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Old 09-22-2003, 10:07 AM   #8086
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CVD ripped? That sounds me to 3Racing universals... Anyway, next weekend have a National Round in 1/8 (27/28) and 4/5 Nov the last in 200mm.

After this, unless I engage in some weekend run at mine local track, cars should be kept in dry until the next season and go to the indoor season (Pan cars in carpet rule ) starts to make cold, windy and probably damp conditions.
Nope! It was a mugen CV, but I ripped the whole wheel off the car, which in turn broke the CVD. I think I posted a picture at one point.. I'll see if i can dig it up.
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Old 09-22-2003, 10:09 AM   #8087
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Nope! It was a mugen CV, but I ripped the whole wheel off the car, which in turn broke the CVD. I think I posted a picture at one point.. I'll see if i can dig it up.
Found!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=439261 ..heh...heh...
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Old 09-22-2003, 07:35 PM   #8088
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Found!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=439261 ..heh...heh...
It "looks" fast !
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Old 09-23-2003, 05:42 AM   #8089
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i just recently purchased the fine pitch mugen gears, but find the difficult to mesh. how do you get it right without the gears stripping. i used the paper technique but found it created too much space (news paper)
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:35 AM   #8090
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i just recently purchased the fine pitch mugen gears, but find the difficult to mesh. how do you get it right without the gears stripping. i used the paper technique but found it created too much space (news paper)
Hehehe.... if you find difficult to mesh the 0.8 gears on the Mugen, try to do it with 64 pitch gears on a 1/12...

I have a little trick, I loosen the 4mm screw from the exhaust hanger and remove the 1st gear spur. I mesh the 2nd gear letting some air between (is easier to mesh the second), then tighten the 4 screws that holds the engine and if you did it straight, 1st spur gear should slide without a problem and perfectly meshed.

P.S: Don't forget to put the E-clip on the gearbox if you don't want to launch gearbox parts on your first shift. Saw it a pair of times and is ashaming
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Old 09-23-2003, 08:54 PM   #8091
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Talking ran the car for the first time

I ran the car for the first time this past weekend. The car ran very well. Couple of questions. The car is box stock with the stock settings, MR-12 engine, RD Logics 61215L pipe. The track is indoor ashpault treated with VHT. Ran 37 all around with the Protoform new Stratus.

The track is kinda small, 100x60.

What pipe can I change to that will give more torque?

There are two sweepers - comming onto the straight, the other off the straight. THe car has bad on power push on both of those sweepers. It was almost perect everywhere else. How do I fix?

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:09 PM   #8092
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Default Re: ran the car for the first time

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Originally posted by raffaelli
I ran the car for the first time this past weekend. The car ran very well. Couple of questions. The car is box stock with the stock settings, MR-12 engine, RD Logics 61215L pipe. The track is indoor ashpault treated with VHT. Ran 37 all around with the Protoform new Stratus.

The track is kinda small, 100x60.

What pipe can I change to that will give more torque?

There are two sweepers - comming onto the straight, the other off the straight. THe car has bad on power push on both of those sweepers. It was almost perect everywhere else. How do I fix?

Thanks,
Chris


this is parisracing turbo ring pipe for 12 class engine. very good on bottom end.

you might want to try reduce some droop from the front end to remove on power push at the sweepers
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:10 PM   #8093
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Thanks,

That is the pipe I used to run in my gas truck. I might still have it around.

Reducing droop.....going from 2 to 1?
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:23 PM   #8094
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Originally posted by raffaelli
Thanks,

That is the pipe I used to run in my gas truck. I might still have it around.

Reducing droop.....going from 2 to 1?
you need to try with different droop setting.
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:25 PM   #8095
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Originally posted by raffaelli
Thanks,

That is the pipe I used to run in my gas truck. I might still have it around.

Reducing droop.....going from 2 to 1?
if you are saying from 2 to 1, you are talking about increasing droop.
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:26 PM   #8096
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Gotcha, thanks for your help.
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Old 09-24-2003, 04:33 AM   #8097
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Default Trying out a MTX-3

I would have never bothered trying out another car besides my NTC3 but I found a steal on a MTX3. I am very thankful I never talked bad about one or any car for that reason. I am happy with my NTC3 but I cant pass up a deal, so I just have a couple questions before I go pick it up. Is there anything that is necessary to do or get before it hits the track? What is a good setup for tighter tracks?
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Old 09-24-2003, 04:53 AM   #8098
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Default Re: Trying out a MTX-3

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Originally posted by kreidel
I would have never bothered trying out another car besides my NTC3 but I found a steal on a MTX3. I am very thankful I never talked bad about one or any car for that reason. I am happy with my NTC3 but I cant pass up a deal, so I just have a couple questions before I go pick it up. Is there anything that is necessary to do or get before it hits the track? What is a good setup for tighter tracks?
welcome to the mugen club !

it performs great out of the box but if you want it to be a bit more reliable, get the alloy hex and front CVD and you are ready to bash the track. the kit set upis a very good starting point for fine adjustment to suit your tract.
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Old 09-24-2003, 09:37 AM   #8099
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Default Re: Trying out a MTX-3

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Originally posted by kreidel
I would have never bothered trying out another car besides my NTC3 but I found a steal on a MTX3. I am very thankful I never talked bad about one or any car for that reason. I am happy with my NTC3 but I cant pass up a deal, so I just have a couple questions before I go pick it up. Is there anything that is necessary to do or get before it hits the track? What is a good setup for tighter tracks?
Compared to the NTC3 - the MTX-3 is built way stronger and more solid. However, the NTC3 was probably easiler to work on although some may disagree. I'd try to locate someone around your area that is familiar with the car and pick his/her brain because the instructions sucks. But definitely the front CVD's, and alloy hex. Inspect the bearings when you get the car as they tend to wear alot. Also, the centax clutch could tricky to work with if this is your first time using it. If you are from around S.J. - Shawn at R/C Unlimited is very familiar with the car and their shop stock more mtx-3 parts then other local hobby stores in the immediate area. Good luck!
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Old 09-24-2003, 11:05 AM   #8100
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Default Re: Trying out a MTX-3

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
I would have never bothered trying out another car besides my NTC3 but I found a steal on a MTX3. I am very thankful I never talked bad about one or any car for that reason. I am happy with my NTC3 but I cant pass up a deal, so I just have a couple questions before I go pick it up. Is there anything that is necessary to do or get before it hits the track? What is a good setup for tighter tracks?
As others said: Mugen CVD's and AL wheel hex are very interesting. Depending on your driving preferences and the tracks you'll usually run, invest in a good brake disk (preferred to use a solid monoblock ventilated disk, the original one tends to warp) and the teflon brake pads to have more quality braking action.

Some used the front diff on tight tracks, but all is a matter on how tight and the grip you'll have on it. Better to get accustomed to the front one-way and rear diff, rather than 4WD full time.
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