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Old 06-22-2003, 12:28 AM   #5701
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
{??
oh, I dont want people think that we work for a 5 stars, kawahara etc etc. but i am sponsored by GPM !

no, it is joking. I will feel very bad if I have a single piece of GPM stuff on my car.
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Old 06-22-2003, 12:32 AM   #5702
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can htis car perform on the parkin lot/ not smoosh surface?
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Old 06-22-2003, 12:39 AM   #5703
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As people have known me on and off the track, I always strongly encourage people to support the local hobby shops. I believe it is part of the r/c cycle. There are many good hobby shops out there that readily and willingly provide help on all the needs.

I do not work for any company and am not sponsored by anyone. All the hopups I have on my car are solely based on my personal preference and taste. Some may enhance the performance, some may not.

All my comments expressed in this forum are entirely based on my own opinion. If my comments ever offend anyone in anyway, please do kindly accept my apology.

After all, I could be a Piranha.
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Old 06-22-2003, 01:10 AM   #5704
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
As people have known me on and off the track, I always strongly encourage people to support the local hobby shops. I believe it is part of the r/c cycle. There are many good hobby shops out there that readily and willingly provide help on all the needs.
I agree... whenever possible.

I do support my LHS. I just happen to call a hobby shop that is 70 miles away my "LHS" instead of the one that is 15min away.

I used to work at the ''15minute hobbyshop''
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Old 06-22-2003, 01:13 AM   #5705
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sooo wat about this car on parking lots n not so smooth surfaces...?
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Old 06-22-2003, 01:21 AM   #5706
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Quote:
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
sooo wat about this car on parking lots n not so smooth surfaces...?
Hello cHckbOY5,

Honestly, I have had bad experience running my old MTX-2 and Serpent Impulse on parking lots. Got pebble stuck in pulleys, broken fuel tanks.

Since this car is a belt-driven car, I would't run in the parking lot unless it's a clean, well prepared one.

just my personal opinion.
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Old 06-22-2003, 01:25 AM   #5707
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ahhh, does this mean i have to get an ntc3...
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Old 06-22-2003, 01:36 AM   #5708
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I'm the only mugen running on our parking lot track. As far as belt cars go, we have two V one R's, then myself with the mugen.

It's really not a problem just as long as they use a blower on the track first. I have taken a rock in the spur gear, and lost about half of 2-3 teeth, but a TC3 would do that too on a rock strike to the gears..
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Old 06-22-2003, 01:37 AM   #5709
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Quote:
Originally posted by cHckbOY5
ahhh, does this mean i have to get an ntc3...
If it may imply that you will have to get the NTC3, I do not see what will be wrong with it. Get the car and run it. After a while, see the like and dislike based on your personal experience to the car. You wouldn't plan to own one car for the rest of your life, would you?
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Old 06-22-2003, 03:06 AM   #5710
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Default centex set up

hey, how do you assemble the centex ? some Rc magazine's advice, we could add shim in behind the 5x10 bearing of clutch bell, which face towards the clutch shoes. it would help to retain a gap in between the clutch shoes and clutch bell when the motor idle. is that right ? correct me if I am wrong. how you guys set up the centex ? following the instruction in the manual or what ? thanks.
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Old 06-22-2003, 03:55 AM   #5711
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corse-R
BTW: Have handy the part no. of the RDLogics Turbo pipe? If not remember bad, you use one with good results (want to try one to compare to Nova pipes).
try www.microtechracing.com


he will ship to you at a good price mention mark christopher and he will look after you
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Last edited by Cartman; 06-22-2003 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 06-22-2003, 04:11 AM   #5712
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Quote:
Originally posted by FREAKAH
cartman,

I noticed that in your pics of your cut-down hubs, one set are cut down more than another set in a different pic.

Was it a result of trail and error and if so which one provided the best results?


I'm about to try out a set of hubs which were cut down 5mm. Just curious how it would work on our hot and slippery track. Hope it works.
this one is more than 5mm it goes down to the bend in the hub




We found the stock ones gave too much camber change and wore the inner edge of the tyre and overheated them. the above tyres have done a 15 min final on an med abrasive track. note:- talking about rubber tyres!


below is the 5mm one.
i now prefere the lower ball one as i can add spacers as needed.



the other option that alot of rubber drivers are doing is adding the MTX2 rear hubs to the rear of the MTX3! gives more tuning options.
personally i find the cut ones as good. what your aiming for is to get the outer top link ball in the same dimension as the outer top link on the MTX2 read hub. i ran this when i got the first mtx in the uk, even though i told everyone why my car was god no one listened till now!!
i now have low rear trye wear, no overheating (unless im really pushng hard) and a good balanced rear!

NOTE:- when done drill the screw hole with a 2.5mm drill alll the way down and use the longest bolt you can

hope this helps
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Last edited by Cartman; 06-22-2003 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 06-22-2003, 04:23 AM   #5713
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Default Re: centex set up

Quote:
Originally posted by speedy100
hey, how do you assemble the centex ? some Rc magazine's advice, we could add shim in behind the 5x10 bearing of clutch bell, which face towards the clutch shoes. it would help to retain a gap in between the clutch shoes and clutch bell when the motor idle. is that right ? correct me if I am wrong. how you guys set up the centex ? following the instruction in the manual or what ? thanks.
yes use the spacers so you can hold the flywheel, push the clutch bell in and there is no binding. then set up as per the instructions, some digital verier calipers are very handy here
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Old 06-22-2003, 05:42 AM   #5714
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cartman
this one is more than 5mm it goes down to the bend in the hub




We found the stock ones gave too much camber change and wore the inner edge of the tyre and overheated them. the above tyres have done a 15 min final on an med abrasive track. note:- talking about rubber tyres!


below is the 5mm one.
i now prefere the lower ball one as i can add spacers as needed.



the other option that alot of rubber drivers are doing is adding the MTX2 rear hubs to the rear of the MTX3! gives more tuning options.
personally i find the cut ones as good. what your aiming for is to get the outer top link ball in the same dimension as the outer top link on the MTX2 read hub. i ran this when i got the first mtx in the uk, even though i told everyone why my car was god no one listened till now!!
i now have low rear trye wear, no overheating (unless im really pushng hard) and a good balanced rear!

hope this helps
Thanks for the info cartman!

BTW, what inner camber link hole do you use?

Thanks again!
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Old 06-22-2003, 07:23 AM   #5715
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either but mainly outer
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