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Old 05-31-2003, 09:17 PM   #4471
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Originally posted by Ah10
Yes I do, I normally run at Crystal Park, Revelation and sometimes KZ, where do you run? I dont think I have ever met you! I kind of know anyone and everyone with 5th scale at those tracks!

What tire do u use on the 5th and what compound?

Hey AH10, I run a Technokit and I'm from N. Cali. When I'm down there I usualy run 1/5 at KZ. If you ran the Pre-Worlds or Nationals at the track you have probably seen me with the Technokit team. Personaly I run PMT's Hence the name!
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Old 05-31-2003, 09:21 PM   #4472
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Quote:
Originally posted by PMT
Hey AH10, I run a Technokit and I'm from N. Cali. When I'm down there I usualy run 1/5 at KZ. If you ran the Pre-Worlds or Nationals at the track you have probably seen me with the Technokit team. Personaly I run PMT's Hence the name!
I see! may be u can help me out on this, I have both FG adjustable diff and Techonkit torque sensing diff, but seems like my techonkit torque sensing diff isnt working really good, diff out pretty bad, dont know what's wrong with it! all the gears are in great shape, always lubed and such just couldnt figure out why!
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Old 05-31-2003, 09:32 PM   #4473
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Originally posted by Ah10
I see! may be u can help me out on this, I have both FG adjustable diff and Techonkit torque sensing diff, but seems like my techonkit torque sensing diff isnt working really good, diff out pretty bad, dont know what's wrong with it! all the gears are in great shape, always lubed and such just couldnt figure out why!
The Technokit auto-lock diff is one of the best on the market and if you are having problems it is usualy caused by one of 2 things. 1) Set up issues i.e. you are lifting your inside wheel when cornering. Usualy caused by too soft st up on the rear or need stiffer sway bars. 2) The type of grease you are using. Try CV joint grease or what I use. Mix in a 50/50 ratio 500,000wt silicon (can be bought from FG) with angle grinder grease (can be bought at a tool supply store). Take the diff apart initialy and remove the old grease that you have in it & clean well. Put about 2 teaspoons of the mix into the diff making sure that you coat the area where the gears fit on the cross member too and reasemble. From then on you can simply re-lube when necesary by removing the outdrive and squirting in the grease using a syringe. Hope this helps!
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Old 05-31-2003, 09:49 PM   #4474
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Quote:
Originally posted by PMT
The Technokit auto-lock diff is one of the best on the market and if you are having problems it is usualy caused by one of 2 things. 1) Set up issues i.e. you are lifting your inside wheel when cornering. Usualy caused by too soft st up on the rear or need stiffer sway bars. 2) The type of grease you are using. Try CV joint grease or what I use. Mix in a 50/50 ratio 500,000wt silicon (can be bought from FG) with angle grinder grease (can be bought at a tool supply store). Take the diff apart initialy and remove the old grease that you have in it & clean well. Put about 2 teaspoons of the mix into the diff making sure that you coat the area where the gears fit on the cross member too and reasemble. From then on you can simply re-lube when necesary by removing the outdrive and squirting in the grease using a syringe. Hope this helps!
well the reason why I addressed I have both diff is because if I use the FG adjustable diff, the car conors like it's on rail, so I dont think I have too soft rear susp. I am using moly grease in there, for somereason I believe there is something to do with the concave washer at the end of both sun gears
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Old 05-31-2003, 10:45 PM   #4475
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forget about this idiot, he still think he can convince people to stock 100 pairs of tire for his retard game !
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Old 05-31-2003, 10:46 PM   #4476
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ah10
well the reason why I addressed I have both diff is because if I use the FG adjustable diff, the car conors like it's on rail, so I dont think I have too soft rear susp. I am using moly grease in there, for somereason I believe there is something to do with the concave washer at the end of both sun gears
Are the washers damaged? If so let me know. The reason that I suggest the silicon/grease combo is that it makes the diff tighter than running standard molly grease. I found out that this is what the European team drivers use too. I tried it in my diff when we ran the STC Pro Series race in Mexico a couple of months ago and it worked great! Let me know about the shims otherwise honestly try the silicon/grease combo.
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Old 05-31-2003, 10:55 PM   #4477
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Quote:
Originally posted by PMT
Manti, I'm only apolagizing if you are older than 12? However I still think that you are an as*

TSR6, where are people getting 100 pairs of tires from? In 1/8th we burn up a lot of rubber and the Hudy box is made to hold about this many pairs. To avoid using fresh tires every time we use the paint pen trick that I mentioned before. This way you don't waste rubber truing and you can use them up completely. I usualy take 2 sets of tires with me to a race. After I run them I mark them and put them in the box. Next time if I want to run a specific diamter I just look in my tire box and grab a used set that has the right diameter instead of cutting a fresh set. Saves money!

Stefan, I'm not too bussy bashing so I will take the time to respond to your question about overdrive. This is starting with the basics so my appolagies if this is repetative. Most 1/8th cars come w/ an overdrive ratio chart. In the last couple of years in touring w/ the use of foam tires there is starting to become a need for calculating this too. What the overdrive ration indicates is the ratio of drive (rotations) of the front tires compared to the rear tires. There are pulley sets available to adjust this but as foam tires wear (diameters change) this is most commonly adjusted by truing the tires to specific diametes.

When you see an overdrive ratio under 1 i.e. .985 what this means is that the rear tires are overdriving the fronts. Or for every complete rotation of the rear tires the front tires rotate .985 turns. When you see a ratio over 1 i.e. 1.008 that means that the front tires are overdriving the rears. Or for every 1 rotation of the rear tires the front rotates 1.008 times. These might seem light minute amounts but it can result in a significant change in how your car handles.

The ratio comes into play to a) tailor your cars handeling to the track type i.e. large flowing w/ sweepers or tight, narrow w/ 180's. b) Change the handeling of your car i.e. feeling of more steering, reduce the amount of steering etc.

So as a general rule of thumb on flowing high speed tracks you can run less overdrive i.e. 1.00 (sometimes below 1). This will make your car easier to drive on this type of track and also because you are running taller rear tires allow a higher top speed. On tight technical tracks you want to run a higher overdrive ration i.e 1.00 or above. This puts more drive to the front of the car and generaly makes the front of the car pull the rear around (extreem example is a front wheel drive full size car where front of car pulls the rear around corners) making the car feel almost like it has more steering. This makes it easier to drive around tight 180's etc. and generaly the car will go in the direction the front wheels are pointed when you apply gas. With overdrive small diameter changes make a large difference and this is something that needs to be experimented with to find what ratio you like best. You already have felt what a change in overdrive ration does, you probably have noticed that during the corse of a 30 minute main the handeling of your car changes? This change in handeling is because your tire diamteres are changing and hence your overdrive ratio.

Now before I get jumped on by anyone about the above overdrive explination let me say that this is an extreemely simplified explination of how and what changing this does.
by the way, did i never say I need your apology ?

you are too clever to be an anal !
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Old 05-31-2003, 10:58 PM   #4478
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Hey PMT, did you ever live in So. Cal?
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Old 05-31-2003, 11:03 PM   #4479
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
forget about this idiot, he still think he can convince people to stock 100 pairs of tire for his retard game !
Manti, your an idiot and obviously you still have not learned to read.
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Old 05-31-2003, 11:11 PM   #4480
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
the stock setup always a good starting point for foam setup.
Sorry about my ignorance but what is the stock setup?

-Puma
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Old 05-31-2003, 11:12 PM   #4481
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Quote:
Originally posted by PMT
Manti, your an idiot and obviously you still have not learned to read.
what else you can say other then ass or idiot?

i said you bull shit a lot. better save your time to count your tires and work out your 0.0001 tire ratio table. you will be next world champion
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Old 05-31-2003, 11:15 PM   #4482
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Quote:
Originally posted by puma1824
Sorry about my ignorance but what is the stock setup?

-Puma
the stock setup sheet is here
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Old 05-31-2003, 11:17 PM   #4483
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedydave
You know what they say..."Arguing on the internet is like running in the Special Olympics...even if you win, you're still retarded." Not that either of you is retarded, but c'mon guys, this is the internet, and this board/thread was created to share information, not argue with each other over a few misunderstandings.

I don't race onroad(yet..but I'm not sure I'll get the chance to since it's dying at my local track), but with offroad I usually bring 2 or 3 sets of tires with me for 1/8 and 1 or 2 pairs of fronts/2 or 3 pairs of rears for 1/10.
it does happen once in a while to have some @ss hole comes, makes trouble and leave.
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Old 05-31-2003, 11:18 PM   #4484
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I also have been using the stock setup. The only major change I have made was to go to the higher roll center for the rear of the car. I needed a little more bite, and the roll center did the trick.

Also, can the beefin please be taken to PM's? Thanks.

-Troy
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Old 05-31-2003, 11:22 PM   #4485
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
the stock setup sheet is here
So the coning is normal? I just read in a rc car mag to make the camber so the tires don't cone...help I'm confused. I come from a rubber tire background.

Thanks,
Puma
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