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Old 04-24-2003, 02:25 PM   #3211
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
Hey Guys,

I'm really looking at the MTX-3 for some summer nitro racing. I've heard nothing but good things about the car, but I want to dig into the dirt. I've been trying to browse for specs and information, but I've mostly found online shops

How is it durability-wise? Is there anything that is considered to be a weak spot on the car?

Is there anything that does not come with the car that should be bought with it, and installed right away?

I'm looking at the kit w/ MT-12 & pipe.

Thanks for any info.
need Front CVD
Problem on Fuel tanks on some kits
need Aluminum Wheel hex adapters
brake binding issue, but there's a great solution for it

That's all fish could think of for now...
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Old 04-24-2003, 02:29 PM   #3212
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these are just my opinions about the car others will say different things

all around a great car good luck finding something else that handles this well out the box and compared to other cars i think its very durable

weak points are the front dogbones fall out if the wheels are turned too far replacing with universals is necessary

i have had problems with breaking the universals during hard accidents where the front upright was broken alot of others have not had this problem but i did and others i know have also

and i think the engine brace should have been made of aluminum that should be upgraded immediately like the front universals

i eventually fixed my universal problem by using the universal bone from mtx2 if that hadnt fixed it i would have used mtx2 dogbones they are longer than mtx3 dogbones and do not fall out

another weak point seems to be the fuel tank for some reason they are leaking on alot of our cars maybe a defect maybe a design flaw

the brake pads must be sanded also but the instructions tell you to sand them so its not really a problem

and you should use 2 degree offset wheels or you need a spacer behind the wheel hex to use 30mm rear tires

you may now be thinking that it sucks but thats not true i had a ntc3 and its list of problems was ten times this and it didnt handle as well IMO most rc cars have some problems that need to be addressed

i recommend getting a mtx3 i dont think there is a better car out there
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Old 04-24-2003, 05:36 PM   #3213
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I did not even know the car used dogbones. This is my problem, I cannot find my RCCA magazine which had the car review, nor can I find anything with specs of the car online. Just sales adds.

Mugen's website isn't much help either. I'm not sure what they used to translate it from japanese, but it sure is messy.

I've gone through this thread a little bit, but 80+ pages is quite a bit of information to scroll through.

The dogbones, they just pop out mid-corner from being too short? Not even from hitting anything? Hmm, guess i'll order some CVD's with the car.

Where does the tank leak? Out the filler top? I know HPI cars had this problem a couple years back, and probably still do, but my Racer2 never really had the problem as long as the pitman let it snap, or tapped the lid.
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:30 PM   #3214
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if you go to mugen seiki homepage i think they give you the option for english

there is a mugen usa website but it is really slow

order cvds with the car is your best bet you really only need fronts

the tanks that have leaked have all leaked from the seam where the 2 halfs are supposed to be sealed

maybe they are defect ones in some kits maybe they are getting broken in accidents i dont know

but beside the couple of stupid problems some of us have had the car is awesome i think that its the best setup car out the box ever
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:34 PM   #3215
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Yeah, The Mugen website's option for english is crude at best. As I said, I'm not sure what they used to translate it from japanese, but it sure is messy.

Thanks for all the help though. It's been a while since I've had questions like this.
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:36 PM   #3216
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TSR6: Yes, Front CVDs is a must.. and AL wheel hex...

For me, one of my tank leaked from the joint area near at the rear "ear"(where the screw go into), i would recommend not to tighten the screw too much, because that area is taking alot of stress because of the engine vibration and the ultra sonic speed of the car...
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:36 PM   #3217
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Quote:
Originally posted by eddiethefish
Manticore,

Would you mind scan the Kawahara Solid Spool for us?

Thanks,
i have the real thing, it is just an adaptor put inside a diff case and joint the case and outdrives together. I will post pic.
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:38 PM   #3218
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by the way, how many more MTX-3 owners will be interested in TI screws set? Those that who haven't gotten them yet..

Thanks

JustRC
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:45 PM   #3219
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hi guys. Im almost finish with the kit. How come the 3R rear universals are moving from side to side of the car unlike the 3r fronts which are steady?
Also the rear wheels are touching the rear hub carriers using the stock foam tires.
I know its been posted before but someone said that we can put a sealed rx box. what is it?
thnx
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:45 PM   #3220
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Quote:
Originally posted by justrc
TSR6: Yes, Front CVDs is a must.. and AL wheel hex...

For me, one of my tank leaked from the joint area near at the rear "ear"(where the screw go into), i would recommend not to tighten the screw too much, because that area is taking alot of stress because of the engine vibration and the ultra sonic speed of the car...
Justrc - Thanks, I'll probably be contacting you soon.

I just need to sell the good ole RS4 before I can justify buying this thing.
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:45 PM   #3221
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Quote:
Originally posted by justrc
TSR6: Yes, Front CVDs is a must.. and AL wheel hex...

For me, one of my tank leaked from the joint area near at the rear "ear"(where the screw go into), i would recommend not to tighten the screw too much, because that area is taking alot of stress because of the engine vibration and the ultra sonic speed of the car...
i believe this is the manufactoring defect! all the problem fuel tank leaks from the same area.

Lets look at the upper deck, there is a rounded point where you put thru the screw to attached to the fuel tank and i think that is the problem which cause the fuel tank leak when you have a crash.
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Old 04-24-2003, 06:48 PM   #3222
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Quote:
Lets look at the upper deck, there is a rounded point where you put thru the screw to attached to the fuel tank and i think that is the problem which cause the fuel tank leak when you have a crash.

Agree...


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Old 04-24-2003, 07:14 PM   #3223
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the mighty MTX 3 has got a defect. Is that the fleece falling off the sheeps back
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Old 04-24-2003, 07:37 PM   #3224
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
i believe this is the manufactoring defect! all the problem fuel tank leaks from the same area.

Lets look at the upper deck, there is a rounded point where you put thru the screw to attached to the fuel tank and i think that is the problem which cause the fuel tank leak when you have a crash.
Guess i am the only one without this problem after so many bashing and crashing with my MTX-3.

the damage so far are
2 dogbones
1 left upright
2 right rear arms
front belt
recently the left rear bulkhead.

time to change the pionions and spurs too..
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Old 04-24-2003, 09:58 PM   #3225
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What kind of screws does the MTX-3 come with? It looks like hex screws, but I'm positive in one pic i see a phillips?!

..and while I'm asking, if they are hex, what size heads do they have?
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