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Old 02-05-2004, 08:14 PM   #9991
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this is what i love the most from this forum!! , fast responses !! , than you very much..
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Old 02-05-2004, 08:19 PM   #9992
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
For as many people that were playing the penguin game on here earlier, I thought SOMEONE would like my picture... guess not. - haha
I like it

haha
just didnt bother to do " " cuz i figured other ppl (esp the friendly MTX-3 thread) would do it
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Old 02-06-2004, 11:36 PM   #9993
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I made my own topic but Evolution figured I should just post it in here where the Pro's are
Going to be ordering a Mugen MTX 3 and was wondering if anybody knew if there were any must have up grades that I should order now and put on the car that will either make it handle better or be stronger? No parts where I live for the MTX 3 so have to order spares and such now that way I'm not sitting on my thumbs when I beak something. So what are the most commonly broken pieces on the MTX 3 and I'll order up some spares of those as well!
Any tips or info that you guys think would help me out with the car please tell. I had a NTC3 a year ago and didn't like it. Constantly changed setup on me. Run good one lap terrible the next. Looking to get back into on-road with something fast and reliable. Just bought a NS12S3 for a $190 shipped to my door! Going to be running on a parking lot with fairly smooth 1 year old ashfault. Should I run foams or rubber tires?
Also getting the Hudy Ultimate Setup System. Do I need that car balancer that Hudy sells? Does it make a difference in handling? How about that Integy Laser car leveler, is something like that necessary for a car to handle awesome? Sorry for all the questions but I just like to have all my eggs in a basket Thanks guys, hope to hear from you soon!

Later...Richard
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Old 02-07-2004, 01:10 AM   #9994
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I posted on the other thread Integy makes a great set up system that aluminum, cheaper and easier to read than Hudy.

This is a REAL racecar that'll win out of the box.
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Old 02-07-2004, 01:23 AM   #9995
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I made my own topic but Evolution figured I should just post it in here where the Pro's are
Going to be ordering a Mugen MTX 3 and was wondering if anybody knew if there were any must have up grades that I should order now and put on the car that will either make it handle better or be stronger? No parts where I live for the MTX 3 so have to order spares and such now that way I'm not sitting on my thumbs when I beak something. So what are the most commonly broken pieces on the MTX 3 and I'll order up some spares of those as well!
Any tips or info that you guys think would help me out with the car please tell. I had a NTC3 a year ago and didn't like it. Constantly changed setup on me. Run good one lap terrible the next. Looking to get back into on-road with something fast and reliable. Just bought a NS12S3 for a $190 shipped to my door! Going to be running on a parking lot with fairly smooth 1 year old ashfault. Should I run foams or rubber tires?
Also getting the Hudy Ultimate Setup System. Do I need that car balancer that Hudy sells? Does it make a difference in handling? How about that Integy Laser car leveler, is something like that necessary for a car to handle awesome? Sorry for all the questions but I just like to have all my eggs in a basket Thanks guys, hope to hear from you soon!

Later...Richard
I ate up the Front and rear belts in a lot pretty quick replaced them with stock replacements no wear showing since... go figure.A set of replacement pulleys (stick with the plastics) TO221 either the Mugen CVD's for the front or a pair of stock Dogbones (Broke 1)F/R are the same. Lots of Rear tires (40 shore for me)and fuel it just keeps going and going. RX are AAA Hump config. I built my own @700mah I think there are some 800's avail. The Car Holds its set up Great nothing like the NTC and the plastic is Way Better. I Haven't Hit anything Hard yet but thats because the car Handles so much tighter then anything else I've driven.
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Old 02-07-2004, 06:39 AM   #9996
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Gold Peak now makes 850 mA AAA cells. I dont think anyone should have a problem with these in long mains anymore.
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Old 02-07-2004, 08:35 AM   #9997
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If your last nitro tc was the ntc3 (was my last too)
you are going to love the mtx3 (if running on prepped/clean surfaces)
this car is so much more durable and holds settings so much more reliably. If I had to pick some spares for the car I would get some extra front uprights and alot of fuel and tires cause with this car you will hopefully go through alot more fuel and tires than with previos cars. The stock set up on the car works great and you can fine tune from there. Good luck and enjoy a great rc car
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Old 02-07-2004, 08:40 AM   #9998
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RED5
I noticed in another post you recomended the aluminum front
sway bar mount (kawahara I guess) Why? what is the benefit
of the aluminum one?
Thank you
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Old 02-07-2004, 01:19 PM   #9999
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Who is selling these Gold Peak batteries?
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Old 02-07-2004, 01:24 PM   #10000
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How much run time are you guys getting out of these AAA packs? What sevo's are you guys running? Is the INtegy just as good as the Hudy? Because I had a Integy before when I had my NTC3 and I would set it up on that, take it to the track it would handle like garbage. Then my friend put it on his Hudy and the settings were way different than what was on my Integy. Have him set it up on the Hudy and then the car would handle good for lap or two. Just wondering as I would prefer to save money and buy the Integy but only if its just as good as the Hudy. Also is it neccessary to buy purchase something like the Integy Laser car balancer? Does it improve handling that much? Thanks.
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Old 02-07-2004, 04:48 PM   #10001
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Do I need the Alloy Wheel Hubs? Anybody heard of the Mugen MUGB0213 Power Pack 900 flat 6V? Just wondering if this pack would offer longer run times over the rest?
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Old 02-07-2004, 07:50 PM   #10002
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fisher890
I ate up the Front and rear belts in a lot pretty quick replaced them with stock replacements no wear showing since... go figure.A set of replacement pulleys (stick with the plastics) TO221 either the Mugen CVD's for the front or a pair of stock Dogbones (Broke 1)F/R are the same. Lots of Rear tires (40 shore for me)and fuel it just keeps going and going. RX are AAA Hump config. I built my own @700mah I think there are some 800's avail. The Car Holds its set up Great nothing like the NTC and the plastic is Way Better. I Haven't Hit anything Hard yet but thats because the car Handles so much tighter then anything else I've driven.
oh you hate alloy pulley too !! its a sin !
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Old 02-07-2004, 07:54 PM   #10003
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
RED5
I noticed in another post you recomended the aluminum front
sway bar mount (kawahara I guess) Why? what is the benefit
of the aluminum one?
Thank you
the alloy sway bar mount hold the eccentric adjustment knob true.
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Old 02-07-2004, 07:56 PM   #10004
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Do I need the Alloy Wheel Hubs? Anybody heard of the Mugen MUGB0213 Power Pack 900 flat 6V? Just wondering if this pack would offer longer run times over the rest?
you need the alloy hex adaptor. with the stock plastic hex, your wheel will not run true as the hex will deform when you have the wheel nut tightened.
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Old 02-07-2004, 08:16 PM   #10005
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
oh you hate alloy pulley too !! its a sin !
Repent now while you still can.
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