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Old 09-14-2003, 10:31 AM   #7966
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Quote:
Originally posted by loosenut
Question for ya guys,

I finally was able to put together my car....but putting and storing away all the servo wires were pain in the ARSe!!!! How do you guys do it? I had a hard to figuring out where to squeeze all those servo/transponder/switch wires? Anyone got any pics?

G
this is my way of doing it.
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Old 09-14-2003, 10:39 AM   #7967
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Cows...where did you stick the plug that connects the rx pack to the switch? That one is pretty big? What about transponder switch!! I guess this is one of the weakness of mtx-3...

I'm just thinking what if the car get hit from the side ..I hope the electronics won't fall apart...hehe

G
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Old 09-14-2003, 01:02 PM   #7968
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I did my wiring in a similar way to Manticore, the switch I used had an extra lead to charge the Rx pack without removing the battery pack. As far as protection from hits, a switch acts like a bumper for the steering servo. Better to replace the switch than the servo.
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Old 09-14-2003, 01:25 PM   #7969
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Default Battery life

I can't believe what I'm reading about the short run times some of you are getting on the reciever battery pack. I running my MTX3 at our local track for about 5-6 hours every Sunday, and the entire time my reciever is rarely off. I don't use digital servos, but if the short battery life is because of the digital servo, I'm staying away from them. I have a good charger from my electric days but don't us it for my reciever pack. Instead, I use an over night wall plug type charger from Prolux just to make life easy. I'll burn up a half gallon of fuel before battery is dead. My set-up: Novak XXL reciever, GSW failsafe, 2 Airtronics 94737 servos all plugged into an RD Logic battery pack.
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Old 09-15-2003, 01:07 AM   #7970
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hi guys, does anyone know what size is the stock black rear sway bar ? is it 2.3mm or 2.5mm ? also, what 's the stock front and rear piston size ? 1.1X1 and 1.1X2 ? thanks
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Old 09-15-2003, 01:09 AM   #7971
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hi guys, does anyone know what size is the stock black rear sway bar ? is it 2.3mm or 2.5mm ? also, what 's the stock front and rear piston size ? 1.1X1 and 1.1X2 ? thanks

regarding the rear lower-arm position, stock setup uses B-B 5mm, how does it change the handling if i use A-A 4mm or C-C 6mm ?

thanks
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Old 09-15-2003, 01:19 AM   #7972
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Default fish is back!

Hello All,

Feel so great being home after a nice two weeks off abroad. Well, here is a new chassis from Shooter, artistically and well functional.



best,
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Old 09-15-2003, 02:01 AM   #7973
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tag
hi guys, does anyone know what size is the stock black rear sway bar ? is it 2.3mm or 2.5mm ? also, what 's the stock front and rear piston size ? 1.1X1 and 1.1X2 ? thanks

regarding the rear lower-arm position, stock setup uses B-B 5mm, how does it change the handling if i use A-A 4mm or C-C 6mm ?

thanks

Well, according to my plastic caliper the stock swaybar is 2.3mm.

The 6mm high roll center blocks resists chassis roll more. The 4mm low roll center blocks allows more chassis roll. I have noticed that the chassis squares up faster with the higher roll center(C) and that I can use a softer spring rate. The low roll center blocks(A) seems to have more traction in loose conditions but seems a little slow reacting and lazy. Using a sway bar and/or stiffer springs is recommended. After all that, I'm going back to the "B" blocks to get the best of both.
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Old 09-15-2003, 03:27 AM   #7974
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Default Re: fish is back!

Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Hello All,

Feel so great being home after a nice two weeks off abroad. Well, here is a new chassis from Shooter, artistically and well functional.



best,
And very expensive..
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Old 09-15-2003, 07:16 AM   #7975
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Quote:
Originally posted by FREAKAH
The 6mm high roll center blocks resists chassis roll more. The 4mm low roll center blocks allows more chassis roll. I have noticed that the chassis squares up faster with the higher roll center(C) and that I can use a softer spring rate. The low roll center blocks(A) seems to have more traction in loose conditions but seems a little slow reacting and lazy. Using a sway bar and/or stiffer springs is recommended. After all that, I'm going back to the "B" blocks to get the best of both.
r u sure??? i thought it was like this;

A block ='s less roll equals better grip and handling on high traction tracks

b = middle

c = for loose track conditions, uprepared surfaces etc gives more roll to the rear end

i ran in the last state titles in NSW in oz the B, moved to the A and found the car to be flatter in the tight twisty bits. A = 'ed less roll, lower roll centre = more stable car.
i think i am right?!
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Old 09-15-2003, 08:18 AM   #7976
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somebody want to elaborate on this how about the shock piston size ?anyone know ? i appreciate all that replied, thanks for the inputs and keep them coming !

Quote:
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
r u sure??? i thought it was like this;

A block ='s less roll equals better grip and handling on high traction tracks

b = middle

c = for loose track conditions, uprepared surfaces etc gives more roll to the rear end

i ran in the last state titles in NSW in oz the B, moved to the A and found the car to be flatter in the tight twisty bits. A = 'ed less roll, lower roll centre = more stable car.
i think i am right?!
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Old 09-15-2003, 09:15 AM   #7977
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Adjusting the clutch. Anyone have any tips on adjusting the clutch? Starting point? There an optional tool listed on the manual to adjust the clutch spring?? Is that necessary? I couldn't find it at my local hobby shop. Thx.

Gary
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Old 09-15-2003, 10:53 AM   #7978
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Quote:
Originally posted by loosenut
Adjusting the clutch. Anyone have any tips on adjusting the clutch? Starting point? There an optional tool listed on the manual to adjust the clutch spring?? Is that necessary? I couldn't find it at my local hobby shop. Thx.

Gary
Nope, you don't need an additional tool to adjust spring tension of the clutch. Simply is needed an 1mm or 1.5mm (if fits on your clutch bell hole). Lock the key on the notch who acts as nut in your clutch.

Just remember that for tightening the clutch, you need to rotate in CCW direction your flywheel (looking at the front side of the engine - you need to see the carb). Go in steps of 1/4 of turn, finetune in 1/8 of a turn when you like the spring tension (Take your time -3 or 4 laps at least- to heat the clutch before doing adjustments).
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Old 09-15-2003, 11:01 AM   #7979
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Quote:
Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
r u sure??? i thought it was like this;

A block ='s less roll equals better grip and handling on high traction tracks

b = middle

c = for loose track conditions, uprepared surfaces etc gives more roll to the rear end

i ran in the last state titles in NSW in oz the B, moved to the A and found the car to be flatter in the tight twisty bits. A = 'ed less roll, lower roll centre = more stable car.
i think i am right?!

Notice that most nitro cars(w/o adjustable roll centers) have a high roll center(high inner arm mount) in the rear compared to electric cars? This is to reduce the effects of the top heavy(and rear biased) nature of nitro cars.
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Old 09-15-2003, 02:16 PM   #7980
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Default What would you pick?

Hello All,

What would you pick if you CAN just get one of these:

Stock NS3


JP Black NS3


Kondo NS3


Kawahara ZAC Project NS3
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