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Old 05-05-2004, 01:32 PM   #11386
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Default Re: Stabillity

Just like what SQUARE has done a long time ago:



Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
... try a spring from a writing pen on your brake rod...
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Old 05-05-2004, 01:34 PM   #11387
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Default Re: Stabillity

Great advice, overall. But, I'd like to suggest doing one setting at a time, so this way you'll know what works and what does not.

Setup according to your driving style, not because it was obtained from the fast guy.

Just my big jumbo mumbo quarters!

best,

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
Bandeira: You could try the teflon brake pads, they are awsome. Also try a spring from a writing pen on your brake rod , instead of fuel tubing, this will give a fade effect to the brakes. Make sure your car is ballanced from left to right, any difference between the two and the car will not brake straight. Also play around with you rear droop setings, you can make the car more or less satable with this seting, also make sure you try to brake in a straight line when possible, untill you get things figured out in your set up.Toe in in the rear will make the car more stable under braking as well as under excelleration. Good luck! Paul......................................
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Old 05-05-2004, 02:33 PM   #11388
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Default Re: Stabillity

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
Bandeira: You could try the teflon brake pads, they are awsome. Also try a spring from a writing pen on your brake rod , instead of fuel tubing, this will give a fade effect to the brakes. Make sure your car is ballanced from left to right, any difference between the two and the car will not brake straight. Also play around with you rear droop setings, you can make the car more or less satable with this seting, also make sure you try to brake in a straight line when possible, untill you get things figured out in your set up.Toe in in the rear will make the car more stable under braking as well as under excelleration. Good luck! Paul......................................
I already use the teflon pads...
'bout the pen spring.. I dont like it... I dont like anything that makes the car react differently from what I input thru the radio...
I do correct my left/right differences with two pair of scales I have...

About the Toe-in... If I increase it, the car would have less steering inside the turn... I found out that it is faster to do smoother braking with less toe-in as you get more turning speed, than the opposite...

cheers... thanks for the replies guys...
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Old 05-05-2004, 03:18 PM   #11389
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Default Re: Re: Stabillity

Gotta find out if this works as claimed.

Quote:
Originally posted by Bandeira
]I found out that it is faster to do smoother braking with less toe-in as you get more turning speed, than the opposite...
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:11 PM   #11390
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Default Two-speed issues

Hi Guys,

Ran my first nitro race on Sunday in Modesto. Again, I had trouble with my MTX-3's two-speed. It was shifting briefly during the first heat, then stopped shifting. I just cleaned it and ran it again today and its not shifting. Its been a challenge since I got it (the two-speed, not the car), and it was nearly impossible to tell if it was shifting to begin with.

Should I get a new one? Or is there a good aftermarket one that is more reliable?

Thanks,

m
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:31 PM   #11391
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i believe that there is a kawahara tranni .. check dinbals rc mart..
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Old 05-05-2004, 06:52 PM   #11392
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Default Re: Two-speed issues

Quote:
Originally posted by fastfred
Hi Guys,

Ran my first nitro race on Sunday in Modesto. Again, I had trouble with my MTX-3's two-speed. It was shifting briefly during the first heat, then stopped shifting. I just cleaned it and ran it again today and its not shifting. Its been a challenge since I got it (the two-speed, not the car), and it was nearly impossible to tell if it was shifting to begin with.

Should I get a new one? Or is there a good aftermarket one that is more reliable?

Thanks,

m
I seriously doubt there is a need for an aftermarket 2speed. The Mugen's 2 speed is great as long as you know how to set it properly.
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Old 05-05-2004, 07:05 PM   #11393
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gurney

Quote:
Originally posted by Slotmachine
GAMB049 A gurney flap is a bend in the top of the wing all the way across it, it is usualy a 90deg. bend leaning forward to catch more air and apply more downforce. It was named after Dan Gurney an Indy car racer that came up with the idea, on real cars they have removeable ones made to diferent sizes.
Paul..............................
I'm interested to try this bended wing on my mtx3.......Can someone assist me on how to do it?. Regard.
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Old 05-05-2004, 08:00 PM   #11394
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Default

Yes, I've set it properly, and repeatedly.

Seems to lose its settings, or only work sporadically.

Cleaned it thoroughly, cleaned the metal cup it fits into, only to get shifts for about a minute, after that, nothing.

Anyone experience anything similar?

Junito: do you have a link? Google didn't get any hits.

m
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Old 05-05-2004, 10:16 PM   #11395
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Default Tire offset

I know this question has been asked here many times before, but I couldn't find it in previous posts, what offset tires do you use with the Mugen?
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Old 05-06-2004, 02:38 AM   #11396
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Default Re: Tire offset

Quote:
Originally posted by DocSafety
I know this question has been asked here many times before, but I couldn't find it in previous posts, what offset tires do you use with the Mugen?
you use 2 offset
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Old 05-06-2004, 03:18 AM   #11397
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Default 2 speed issues

i recently went from a jps3 to a nsrs3.

my two speed settings were not changed.

the PROBLEM is that 3 times in one race day, my 2 speed clutch system got stuck in second. ie did not disengage. why is this?

the car is 1 year old.

i noticed the small copper cylinders that go over the small two speed screw that adjusts the shift timming was stuck on the shoe on one end. ie; the action of tightening the screw pushed the copper cylinder into one of the shoes. BUT ONLY SLIGHTLY. i had to remove it with some pliers.

ANYONE HAD THESE ISSUES?

or is the motor too powerful?

also on the same day i changed motor clutch shoes and spring. i went to a grey shoe with a new spring.

IS THIS THE ISSUE?????!

PLEASE PM THE ANSWER IF YOU CAN.
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Old 05-06-2004, 04:16 AM   #11398
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The two speed problem you have is that the gap between the two speed shoes is too small and the cam has over rotated and stripped the thread for the grub screws. You need new shoes and when you next assemble them make sure you set with .5mm gap. If the clutch bell itself is worn this gap may need to be larger.
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Old 05-06-2004, 04:27 AM   #11399
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjl
The two speed problem you have is that the gap between the two speed shoes is too small and the cam has over rotated and stripped the thread for the grub screws. You need new shoes and when you next assemble them make sure you set with .5mm gap. If the clutch bell itself is worn this gap may need to be larger.
geez ok, thanks rjl. when one of the grub screws was screwed out it did come out with some plastic around the threads the metal cam that the small balls come in contact with and that holds the 2 speed pin also had arounded edge to it were the small ballover rotated

do you recon i have to put thread lock on the small grub screws or will this ruin the shifting mechanism?
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Old 05-06-2004, 04:36 AM   #11400
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
geez ok, thanks rjl. when one of the grub screws was screwed out it did come out with some plastic around the threads the metal cam that the small balls come in contact with and that holds the 2 speed pin also had arounded edge to it were the small ballover rotated

do you recon i have to put thread lock on the small grub screws or will this ruin the shifting mechanism?
the wear on the metal cam will cause the 2 speed to lock in 2nd as well as shifting problems i had the same problem,i would say it is time for new 2 speed parts and install as per manual no need for loctite
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