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Old 11-24-2003, 01:02 AM   #9001
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedydave
What kind of maintenance does the clutch on the MTX3 require, and how(besides the obvious) will driving an MTX3/nitro tourer compare to driving 1/10 gas trucks and 1/8 buggies(ie, what would the transition be like)? I've been racing gas trucks for about 1 3/4 years, and 1/8 buggies for a little over a year, and was thinking about taking everything from my 1/10 and putting it in an MTX3 when spring rolls around. Anyone here race at LeMans RC in Fremont, CA? That's where I'd most likely be racing. Any other tips for making the transition from offroad to onroad(I'll still be racing offroad, though)? Thanks.
when building the clutch always ensure:

- you have a washer behind the collet
- you have a washer behind the 1st bearing (for the clutch bell)

other than that you only do general maintenance:

- clean and lube bearings
- clean the clutch shoe (use grit paper to make it rough again)
- always lube (black grease) the thrust bearing before you have a session
- check the shims

For me I will just adjust clutch by screwing it in all the way and then releasing 2 full turns as a base setting. Easier than guessing what 0.8 mm is!!!

Difference? I would not take the Mugen for a nice table top jump for sure!!! The Mugen is lovely, you will enjoy it.
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Old 11-24-2003, 01:39 AM   #9002
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Originally posted by tIANcI
Metal pulleys will last longer but they will tend to strip your belts! I was running 8.08 on my first speed and it was hell on the belts with the metal pulleys. They cost a lot more than the plastic ones too.
i have had kawahara pullies on my car all year with no damage and only one side belt and that was only as i raced with my brake pully loose
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Old 11-24-2003, 02:11 AM   #9003
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Quote:
Originally posted by tIANcI
when building the clutch always ensure:

- you have a washer behind the collet
- you have a washer behind the 1st bearing (for the clutch bell)

other than that you only do general maintenance:

- clean and lube bearings
- clean the clutch shoe (use grit paper to make it rough again)
- always lube (black grease) the thrust bearing before you have a session
- check the shims

For me I will just adjust clutch by screwing it in all the way and then releasing 2 full turns as a base setting. Easier than guessing what 0.8 mm is!!!

Difference? I would not take the Mugen for a nice table top jump for sure!!! The Mugen is lovely, you will enjoy it.

i would not put the washer behind the Collete for several reasons, is not in manual, restricts adjustment, moves engine to left of car which is heavier anyway.

do not over lube the bearings, as the lube will come out and go over the shoe.
Mugen cvd grease is the best, very anti fling!
buy some digital callipers and do not guess, the clutch is a valuable tuning tool
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Old 11-24-2003, 02:41 AM   #9004
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman
i would not put the washer behind the Collete for several reasons, is not in manual, restricts adjustment, moves engine to left of car which is heavier anyway.

do not over lube the bearings, as the lube will come out and go over the shoe.
Mugen cvd grease is the best, very anti fling!
buy some digital callipers and do not guess, the clutch is a valuable tuning tool
agree to this suggection, cartman you da man.
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:21 PM   #9005
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Hi guys i have a MTX3 and its stock as a ROCK. i wouldnt mind grabing some option parts for it. What do you think i should put on it.

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Old 11-24-2003, 07:38 PM   #9006
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Mugen cvds frt and rear ,and the gray aluminum wheel hexes and go drive it like you stole it and have a lot of fun"" Good car out of the box
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:39 PM   #9007
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Your first upgrade should be universals for the front. You can leave the dogbones in the rear since those wheels don't steer. I've tried a few brands of univ. and like the Tobee Craft's you can get from Speedtechrc.com. They're pretty durable at a good price.

I have a Kfactory 4mm chassis and aluminum brake plate but i doubt the brake plate helps any. I bought it because it's blue eye candy. Other than that mine's pretty much stock too. Oh and a red clutch shoe. Mine's a Racer's Choice from Speedline but I think Mugen has one now too. I like it because it engages more firmly than the stock shoe.
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:41 PM   #9008
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Oops. forgot about the alum. drive hexes. I agree with rcmike, those are recommended too since they lock to the drive pin.
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:55 PM   #9009
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Default clutch

ran the mtx3 today , gotta say i like it alot this car seems quite durable compared to what i am use to (ntc3)
but the clutch has been driving me a little crazy First i had it engaging a little to late so i removed the engine took it apart adjusted and put it back on only to find it then engaging a little too early, basically went through this like 4 times to get it too feel right . I sure hope that clutch nut over the spring doesnt
lose its setting now that i finally have it close to right. Has anyone seen the external adjustment tool for this clutch ? who makes it? and how much is it? i know i will still have to take the
engine out of the car but that isn't really that bad.
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:59 PM   #9010
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I use a hex wrench. Something like a .050 i think will fit. They're less than $5 at a Hobby Shop
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:02 PM   #9011
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Oh, and make sure you take a measurement of the spring nut to end of clutch nut so you can set it the way you have it. I measure mine to .7mm and it works how I like it every time. I've never had mine adjust itself either.
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:58 PM   #9012
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The tool for adjusting this nut is a Mugen Part.
I like mine set about 8.8 to 8.9 mm.
I also put a drop of lock tight (blue) on the shaft threads, wipe off the excess, before putting the nut on. I've never had one "creep" on me since doing this.
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Old 11-24-2003, 10:34 PM   #9013
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Default Re: clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
ran the mtx3 today , gotta say i like it alot this car seems quite durable compared to what i am use to (ntc3)
but the clutch has been driving me a little crazy First i had it engaging a little to late so i removed the engine took it apart adjusted and put it back on only to find it then engaging a little too early, basically went through this like 4 times to get it too feel right . I sure hope that clutch nut over the spring doesnt
lose its setting now that i finally have it close to right. Has anyone seen the external adjustment tool for this clutch ? who makes it? and how much is it? i know i will still have to take the
engine out of the car but that isn't really that bad.

Weird.

I set up the clutches on two of my cars as per instructions(endplay etc.) and been happy with the performance since with no troubles.
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Old 11-25-2003, 01:15 AM   #9014
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Hi guys

I think there's a company in the US that make a tool that adjusts the chutch from the outside, I believe the company is called BK............. They also make a front anti-roll bar adjuster that fits the MRX3, not sure if it'll work on the MTX3.

The mugen tool is great but from my knowledge the tool they make means you have to remove the end bell to get to the adjusting nut. With the BK tool you don't need to remove the engine or the end bell

the 0.50 allen wrench that Surge suggested is the cheapest though!!!!! (standard L shaped allen key is good too!)
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Old 11-25-2003, 03:44 AM   #9015
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The only tool I know of to adjust the clutch with the bell still on is the allen key. Nothing else will fit in the hole on the bell. Mugen's tool requires the bell to be off. Using the allen key is simple. Just drop it in the hole, rotate the bell or flywheel until it slides into the clutch adjustment nut, then hold the flywheel and rotate the nut. That's the way I adjust all my cars.
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