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Old 11-25-2003, 03:48 AM   #9016
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Quote:
Originally posted by tekrsq
The only tool I know of to adjust the clutch with the bell still on is the allen key. Nothing else will fit in the hole on the bell. Mugen's tool requires the bell to be off. Using the allen key is simple. Just drop it in the hole, rotate the bell or flywheel until it slides into the clutch adjustment nut, then hold the flywheel and rotate the nut. That's the way I adjust all my cars.
The only way!!
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Old 11-25-2003, 04:04 AM   #9017
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Quote:
Originally posted by ND
Hi guys

I think there's a company in the US that make a tool that adjusts the chutch from the outside, I believe the company is called BK............. They also make a front anti-roll bar adjuster that fits the MRX3, not sure if it'll work on the MTX3.

The mugen tool is great but from my knowledge the tool they make means you have to remove the end bell to get to the adjusting nut. With the BK tool you don't need to remove the engine or the end bell

the 0.50 allen wrench that Surge suggested is the cheapest though!!!!! (standard L shaped allen key is good too!)
Hey ND

Got any contact of this Company, I have seen the tools. is good

thanks
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Old 11-25-2003, 04:15 AM   #9018
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I think the tools are from the same guy who does BK fuel, he doesn't have them on his web site but maybe worth an e-mail.

I got mine at the worlds in Cinncinati and they are very good.

Try his site www.bkracingfuel.com

Hope this helps ya
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Old 11-25-2003, 05:16 AM   #9019
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
The tool for adjusting this nut is a Mugen Part.
I like mine set about 8.8 to 8.9 mm.
I also put a drop of lock tight (blue) on the shaft threads, wipe off the excess, before putting the nut on. I've never had one "creep" on me since doing this.
Measured from end of shaft to top of nut?
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Old 11-25-2003, 08:28 AM   #9020
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Becareful measuring from the top of the nut to the end of the crankshaft, 'cause if ya ever remove the fly wheel and then put it back on the nut that holds it on might not go back into the exact same place.

Easyist and most reliable way of measuring is to use a digital caliper and measure from the end of the crank to the top of the nut that holds the flywheel on, then zero the caliper at this measurement. Then measure from the end of the crank to the nut that adjust's the spring tension. This way it doesn't matter if you change anything cause you'll always set the spring tension the same using this method.

You can use a normal caliper and just take the readings then subtract one from the other to give you the same result.

That's the best way I've found to get a consistant setting.
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Old 11-25-2003, 08:45 AM   #9021
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Default Re: clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
ran the mtx3 today , gotta say i like it alot this car seems quite durable compared to what i am use to (ntc3)
but the clutch has been driving me a little crazy First i had it engaging a little to late so i removed the engine took it apart adjusted and put it back on only to find it then engaging a little too early, basically went through this like 4 times to get it too feel right . I sure hope that clutch nut over the spring doesnt
lose its setting now that i finally have it close to right. Has anyone seen the external adjustment tool for this clutch ? who makes it? and how much is it? i know i will still have to take the
engine out of the car but that isn't really that bad.
Small adjustments are key. Mine was pretty close the first time, and I moved less than 1/4 of a turn, and it was pretty damn good.

It may have been engaging still a tad late, but I liked the little punch it had coming out of the corners.
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Old 11-25-2003, 09:14 AM   #9022
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Quote:
Originally posted by ND
Becareful measuring from the top of the nut to the end of the crankshaft, 'cause if ya ever remove the fly wheel and then put it back on the nut that holds it on might not go back into the exact same place.

Easyist and most reliable way of measuring is to use a digital caliper and measure from the end of the crank to the top of the nut that holds the flywheel on, then zero the caliper at this measurement. Then measure from the end of the crank to the nut that adjust's the spring tension. This way it doesn't matter if you change anything cause you'll always set the spring tension the same using this method.

You can use a normal caliper and just take the readings then subtract one from the other to give you the same result.

That's the best way I've found to get a consistant setting.
this is the only way!!!
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Old 11-25-2003, 09:21 AM   #9023
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where can i get red clutch shoes for the 3?
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Old 11-25-2003, 09:51 AM   #9024
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Mugen make the red shoe now, so any hobby shop that does Mugen should have them (not sure on part number) In the UK they are alot more expensive than the black or grey ones though!

Delta also make a red shoe that works well on the MRX3. Although I'm not sure if the Mugen and Delta ones are the same material.
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Old 11-25-2003, 10:09 AM   #9025
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Actually, I think my red clutch shoe is a Delta brand. It's worked great for over 6months now.
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Old 11-25-2003, 10:30 AM   #9026
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Quote:
Originally posted by Surge
Actually, I think my red clutch shoe is a Delta brand. It's worked great for over 6months now.
6 months already? Maybe you should consider replacing it.


Mugen H0769
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Old 11-25-2003, 10:35 AM   #9027
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Quote:
Originally posted by Surge
Your first upgrade should be universals for the front. You can leave the dogbones in the rear since those wheels don't steer. I've tried a few brands of univ. and like the Tobee Craft's you can get from Speedtechrc.com. They're pretty durable at a good price.

I have a Kfactory 4mm chassis and aluminum brake plate but i doubt the brake plate helps any. I bought it because it's blue eye candy. Other than that mine's pretty much stock too. Oh and a red clutch shoe. Mine's a Racer's Choice from Speedline but I think Mugen has one now too. I like it because it engages more firmly than the stock shoe.
Tobee Craft? Well, let me know when the dogbone pin got sharpen, ok? With fast and powerful .12 engine these days, I don't think many things will last as long. Check the car thoroughly, and replace any worn parts at once.
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Old 11-25-2003, 11:28 AM   #9028
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Quote:
Originally posted by ND
Becareful measuring from the top of the nut to the end of the crankshaft, 'cause if ya ever remove the fly wheel and then put it back on the nut that holds it on might not go back into the exact same place.

Easyist and most reliable way of measuring is to use a digital caliper and measure from the end of the crank to the top of the nut that holds the flywheel on, then zero the caliper at this measurement. Then measure from the end of the crank to the nut that adjust's the spring tension. This way it doesn't matter if you change anything cause you'll always set the spring tension the same using this method.

You can use a normal caliper and just take the readings then subtract one from the other to give you the same result.

That's the best way I've found to get a consistant setting.
Right, measure where the placement of the fly wheel comes into play is just not accurate.
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Old 11-25-2003, 11:33 AM   #9029
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Default mtx3 negative diff

FYI guys, I"ve got a brand new Kawahara mtx3 negative diff for sale. Built - never ran...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...896#post604896
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Old 11-25-2003, 11:38 AM   #9030
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Default Micro SS clutch

Do you guys know where can I buy the 4 white shoes for the Kawahara micro (Centax) SS clutch?.

They got melted when I had ploblems with my engine.

Thank you for the info!!

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