Varuth

I haven't tried that much yet. But it seems faster than before. I'll let you know for the proformance. Thanks Data.

Varuth

Castel Question?

When they say 2mm caster, what do they mean? Also, the higher number, e.g. 2mm. mean less castel than 1mm?

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

That guy seems to be happy that the MUGENS kicked his Serpent ass all over the track!

darkangel

when they say 2mm for castor, they mean you put 2 1mm shims in front of the upper arm. This will give you approx. 10 degrees or so of castor. The more castor (more slanted backwards) you have, the better the steering is mid corner. The less castor (more vertical), the better initial turn in. I found that the more vertical the upright is, the lazier the car feels in corners. At least that has been my experience.

Umm, they only had 16 1/10 scale drivers there. That is almost half of our normal turnout for 1/10 at our track.

GAMBO94

Umm, they only had 16 1/10 scale drivers there. That is almost half of our normal turnout for 1/10 at our track. [/B][/QUOTE]

Here in Puerto Rico we have 14 Mains of 1/10,, 9 Drivers in each main,,and 2 Mains of 1/8...

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

Nice article...So much for that BIG Serpent tuning sweet spot


BTW,In our first "informal" racing session in NJ,both 710's broke...and that was from getting nudged and flipped by tc3's no less....

Roger

iTrader: (10)

I heard about your 3mm chassis. Do you have a pix of it ? Thx.

rattlr2

iTrader: (3)

can anybody tell me what rebound stop is? is it the same as setting droop/ information about setting mtx3 is very slim

chookgb

iTrader: (29)

my prospec ready for action

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

To all the mothers on R/C Tech, Have a happy Mothers day!

Nitropimp

Roger- This is my ETW Prototype 3mm chasis. Looks almost like the Kawahara. I love the color a gun blue. Next week she'll be getting a NEW 4mm for the Fish. hehe

chookgb- SWEET. Nice looking car!!

Taylor-Racing

But Mothers day was yesterday!

Bandeira

Hello Guys...

Just came from a day of testing at the track I'm gonna race in two weeks(700km away from home)... But there was not enought time do the the testing I was supposed to because it rained... So now I ask for your help...

I couldn't test different Ackerman Blocks... What are the differences bettween them... as well as the rear suspension block... Should the C give more side bite and body roll than A?

I also needed more steering exiting the turn... maybe next time I'll run heavier diff oil at the rear... By the way.. What oil you guys using in the rear diff(using one-way at front)?

I should really work to get more stability under braking... but my rear downstops are really very low already...I find it very strange to run the rear lot higher to get braking stability...

I think my car now is just on the right way... I used blue springs all around but the car felt a bit too slow in the turns... maybe I'll try something harder next time...

Anybody with any suggestion to solving my problems?

Thanks a lot in advance for any possible feedback...

...cheers...

Bivens

A light turnout....but....not bad for the first weekend racing the MTX-3...This may be a long post, but I'll first summarize my results and then some notes about the car and setup.......


The first round of our Tri-state series was held this weekend in Huntsville, AL. I took 2 MTX-3's with me down from Knoxville, TN. Friends that went with me had a Serpent 710 and an HPI R40. The others were getting around well also, but I really found out what kind of car I had in my Mugen's......I hadn't raced since February....and no nitro racing since last october....but I managed a 3rd in the first round, about 5 seconds back from the leader.......a win in the 2nd round with a MUCH faster TQ than round 1's time (2 laps faster, and 1 1/2 laps over 2nd place).....and another win in heat 3 but not a faster TQ.....I went on to overcome a BAD start and unorganized pitting to pull off the win in the 20 minute main.......

The only thing left outstanding was turning the fast lap for the day.....I've been trying to talk another friend into buying the stock MTX-3, and thanks to a little trouble with his electric touring, he ran my 2nd car in Nitro and dropped out of electric for the weekend. I wasn't slow, but my friend running my almost box-stock backup car with less horsepower took the fast-lap honor.............(by the end of the day, the car was SOLD... )

What a great car

Some Notes......

3racing CVD's are JUNK.....I broke 2 in practice......had to put dogbones back in the rear to free-up some spare CVD's.... (I was running a locked-front diff)

Broke 1 steering block......

The LARGE front bumper is great......I highly recommend......Cut it to fit just inside the body and cut the foam to hug the inside of the body also.......VERY durable

The 16/19 conversion with about a 3.5mm split is MUCH better for even tire-wear (front vs. rear) than the stock belts (my fronts never got too large compared to the rears....no matter how much I ran, the split stayed reasonably close to providing a non-overdriven condition, while in a couple of practice weekends the last few weeks, my rears ALWAYS wore significantly faster than the fronts with the stock belts) This is the way to go for me...... I was even running 37 fronts with 35 rears and didn't get an overdrive condition due to tire wear.

One more comment.....the rear traction was POOR this weekend and I had WAY too much horsepower.....I saw some suggestions here from Cartman when he was racing on rubber tires in the UK about cutting down the rear uprights to lower the roll-center and get more rear-traction exiting corners........I was the only sucker cutting on a high-dollar car with a razor-saw this weekend.....but that change was the single best adjustment I made, even though it is a rubber-tire trick.....it can be considered on Foams in low-traction situations. My upper link is almost horizontal now......imagine that ...it's almost too-much angle for the stock ball-ends to handle if the suspension drops really low with smaller tires.....

Cutting about 2mm from the top of the rear uprights and using the top-hole in the Kawahara tower with A-A lower blocks gave me about the max rear traction I could get by changing the roll-center......Worked like a charm.....don't be afraid to pull out all the stops and try some wierd things, as long as you understand what you're trying to accomplish.......

Also dropping the rear-shock oil down a little from the stock setting helped stick the rear on corner exit.....but the single best thing to help here is to simply be smooth on the trigger.....None of that silly throttle blipping that you hear a lot of people doing.....smoother is required when traction is poor. Roll into the throttle smoothly and calmly without pulling the trigger hard. A nice progressive weight transfer combined with smoothly picking up the throttle is the key.

Jonathan

iTrader: (2)

Hi Bandeira

Here are some suggestions.

First and foremost, make sure you have the right choice of tires... cuz none of it matters if you have the wrong tires. So ask what others are running or experiment.

For Ackerman, the A gives the most throw. The C is a little quicker initially but has less overall steering. The B is in between. I usually run the A unless the track is huge and wide open.

Roll center. Yes the C has the most roll and thus more mechanical traction. It's really only good when traction is poor. Otherwise it can cause the inside tire to lift and spin out. Start with B, if bite is high. The A will yeild the most cornering speed. I like the A because most tracks I race have decent traction.

For the diff. 50K Mugen diff oil is a good compromise between off power and on power steering for most tracks.

Stability under braking has a lot to do with tweak. Make sure your droop screws and sway bars are properly adjusted. (Cam in the front and equal length links in the rear. BTW make sure the rear bar isn't bent or better yet, use the Kawahara adustable. it's a lot more consistant.) Another trick is to remove the powder coating at the last coil on the springs. In particular where it flattens into the natural coil. Excess paint can cause two of the same springs to behave differently. If the above is done correctly, you should be able to brake very hard even if there is a lot of weight transfer or rear up travel.

The stock springs are ok. The optional dark blue springs are much better. They seem to make the car more responsive than the stock (especially if you are strapping a lot of HP) , but is a little more... forgiving than the grays. Btw, the stock position feels the best overall in terms of turn in, mid corner and exit steering.

The above is good starting point for most the tracks I've been to.
With this setup, and the right tires, I fine tune with front and rear sways, caster and track width.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Seeya!

Jonathan

Team Mugen