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Old 05-20-2003, 10:45 AM   #4036
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i guess the point i was trying to make is that the belts are the weak link already

i think the only way you could damage the aluminum shaft is if you were involved in a terrible accident where the mid block was broken away from the chassis or something
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Old 05-20-2003, 11:14 AM   #4037
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OK, thanks for the help guys. I guess you can't go wrong with both. I plan on lowering the rotating mass a little bit with hollow mid and 2 speed shafts, 1st and 2nd gear housings, etc.

BTW, some of the locals at Crystal Park are using MRX3 front belts with good results. Hopefully it lasts longer than the stockers for me.
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Old 05-20-2003, 11:27 AM   #4038
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Al shaft works better on MTX3 then the rest which use cross pin to keep the pulley in place. The grup screw type pulley actually add strength to the shaft. the cross pin type pulley will weaken the shaft. I broke a Square Ti mid shaft at the cross pin area with my V1RR
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Old 05-20-2003, 10:06 PM   #4039
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Quote:
Originally posted by jason102276
i would love to have a ford falcon body i saw them on speed channel during a broadcast of racing in australia its been a while so i couldnt remember the name of the car just that it was a old ford name i am guessing those bodies would be made by trinity right i already want one i remeber wishing they made them while i was watching that race i especially like the green headlights
It sounds like you were looking at the Craig Lowndes Flacon. Good looking paint scheme. The ford, Holden body shells are manufactured locally, but i'm not sure how to get in touch with them. My LHS has access to them though so i will ask next time i'm in there.
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Old 05-20-2003, 10:42 PM   #4040
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Quote:
Originally posted by jason102276
i guess the point i was trying to make is that the belts are the weak link already

i think the only way you could damage the aluminum shaft is if you were involved in a terrible accident where the mid block was broken away from the chassis or something
A poorly maintained, rough, or locked mid-block bearing can also destroy an aluminum shaft.
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Last edited by FREAKAH; 05-21-2003 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 05-21-2003, 12:00 AM   #4041
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Quote:
Originally posted by FREAKAH
A poorly maintained, rough, or locked mid-block bearing can also destroy an aluminum.
that also destroy Ti 2 !
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Old 05-21-2003, 12:08 AM   #4042
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Hop up Parts from Justrc

Anyone used the following parts for the MTX-3?

http://store.yahoo.com/justrc/mtx3solidaxle.html (is this a negative rear diff)

http://store6.yimg.com/I/justrc_1732_1848007?

Are they worth the money?

Thanks

Sami
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Old 05-21-2003, 12:45 AM   #4043
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guys did u drill holes on ur clutch shoes?
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Old 05-21-2003, 12:47 AM   #4044
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Quote:
Originally posted by penggoy
guys did u drill holes on ur clutch shoes?
no need to drill, there are 4 holes already !

well, you only need to do that for non-centax clutch for engagement timing adjustment.
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Old 05-21-2003, 12:53 AM   #4045
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Default Re: Hop up Parts from Justrc

Sami,
The first item on your list is a solid rear adaptor. Simply remove the gears in your rear diff, insert this blob, screw it together and whazaam. A solid rear

/Pontus

Quote:
Originally posted by ttektek
Anyone used the following parts for the MTX-3?

http://store.yahoo.com/justrc/mtx3solidaxle.html (is this a negative rear diff)

http://store6.yimg.com/I/justrc_1732_1848007?

Are they worth the money?

Thanks

Sami
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Old 05-21-2003, 12:59 AM   #4046
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What is the advantages of a solid rear diff, as opposed to one a gear diff?
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:13 AM   #4047
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Default Re: Hop up Parts from Justrc

Sami,
The first item on your list is a solid rear adaptor. Simply remove the gears in your rear diff, insert this blob, screw it together and whazaam. A solid rear

/Pontus

Quote:
Originally posted by ttektek
Anyone used the following parts for the MTX-3?

http://store.yahoo.com/justrc/mtx3solidaxle.html (is this a negative rear diff)

http://store6.yimg.com/I/justrc_1732_1848007?

Are they worth the money?

Thanks

Sami
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:20 AM   #4048
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
no need to drill, there are 4 holes already !

well, you only need to do that for non-centax clutch for engagement timing adjustment.
i guess he is saying the 4 little shoes underneath the clutch plate ? not the cutch shoes.
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:24 AM   #4049
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Quote:
Originally posted by speedy100
i guess he is saying the 4 little shoes underneath the clutch plate ? not the cutch shoes.
that's the fly weight. mugen has option flyweight with 2 holes on each of the weights.
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Old 05-21-2003, 01:34 AM   #4050
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
that's the fly weight. mugen has option flyweight with 2 holes on each of the weights.
very interesting, what could we gain if we used the option flyweight ? later engagement ? also what's the difference of grey shoes and original black shoes ? thanks and sorry for so many questions
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