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Old 05-06-2004, 08:15 PM   #11431
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Ok I have some questions for yall. Does anyone know where I could find a spring rate chart for the Mugen MTX-3? Also I know the rear blocks have stuff to do with Roll center and stuff so what is the difference in the A-B-C blocks?
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Old 05-06-2004, 09:28 PM   #11432
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Tighten the spring make the clutch hold longer before getting contact with the bell, harder spring make the movement faster and stronger.
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Old 05-06-2004, 09:49 PM   #11433
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Default new mtx 3

i just assemblem about 85% of my new mtx3 and the onlyt thing i see that is wierd is that the front shocks are very loose as far as compresion? if i back off the coilover the spring just floats around in there, i have to screw the coilover all the way down past the threads just to feel a resistance. is that right or what did i do?

ps yeah the brakes do rub, can i just runn it until it files the pad down or do i need to take them out and sand them?
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Old 05-06-2004, 09:52 PM   #11434
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Default Re: new mtx 3

Quote:
Originally posted by gentleman81
i just assemblem about 85% of my new mtx3 and the onlyt thing i see that is wierd is that the front shocks are very loose as far as compresion? if i back off the coilover the spring just floats around in there, i have to screw the coilover all the way down past the threads just to feel a resistance. is that right or what did i do?

ps yeah the brakes do rub, can i just runn it until it files the pad down or do i need to take them out and sand them?
I have no trouble with the front shocks.. just get them closed tight.. should not be a problem..
the brakes.. yah sand abt 0.5mm of each sides... or just change to the teflon if u like 'em
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Old 05-06-2004, 09:54 PM   #11435
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Default really

about how far is the coilover down on your fronts? with the standard blue springs.
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Old 05-06-2004, 11:28 PM   #11436
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OK...went out racing last weekend..and have tons of problem with radio!! glitching at full throttle!! =( .. this sux!! after I broke 2 steering block....after I hit full throttle!! =( ...any how... I figure it out..what was wrong with the car. That damn...throttle servo was giving me glitch (JR Cheap serov)

Ok...any how...I was out of my right steeing block...so...I decided to put in the left on the right side of the car. Move the steering boll cub upword... and it seem to work.. Is any one ever try this?? I Know I have to change to the right parts but...for now...it 's ok.

I just like to know if any one ever try it this way?? and if so...did u r car drive differencely?? I can't relly tell on my car.
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Old 05-07-2004, 12:00 AM   #11437
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superk were you using KO MARS R? i had problems when i tried to use a jr servo on my throttle.
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:27 AM   #11438
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Default Re: really

Quote:
Originally posted by gentleman81
about how far is the coilover down on your fronts? with the standard blue springs.
depending on the ride height of the car
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:42 AM   #11439
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Default Re: Clutch Springs and weights

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Originally posted by gonzoY5
Can someone explain Clutch springs and flyweights a bit for me? Wouldn't tightening the spring down have the same affect as a harder spring?
And as for the flyweights, do they make the acceleration harder because it takes more RPM to make the clutch engage since they're lighter? Thanks
harder spring shifts the adjustment range towards higher rpm. if you tighten the spring too much (as with a softer spring) to make the clutch to engage at a higher rpm, the spring might reach it's solid height before it get to the point where you want the clutch to engage.
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Old 05-07-2004, 03:42 AM   #11440
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: at last... MRX-4

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Originally posted by eddiethefish
To make money, they would need to redesign everything on the new car
profit through evolution ?

Quote:
start selling part individually, and best of all, jack up the price. They could also try to play the little demand/supply game, buy holding on to the supplies, and you can guess the rest.
two years of r&d cost a lot of money, got to recover the cost somehow

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if the car hit from the front impact, it should make the rear arms broke as well as the frint ones.
come on now, it was just the driver's fault, i think he didn't build the car right to begin with.
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Old 05-07-2004, 06:00 AM   #11441
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Quote:
Originally posted by rranger
That's funny, many TC3 use Mugan clutch while some Mtx use their 2 speed.

Make sure you have evenly adjust both shoes out from the center to have diameter you want.
My TC3 never gave me problems with the 2 speed. I think I am having difficulty with the Mugen 2 speed is because of the gap you have to have by moving the balls onto that metal thing (forgot what its called). If they are to far apart the shoes wont fit into the housing and if they are to close it doesnt shift right. With this 2 speed it has to be exact. In my experience with the TC3 it wasn't as touchy as the mugen. But I'll tell you something else, the Mugen is ALOT better car. I love the way it handles.
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Old 05-07-2004, 06:44 AM   #11442
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The mechanix of how the Mugen 2-speed works is the same as the transmission on a NTC3.....Personally I find it to be more consistent.....

If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.

Ask someone else where you race to let you take theirs off and look at it.....it comes off the shaft with only ONE E-Clip.....(try that with a NTC3... )

I agree with others that said to inspect for stripped screws or damaged shoes also......check those first.
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Old 05-07-2004, 07:34 AM   #11443
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Well said.

Quote:
Originally posted by Bivens
If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.
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Old 05-07-2004, 09:40 AM   #11444
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bivens
The mechanix of how the Mugen 2-speed works is the same as the transmission on a NTC3.....Personally I find it to be more consistent.....

If you're having trouble, tear it down, inspect for worn or damaged (during the building process) pieces and repair or replace. The bottom line with 2-speeds is that you must understand how things are intended to work.....then look for reasons why this isn't happening. It's almost ALWAYS incorrect adjustment of the set-screws or spring-tension screws if everything else is clean and in good working order.

Ask someone else where you race to let you take theirs off and look at it.....it comes off the shaft with only ONE E-Clip.....(try that with a NTC3... )

I agree with others that said to inspect for stripped screws or damaged shoes also......check those first.
Alot of it on my end anyway is because of not understanding this 2 speed. The directions are horrible even with the supplement info on the 2 speed that came with the instructions. I'm going to get another shoe assembly and adjust it correctly. Now that I know where everything is supposed to be it should work better now.
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Old 05-07-2004, 10:31 AM   #11445
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Well, manual is only a "GUIDELINE". One must use the experience and knowledge applied when assembling the car.

Hence, that's why we are ended up overhere.

hehehe

Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
...The directions are horrible...
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