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Old 10-13-2003, 12:31 AM   #8401
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vinyard
the Dragon D5 looks good.. and not forgetting cheap!!
so this new underwear code name D5 huh...??!!
show me a link to this...will'ya'..
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Old 10-13-2003, 12:32 AM   #8402
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Default Gears

You can also use the MRX3 gears for those big tracks. But if you do, don't use their pinion and spear gear together, just one or the other. I just gear up my pin gear.
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:07 AM   #8403
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Anyone been using the 3 Racing brace/belt tensioner on the left side of the car. I have only run mine twice and the belt tensioner part has fractured and fallen off. No marks on the pipe or manifold so I dont think it was hit from the side.
Are these parts normally fragile or have I ended up with a bad one ?
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:52 AM   #8404
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bob The Builder
Anyone been using the 3 Racing brace/belt tensioner on the left side of the car. I have only run mine twice and the belt tensioner part has fractured and fallen off. No marks on the pipe or manifold so I dont think it was hit from the side.
Are these parts normally fragile or have I ended up with a bad one ?
unfortunatly 3 racing stuff is sometimes not of the best quality.

i have the lightened pulley adapters on my car and have found that they warp when, and if you tighten the grub screw to hard. no offense, but this is one spot i'm going to make sure i put on the screw tightly!

some other racers have found the rear swaybar blades to be too soft even on the hardest setting, and the connection to the brace to have play .

i currently have the front alloy blade holders they're of good quality though, and i also run the 4mm chassis witht he engine mounts. the chassis is heavy but of good strong, rigid quality.

my opinion? stick to static or minimal movement parts. stuff like chassis, front sway bar holders etc when buying 3 racing.

i really don't think you need that brace though. i race on a high speed ultra high traction track (we VHT it) and i found no advantage to have that brace on, OR off. the mtx3 is very strong in the rear area. especially with the 4mm chassis!

ps and don't get me started on the 3 racing cvds! OHHMAAAGAWDBROOO!! THEY SUCK!

Last edited by VenomWorldOrder; 10-13-2003 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:54 AM   #8405
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Bob ... sorry to say that the 3Racing left brace is prone to breaking when you get hit or if you take a bad enough shunt, forget it as it is a waste of money (brace and anti roll bars).

Also, stay away from the front UJs ... they will span easily, get the stock Mugen ones!
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Old 10-13-2003, 12:21 PM   #8406
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Glow plug selection...

I am running Novarossi T5S1 5 port turbo and i live in Bay area, California. I see there are many diffreent types of Novarossi turbo glow plug Long/Short/Hot/Med/Cold C5TC, C5TF etc. Which one i should use? What's the diff between Hot/MeD/Cold and Long/Short plug?

Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2003, 03:53 PM   #8407
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Default 3 racing sway bar

i agree the front sway bar from 3 racing has broken on my car at our recent run nationals my right side bar in the alloy piece broke costing me dearly during qualifying back to mugen for me
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:02 PM   #8408
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Hey guys, I just switched over to the mtx-3 and have a question.

Whenever I put full lock on the steering right or left, there is one place on the cvd that will click or jump slightly. I tried many cvd's and they all do the same. Is there anyway to get rid of this without sacrificing full steering?

Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:11 PM   #8409
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Yea....use the rear universal in front. Or check to make sure you're using the shorter ones up front. Mugen has been packaging them incorrectly. The shorter ones should be up front and the longer ones to the rear.

Quote:
Originally posted by rcpilot
Hey guys, I just switched over to the mtx-3 and have a question.

Whenever I put full lock on the steering right or left, there is one place on the cvd that will click or jump slightly. I tried many cvd's and they all do the same. Is there anyway to get rid of this without sacrificing full steering?

Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:26 PM   #8410
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Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
Yea....use the rear universal in front. Or check to make sure you're using the shorter ones up front. Mugen has been packaging them incorrectly. The shorter ones should be up front and the longer ones to the rear.
All the dogbones on mine are exactly the same length

I dont think there are long v.s short ones
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:47 PM   #8411
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Quote:
Originally posted by US_MATRIX
Glow plug selection...

I am running Novarossi T5S1 5 port turbo and i live in Bay area, California. I see there are many diffreent types of Novarossi turbo glow plug Long/Short/Hot/Med/Cold C5TC, C5TF etc. Which one i should use? What's the diff between Hot/MeD/Cold and Long/Short plug?

Thanks.
here's a good starting point
http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/faqrb...htglowplug.htm

Last edited by RClover; 10-13-2003 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 10-13-2003, 07:48 PM   #8412
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Justrace - you must indeed have gotten some weird stuff, like B my Mugen shafts are all of equal lenght!

RCPilot - if you use the dogbones you will hear the click as the pin at the end rubs against the cup recesses that the pins lock on to. If it is that annoying then narrow your wheel width to about 197mm, best is to just use UJs from Mugen. Hope this helps!
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Old 10-13-2003, 08:46 PM   #8413
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Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
Yea....use the rear universal in front. Or check to make sure you're using the shorter ones up front. Mugen has been packaging them incorrectly. The shorter ones should be up front and the longer ones to the rear.
how can you be so sure? what other mistake has mugen made?
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Old 10-14-2003, 12:42 AM   #8414
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Quote:
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
unfortunatly 3 racing stuff is sometimes not of the best quality.

i have the lightened pulley adapters on my car and have found that they warp when, and if you tighten the grub screw to hard. no offense, but this is one spot i'm going to make sure i put on the screw tightly!

some other racers have found the rear swaybar blades to be too soft even on the hardest setting, and the connection to the brace to have play .

i currently have the front alloy blade holders they're of good quality though, and i also run the 4mm chassis witht he engine mounts. the chassis is heavy but of good strong, rigid quality.

my opinion? stick to static or minimal movement parts. stuff like chassis, front sway bar holders etc when buying 3 racing.

i really don't think you need that brace though. i race on a high speed ultra high traction track (we VHT it) and i found no advantage to have that brace on, OR off. the mtx3 is very strong in the rear area. especially with the 4mm chassis!

ps and don't get me started on the 3 racing cvds! OHHMAAAGAWDBROOO!! THEY SUCK!
You still racing your Mugen Tommy?
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Old 10-14-2003, 02:38 AM   #8415
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Ummmmmm..........

Uhhhhh...........

All of a sudden, i'm thirsty for milk.

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