any good set ups out there for the mtx-3?

what's wrong with your current set up?

nothing really, slides a little, but i want to try some others. Have any that you are willing to share? I would appreciate it very much!

SBmon
when you hit somthing with the front knuckle, (presuming your using a high torque style servo) the servo stays in place and the saver gives as its suppose to. However most of the time people set the saver too soft and the front end gets shocked to full right or left (sometimes beyond if the hit is hard enough) on an impact. this is what breaks the joint. It is not a twist shock problem it is a bind on overtravel problem. Tightening the saver tight will usually do no harm to a metal geared servo but it will prevent overtravel and save your axles. 99% of the time the axles break it is an impact at full steering lock or close to and the axles bind. No cv type axle will survive an impact in a bound up state no matter who makes them.

Thank you motorman
when you say break the joint you mean actually snapping the joint in two pieces right, what about bending the cvd shaft

That's BS, sorry.

First of all these knuckles are not even heavier than the plastic ones.

Second: What does a two gramm lighter car help you when it breaks in the main?

your right, i prob. should get the alum. knuckles. That will be the next purchase when i break one of the plastic ones. Also you can tell when you crack or break a plastic one but aluminum you really can't tell if its bent

yes you are correct, you can tell that the plastic ones broke when a corner marshall is picking you car from the wall.

The aluminum ones "might" bend (mine haven't after a lot of miles) but they WILL stay on the car and you'll finish!!!

Remember, to finish first, you first got to finish.

i am running the stock set up with the shocks mount at the most lay down position with purple springs:)

if the rear end is loose try to take out the spacers under the camber links on the rear hubs, one by one, that should add some rear stability

stefan
I am aware of those knuckles and looked for somone who might stock them here but found no one. where did you get them from. I wanted a set last year. I need to get a pair.

SB
all of them will bend if you tear off the knuckle, If it gets cocked hard enough it will bend. I twisted a rear CVD out of my MRX3, a fluke but it can happen and I didn't hit anything I just drove over a dot hard on the power and when the rear tire came down the shock of the tire hooking back up broke it. I've bent them all. LOL

CorseR I'm going to run your OD setup this year
thanks.

Dennis,

I got mine from rcmart.com.

I just checked and he doesn't have them listed anymore but I'm sure he can get them for you.

The guy is very accomodating and reliable.

Check his tire prices too.

Motorman thank you
I have yet to break one but like i said i am pretty good at bending them. But I have been straightening them out recently on a vice we'll see if they hold up. One thing is for sure the mugen cvds are still very strong in comparison to what I was previously use to NTC3 alluminum cvd's

:batman: :spidey: :cry: Hey do any of you guys know which steering block to use on a hitec 605 because its not on the manual?I Just got mine used off a mugen driver and its missing one of them but dont know which to by?:spidey: :batman: :cry:

Aluminum Knuckles
 

I saw someone break the entire front right side of his car with those knuckles this past weekend. I would rather break a knuckle than arms and bulkheads. I agree that they may save a knuckle if you have a mild brush with a board, but something has to give. Just my opinion.

What block to use? Just find the ones that work for what servo, and arm you are using. I use different ones than the manual suggested.

Re: Aluminum Knuckles
 

that is exactly the point.