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Old 12-29-2003, 09:58 PM   #9436
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
you need tire split of 4mm between front and rear to start with and at the end of the race day you wont be having a bigger front tire diameter. some other advantages is the smaller front tire wall with less diameter that you have to give you more solid front end while cornering. i do believe with the lower front tire size does affect the front roll centre.
forgive me for sounding out like a real newbie here but isn't this true only for foams. would there be any advantage to the 16/19 conversion if rubber tires were used since there wouldn't be any tire split?

thank you though for all this info as I'm sure it'll somehow serve me in good stead in the future once i do run foams as well.

Last edited by Bong; 12-29-2003 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 12-29-2003, 10:02 PM   #9437
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bong
forgive me for sounding out like a real newbie here but isn't this true only for foams. would there be any advantage to the 16/19 conversion if rubber tires were used since there wouldn't be any tire split?
you are right and i took the assumption that you use foam tire.

for rubber tire, you dont need the 16/19T conversion.
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Old 12-29-2003, 10:18 PM   #9438
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thanks again manticore. really appreciate the sharing of info in this thread.

would you also happen to know just where in this loooooong thread are helpful set up tips for running rubbers.

there aren't too many mtx3's running in my neck of the woods that i can ask help from. most are running ntc3, v1rr, fw05r.
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Old 12-29-2003, 10:20 PM   #9439
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bong
thanks again manticore. really appreciate the sharing of info in this thread.

would you also happen to know just where in this loooooong thread are helpful set up tips for running rubbers.

there aren't too many mtx3's running in my neck of the woods that i can ask help from. most are running ntc3, v1rr, fw05r.
cartman is the man who runs rubber tire in his country. click on his profile and search his posts. he has posted up his settings way back ago here.
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Old 12-30-2003, 02:50 AM   #9440
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bong
thanks again manticore. really appreciate the sharing of info in this thread.

would you also happen to know just where in this loooooong thread are helpful set up tips for running rubbers.

there aren't too many mtx3's running in my neck of the woods that i can ask help from. most are running ntc3, v1rr, fw05r.
check pages 85, 86 and 87. they posted rubber setup for mtx3. may I ask where are you from?
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Old 12-30-2003, 09:20 AM   #9441
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my mtx3 puked a front belt in a qaulify run and took quite a while for me to fix, i missed the next qualifyer(fortunately we had 3 qualifyers that day) Anyway as i was replacing the front belt, it occured to me that if the center block shaft mount could be in two pieces the belt change would have been alot easier (would not have to disassemble center shaft as much, just remove 1 eclip)
Then i found the K-factory center block online. It is made in two pieces for just this reason!, BUT they incorporated a mount for the pipe in the center block piece. The item looks good except for the pipe mount, thats crazy i mean one hard hit on your pipe and this force is then transferred to the center block, which holds the front belt drive shaft(seems like you are asking for trouble with this design). So i figure i migt try it out but not use the pipe mount, and just continue using the oem pipe mount. Or i might just cut the original plastic mount in half w/ my dremmel and voila . Does anyone out there have any experience with this k-factory center mount?
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Old 12-30-2003, 09:26 AM   #9442
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
my mtx3 puked a front belt in a qaulify run and took quite a while for me to fix, i missed the next qualifyer(fortunately we had 3 qualifyers that day) Anyway as i was replacing the front belt, it occured to me that if the center block shaft mount could be in two pieces the belt change would have been alot easier (would not have to disassemble center shaft as much, just remove 1 eclip)
Then i found the K-factory center block online. It is made in two pieces for just this reason!, BUT they incorporated a mount for the pipe in the center block piece. The item looks good except for the pipe mount, thats crazy i mean one hard hit on your pipe and this force is then transferred to the center block, which holds the front belt drive shaft(seems like you are asking for trouble with this design). So i figure i migt try it out but not use the pipe mount, and just continue using the oem pipe mount. Or i might just cut the original plastic mount in half w/ my dremmel and voila . Does anyone out there have any experience with this k-factory center mount?
you can remove the belt on the center block without remove the center block from the main chassis.
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Old 12-30-2003, 09:45 AM   #9443
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yes you can but you are also removing more than one eclip, actually you you would still be completely disassembling the complete shaft to get the belt on
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Old 12-30-2003, 09:55 AM   #9444
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maybe i should try the mrx3 belt
is it alot stronger, is is hard to align since it is wider,
cause my front belt tends to but up against the side of the pulleys a tad
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Old 12-30-2003, 10:09 AM   #9445
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
yes you can but you are also removing more than one eclip, actually you you would still be completely disassembling the complete shaft to get the belt on
there just a few more screws you need to unscrew and i dont think its a big deal !
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Old 12-30-2003, 10:13 AM   #9446
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just a note for those who are using 4mm main chassis. the mid block has become higher and the centers between two pulley has become closer and therefore the front belt will become more loose.
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Old 12-30-2003, 10:26 AM   #9447
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Im not using a 4mm chassis
but how would this affect belt tension
both front bulk head and mid block are still mounted on same plane?
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Old 12-30-2003, 10:29 AM   #9448
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
Im not using a 4mm chassis
but how would this affect belt tension
both front bulk head and mid block are still mounted on same plane?
front bulk head on at 3mm thickness but the mid block is at 4mm thickness. when compare with 3mm chassis, the mid block is lower.
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Old 12-30-2003, 01:48 PM   #9449
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hi
any info or set up tips need for rubber let me know but i may not be a mugen man in 2004!!!
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Old 12-30-2003, 02:51 PM   #9450
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman
hi
any info or set up tips need for rubber let me know but i may not be a mugen man in 2004!!!
Huh???? Converting into the snake world???
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