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Old 01-16-2004, 01:16 AM   #9676
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still can't login MSN.....

By the way,there is my new 2004 painting...
it looks like it is a mutated bird !
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Old 01-16-2004, 12:54 PM   #9677
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Hey Guys!

I can smell the nitro of summer coming, only 3 more months...

I've been working on the mtx-3 a little bit lately, prepping it for summer, but it's come time to replace that CVD that I FUBAR'ed a while back. Question is:

Mugen or RDLogics CVD? RDLogics is $10 cheaper, and I havent heard anything about them, so let the beans spill!

btw: remember this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=439261 hehehehe..
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Old 01-16-2004, 05:13 PM   #9678
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Originally posted by TSR6
Mugen or RDLogics CVD? RDLogics is $10 cheaper, and I havent heard anything about them, so let the beans spill!
btw: remember this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=439261 hehehehe..
Mugen definitely! Broke in the past the 3 Racing ones and visually the RD Logic ones seemed the same (or almost the same). Put the Mugen ones and magically all mine problems snapping CVD's were gone.

Now, under many many many litres of fuel under their belts, bought a shaft replacement for them but after a careful inspection and teardown, the spares keep on their bag and the originals were reassembled, probably after Winternats or more after will change. Mugen ones are cheap on the long term.

BTW: How about a warm-up on the Winternats? there are still locations and we plan to do a rctech fest (hehehe.... wouldn't mind to do some races on a hotel corridor? )
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Old 01-16-2004, 05:24 PM   #9679
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Originally posted by Corse-R
Mugen definitely! Broke in the past the 3 Racing ones and visually the RD Logic ones seemed the same (or almost the same). Put the Mugen ones and magically all mine problems snapping CVD's were gone.

Now, under many many many litres of fuel under their belts, bought a shaft replacement for them but after a careful inspection and teardown, the spares keep on their bag and the originals were reassembled, probably after Winternats or more after will change. Mugen ones are cheap on the long term.

BTW: How about a warm-up on the Winternats? there are still locations and we plan to do a rctech fest (hehehe.... wouldn't mind to do some races on a hotel corridor? )
haha, alright, Mugen it is.. I knew to stay away from 3Racing's CVD's, but hadn't heard anything about RD's.

I wish I was going to the Winternats, and I probably would if it weren't for school. I may do some traveling this summer though if I can get my nitro sedan as rockin as my electric sedan. I was looking at the Airtronic's race, because our campus is on spring break during that period, but I would need to be back the day after the race. I'm not sure if that is feasable.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:05 PM   #9680
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
Hey Guys!

I can smell the nitro of summer coming, only 3 more months...

I've been working on the mtx-3 a little bit lately, prepping it for summer, but it's come time to replace that CVD that I FUBAR'ed a while back. Question is:

Mugen or RDLogics CVD? RDLogics is $10 cheaper, and I havent heard anything about them, so let the beans spill!

btw: remember this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=439261 hehehehe..
i dont have this problem even with a couple of hard crashes. I wonder if you have set the servo saver tension too loose and when there is a crash, the steering knuckle will be in full steering position and until the CVD joint breaks.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:16 PM   #9681
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corse-R
Mugen definitely! Broke in the past the 3 Racing ones and visually the RD Logic ones seemed the same (or almost the same). Put the Mugen ones and magically all mine problems snapping CVD's were gone.

Now, under many many many litres of fuel under their belts, bought a shaft replacement for them but after a careful inspection and teardown, the spares keep on their bag and the originals were reassembled, probably after Winternats or more after will change. Mugen ones are cheap on the long term.

BTW: How about a warm-up on the Winternats? there are still locations and we plan to do a rctech fest (hehehe.... wouldn't mind to do some races on a hotel corridor? )
the good side of the 3racing CVD is very cheap and the outdrive pin is very hard to wear. and the bad side of 3racing CVD is that the joint pin is thinner then the mugen one and it will break after extneisve use.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:32 PM   #9682
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
i dont have this problem even with a couple of hard crashes. I wonder if you have set the servo saver tension too loose and when there is a crash, the steering knuckle will be in full steering position and until the CVD joint breaks.
Nah, I caught the sweeper, ripped the whole wheel off, CVD parts and all.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:35 PM   #9683
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
Nah, I caught the sweeper, ripped the whole wheel off, CVD parts and all.
why you caught the sweeper?

I do think the CVD broke before the wheel detached.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:39 PM   #9684
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
why you caught the sweeper?

I do think the CVD broke before the wheel detached.
I kept getting more and more confident for how deep and hard I could drive into the corner without washing out, out steering other cars with the one-way ( they all run spools, or diffs ) ... and WHAM, took it too deep one lap.

teeeheee... I said deep and hard..... teeeheeee
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:44 PM   #9685
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
I kept getting more and more confident for how deep and hard I could drive into the corner without washing out, out steering other cars with the one-way ( they all run spools, or diffs ) ... and WHAM, took it too deep one lap.

teeeheee... I said deep and hard..... teeeheeee
you will definitely go faster with a front oneway axle. we do run the oneway at our medium and tight track.
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Old 01-16-2004, 06:49 PM   #9686
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
you will definitely go faster with a front oneway axle. we do run the oneway at our medium and tight track.
They all say that you can't dive in as deep, but I was doing just that -- Holding it open longer, then braking into the corner. Go figure..
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Old 01-16-2004, 07:08 PM   #9687
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
They all say that you can't dive in as deep, but I was doing just that -- Holding it open longer, then braking into the corner. Go figure..
or they are not running MTX3 !
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Old 01-17-2004, 05:11 AM   #9688
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman
why not buy a kawahara one?
kawahara is like $50 on ace hardware hobbies. but I think k factory is cheaper, isnt it?

Is it worth the money? Or should I stay with the stock rear stabilizer?
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Old 01-17-2004, 06:46 AM   #9689
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For you guys running the 0.8 module gears, what kind of spread can you use without bogging the engine when it shifts? I just bought some to try this year and not sure what the limits are. I can't get out yet to test (WAAAAAAAAY to cold!!!!).
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Old 01-17-2004, 07:05 AM   #9690
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well, i bought a set w/ an 8th tooth spread on the spurs. Its was way to much. So i went up to a 54t. on 2nd and 60t. on 1st. It worked ok, but personally i don't like the 0.8 gears because they always strip. I crank down on all of the screws, but they still manage to get out of alignment. I have never had the problem w/ reg. gearing. I would forget about the 0.8 gears(how long is the straight at the track you run at?) unless the straight away is like more than 200ft.
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