blocks in the rear and the B blocks on the servo saver. These are varying amounts of ackerman...where one wheel turns more than the other.
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Old 05-30-2004, 05:31 PM   #12513
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Oh yeah, it was good meeting you today Bivens....we'll see each other again, soon, I'm sure.
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Old 05-30-2004, 05:36 PM   #12514
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Quote:
Originally posted by theRED5
I would suggest A blocks in the rear and the B blocks on the servo saver. These are varying amounts of ackerman...where one wheel turns more than the other.
I see all you guys lowering the the real roll center and giving less ackerman, both intending to get more steering off power, entering turns...
While I have problems with that... 'cause I've always struggled to make my rear end 'sit' when entering turns... Now I managed to do it but after working hard...

By the way, you guys mount the rear comber link on the outter or inner hole?

cheers...
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Old 05-30-2004, 05:58 PM   #12515
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if you want the rear to stay planted into turns use the front anti roll bar and stiffen it a little.
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Old 05-30-2004, 07:57 PM   #12516
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
if you want the rear to stay planted into turns use the front anti roll bar and stiffen it a little.
It is not as simple as it suposingly looked like...

I had to play a lot with rear roll center, rear sway bars and everything to get my car dialed, not a simple front swaybar solving the problem...
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Old 05-30-2004, 08:15 PM   #12517
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Quote:
It is not as simple as it suposingly looked like...

I had to play a lot with rear roll center, rear sway bars and everything to get my car dialed, not a simple front swaybar solving the problem...

ok...
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Old 05-30-2004, 08:42 PM   #12518
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
ok...
But I am sure he appreciates the reply none the less.
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Old 05-30-2004, 11:35 PM   #12519
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See it's diferent strokes I guess, the first thing I do when the rear is drifting mid corner is to harden the front sway bar.
I use the outside hole with 3mm under the outside of the camber link. But I use Kawahara tyres and they're probably different to what you're using. Yesterday I raced on 35s front and rear and you have traction rolling issues.

Last edited by rjl; 05-30-2004 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 05-31-2004, 12:46 AM   #12520
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Same here, I use the outer link mounting and both washers above the rear uprights. And I run 40 or 42 fronts and 37 rears.

Bandiera, did the tip I PM'ed you help with the traction rolls?
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Old 05-31-2004, 04:28 AM   #12521
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc_alan
I asked both Team drivers Robbin Collins and Mike Swauger two weeks ago at a club ran here in SoCal, about when the MTX4 would be coming out... both said most likely next year... No one has even seen the car... You still can't even get your hands on the MRX4 until late June if not July 04... Enjoy your MTX3's everyone cause it's going to be awhile til we really see the next new thing in 1/10 scale on road from Mugen... All is not bad though... No one's beating the Mugen right now anyways...

RC_Alan
there is no way the MTX4 is gonna be out next year..
judging from Mugen's way of doing things the MTX3 will be around for another year or 2 .. till the release cad drawings of the car kit... just like the MRX4.
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Old 05-31-2004, 08:22 AM   #12522
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Thanks guys.

Yes, better late than never, but we were determined not to be labeled a sheep.
But no, not a ProSpec, just the garden variety one. I figured just CV's and the teflon pads were all that was "needed" . . . . . Oh, and Kawahara wheel nuts.

For those that don't know, I'm the father/sponser/pitman and my son is the driver. We usually run an EVO and just had the first run yesterday with the MTX-3.
I think I like the car, but my drivers first words still have me chuckling - "Massive understeer, beautifull brakes."
And after the first run I noticed binding in the rear that turned out to be the placcy wheel hexes - they didn't last long. Luckily I had some ally ones and installed them at the track. Also, I received the 16/19 conversion belts from evlhdlts on Friday, just in time - thanks, Jo. Given that all our tyres are trued for a 4mm split, this was lucky and helped gain a little steering. With some help from rjl, we found a little more.
I figure if we just burn a heap of fuel and tyres, this car will be pretty good.
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Old 05-31-2004, 08:25 AM   #12523
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Thats good news for me I just got a MTX3. Saturday was the first run on the car and it is great. Very mellow and easy to drive. Also very planted. I got it with the MR12 and it doesn't feel very ballistic. It does't seem to have a lot of low end or top end. All gearing is stock and the track was 160' x 70'. Any suggestions, Should I go with different gears or a pipe. It has the Rex pipe now and I have a RD Logics Turbo 2 at track. Otherwise car was dialed.
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:16 AM   #12524
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
ok...
Sorry Profoxcg...

After reading my post again I noticed that i was harder than I wanted to be (not hard at all)

sorry...
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:21 AM   #12525
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Quote:
Originally posted by theRED5
Same here, I use the outer link mounting and both washers above the rear uprights. And I run 40 or 42 fronts and 37 rears.

Bandiera, did the tip I PM'ed you help with the traction rolls?
sorta... As I found myself a way of getting rid of it, i didn't pay mush attention to it.. hehehe sorry... but i remember it needed very little ride height, didn't it? BUt at the track I race I need plenty of ride height....

If I wanted to use 40tyres all around, I would have to get the camber link with no sims for me to be able to drive the car.... otherwise I would get too much steering entering the turn..
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