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Old 05-02-2003, 09:21 PM   #3616
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What's the easiest way to power your starter box? and which starter box is reliable, easy to use, and is affordable? any suggestions? What works well with the MTX-3?

Last edited by BossPlaya; 05-02-2003 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 05-02-2003, 09:59 PM   #3617
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[
On your MTX-3, a 22T pinion with a 42T spur will give you 4.82 final drive ratio. A 23T pinion will get you 4.61 drive ratio which What you could do is you could check if the 24T pulley conversion from the V1RR could be used on the MTX-3. It comes with the necessary belts. The 24T pulleys is meant to swap the 19T pulleys on the V1RR. This changes the internal drive ratios to 2. I don't know if they can fit in the MTX-3 which also uses 19T side and 19T brake pulleys. Then the options for gearing are finitely possible to reach with an internal drive ratio of 2.


Check out Kawahara. They have a new set of pulley came out wth lower internal drive ratio. Now only come in Kit form which incl other kawa stuff, but should be out in separate item# next week. Looking forward to try it out.
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Old 05-02-2003, 10:22 PM   #3618
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pepe
I found in kawahara's web site:
what is the Kawahara'e website? pls?

from this pic, i cant see the rear pulley...where is it and how does it fit onto this?
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Old 05-02-2003, 10:36 PM   #3619
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Default 22t pinion?

Where do you get the 22tooth pinions? The MTX3 parts list only up to 21tooth. I'm a future MTX3 owner and want to get the right gearing for the big tracks. The MRX3 only lists up to 21tooth also.

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2003, 10:50 PM   #3620
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You can use the 22 tooth pinion from the Sting but the mesh will not be that great. You can also buy the K-Factory's 22 tooth pinion made for the Mtx-3 which will mesh perfectly.
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Old 05-03-2003, 12:33 AM   #3621
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Quote:
Originally posted by RClover
what is the Kawahara'e website? pls?

from this pic, i cant see the rear pulley...where is it and how does it fit onto this?
We're in the everything wireless era. This is the version of Pulley-less and rear belt-less

crazy fish
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Old 05-03-2003, 12:34 AM   #3622
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Quote:
Originally posted by RClover
what is the Kawahara'e website? pls?

from this pic, i cant see the rear pulley...where is it and how does it fit onto this?
http://www.kawahara-racing.co.jp
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Old 05-03-2003, 03:31 AM   #3623
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
We're in the everything wireless era. This is the version of Pulley-less and rear belt-less

crazy fish
i was stupid aint i?
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Old 05-03-2003, 03:44 AM   #3624
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Did anybody experiment with all of the roll center blocks and ackerman arms yet?

I'm scared to try them in fear of screwing up my already excellent setup.

Actually, I built my car right off the bat to kit specs except for these changes:

"C" roll center block
Long rear camber link, inside hole in tower
Front diff
Grey rear springs

This setup rocks with rubber tires on a tight track.
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Old 05-03-2003, 08:21 PM   #3625
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Default Shark Pipe too long..

got my Shark Pipe today and cant wait any longer to fix it, problem!
i had the manifold cut already and the front left tyre nearly touch the pipe when turning left (A ankerman), just 1mm of clearance! Cant imagine what happen when the front left tyre hit the board while doing some hard 180 deg turn...
any suggestion ? Manticore and guys..........!!!
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Old 05-03-2003, 11:55 PM   #3626
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I know these are stupid questions but where are the screws to adjust the front droop of this car and why are there 2 screws on each rear suspension arms for droop adjusting ?

btw what are the diff shock spring colors and their ratings that are available for this car?

thnx
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Old 05-04-2003, 12:00 AM   #3627
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Quote:
Originally posted by penggoy
I know these are stupid questions but where are the screws to adjust the front droop of this car and why are there 2 screws on each rear suspension arms for droop adjusting ?

btw what are the diff shock spring colors and their ratings that are available for this car?

thnx
the droop adjusting screw is next to the top bumper plate fixing screw on the bulkhead

You leave the rear screw on the rear arm and should not adjust it. this is for up travel adjustment.

the kit comes with light blue springs and I believe it is 1.7 rating which is a step stiffer then purple spring 1.6 rating.
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Old 05-04-2003, 12:13 AM   #3628
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
the droop adjusting screw is next to the top bumper plate fixing screw on the bulkhead

You leave the rear screw on the rear arm and should not adjust it. this is for up travel adjustment.

the kit comes with light blue springs and I believe it is 1.7 rating which is a step stiffer then purple spring 1.6 rating.
thnx again manticore
I want to run my car tomorrow and cant wait for my engine from Murnan so Im going to use my OS12tr on RDlogics turbo pipe.
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Old 05-04-2003, 06:44 AM   #3629
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i run my car yesterday the car is great but i'm having trouble gunnin the car coming out of a turn it will spin out i have to wait until the car is perfectly straight before a can nail it. do you guys having this kind of trouble? is the 3rd racing 2nd gear housing is better that the sock? cause the bearing is keep coming out

thanks
nelly
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Old 05-04-2003, 08:01 AM   #3630
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Quote:
Originally posted by dg8one
i run my car yesterday the car is great but i'm having trouble gunnin the car coming out of a turn it will spin out i have to wait until the car is perfectly straight before a can nail it. do you guys having this kind of trouble? is the 3rd racing 2nd gear housing is better that the sock? cause the bearing is keep coming out

thanks
nelly
some one use thread lock to keep the bearing in place. I dont think the 3racing housing is any better then the original one.
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