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Old 09-01-2003, 05:16 PM   #7696
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what do you mean $50 posted?
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Old 09-01-2003, 05:26 PM   #7697
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ah10:

Right now the clutch engages at about 1/10~1/8 throttle.
If you blimp it, it doesn't engage.

is this an optimal setting for these cars? Im only breaking the motor in right now and im trying not to over rev it. Im not used to having a slipper clutch. It seems like you can't get these clutchs to engage without a little slip. Is that normal? I've tried setting the spring at all sorts of settings from .2mm to 1mm and i can't get it. Right now its at .9mm and i'll leave it there for a while. i don't know what else to do.
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Old 09-01-2003, 05:57 PM   #7698
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnzoFerrari
ah10:

Right now the clutch engages at about 1/10~1/8 throttle.
If you blimp it, it doesn't engage.

is this an optimal setting for these cars? Im only breaking the motor in right now and im trying not to over rev it. Im not used to having a slipper clutch. It seems like you can't get these clutchs to engage without a little slip. Is that normal? I've tried setting the spring at all sorts of settings from .2mm to 1mm and i can't get it. Right now its at .9mm and i'll leave it there for a while. i don't know what else to do.
well it's a combination of 2 things, your engine setting and your clutch setting, sounds complicated but it's not that hard to undertand, I will try my best to descript it:

I found out the best setting for my driving style is to set the bottom needle rich, and set the centex engage late also *very important, dont put too much gap on the clutch bell to the thrust bearing. By doing so, the engine will run cooler also you will have very powerful accelation no hesitation what so ever!

I had try lean bottom as everybody at the track that I run, trying to get power and clean off the line, but just dont work that way, then I change tunning method to rich bottom (thanks manticore on this one), the car go so much smooth power off the line and out from conors!

Try it, you might like it!
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Old 09-01-2003, 06:02 PM   #7699
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i will definitely try it. What should i set the end play too? right now its about .4mm.
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Old 09-01-2003, 06:26 PM   #7700
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is anybody going to the charity race laurel maryland
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Old 09-01-2003, 06:29 PM   #7701
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnzoFerrari
i will definitely try it. What should i set the end play too? right now its about .4mm.
Just measured mine, right now I am at 0.25mm oh make sure the bearing on the clutch bell is very smooth on the shaft that is very important too
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Old 09-01-2003, 06:41 PM   #7702
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Hm...what about CVDs...smap in half problem?? any suggestion? if I put a salid front diff in it...will it gong to continue giving me the same problem?
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Old 09-01-2003, 06:51 PM   #7703
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ah10
if it is too tight then the clutch will never engage for a few reasons, first the spring compressed too much and the coils touches when the flyweight expend to push the shoe outward, it will just slipping and slipping and overheated the clutch bell.

second the clutch wont engage till like half throttle since it is so tight! you might want to set it up to where the point when you blimp it, it doesnt engage
And probably with a too tight spring it has ruined the shoe glazing it due to excessive heat and friction (this is a new clutch shoe in order)
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Old 09-01-2003, 06:53 PM   #7704
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Quote:
Originally posted by superk
Hm...what about CVDs...smap in half problem?? any suggestion? if I put a salid front diff in it...will it gong to continue giving me the same problem?
Uhm... main problem with 3Racing CVD's is that are prone to breaking on the joint, better to stick with Mugen ones, more expensive but much better in reliability and the best of all, you can buy spares to rebuild your CVD's rather than needing to buy a complete CVD set each time you will need to rebuild.
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Old 09-01-2003, 07:00 PM   #7705
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Clutch shoe looks fine. i never took the car past 1/4 throttle. Im still breaking in the motor. I found a setting that seems to be ok at about .9mm. Im now gonna set my end play to about .25m like ah10 stated. i will also run the low speed a little on the rich side.
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Old 09-01-2003, 07:08 PM   #7706
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnzoFerrari
Clutch shoe looks fine. i never took the car past 1/4 throttle. Im still breaking in the motor. I found a setting that seems to be ok at about .9mm. Im now gonna set my end play to about .25m like ah10 stated. i will also run the low speed a little on the rich side.
that's the main problem with your setting. you cannot judge on engagement while you are having rich needle setting. set your clutch according to ah10's advice after you have completed your run in procedure.
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Old 09-01-2003, 08:50 PM   #7707
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnzoFerrari
Clutch shoe looks fine. i never took the car past 1/4 throttle. Im still breaking in the motor. I found a setting that seems to be ok at about .9mm. Im now gonna set my end play to about .25m like ah10 stated. i will also run the low speed a little on the rich side.
Now the measurement I stated eariler is strictly my setting, but I think anywhere over 0.5mm is too much, you will kill the thrust bearing fast!

Oh one more thing, I am using Mugen Super Hard Silver clutch spring and that's one of the reason I can set it to 0.25mm, if you are using softer clutch spring then it will engage too fast!
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Old 09-01-2003, 09:00 PM   #7708
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As I started reading your post I was waiting for you to say that you were running the 3 racing ones. When I first got my car I got those and they shattered off the car in one tank of gas. I said the same thing. What did I hit. The 3 racing universals are garbage. They are smaller at the joint than the mugen ones. I lost a one way drive shaft in the process and had to run the rest of the day on three wheel drive. The car still worked and I won.
Buy the mugen ones. I have had the real mugen ones in my car ever sense without a problem. Also it is good to get the MTX-2 unvershafts because they are longer if you can.
Most of 3 racings other stuff is good but there universals are horrible. And yeah a one way is harder on the gear train than a diff.
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Old 09-01-2003, 09:08 PM   #7709
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these are the best axles I've used yet, and i've used them all. The one thing I noticed more than anything is to lube the joints every race with grease, I've had a few wear out at the cross joint like in a heartbeat if you don't.

RD's new joints. These are not the 3 racing ones. look at the joint where it intersects the end. Mind you all of them will break if you hight something the wrong way. Also if your servo saver is to loose you will break lots of joints. tighten it up until 3.5 to 4 MM of thread is showing. I actually twisted one of the cvd's out of the rear of my MRX3. I was really scratching my head cause all i did was jump a dot on throttle. Another racer told me it happened to him several times and that the on power shock when the tire hits the ground snaps the axle. And those are f'n big.


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Last edited by Motorman; 09-01-2003 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 09-01-2003, 09:32 PM   #7710
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Took some pictures tonight after stripping it down and rebuilding it! enjoy guys!

My workshop!


Side view




Full front, Kawahara Lola front mount


Rear View


Kawahara Rear Sway Bar


Front Belt




Last one Rear Quarter
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