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Old 04-17-2003, 10:14 PM   #2941
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Last edited by DanielSon; 05-31-2007 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 04-18-2003, 03:09 AM   #2942
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I notice that there are different viscosity levels for the diffs ( 10000, 50000, and 100000. Im running the front one-way with foams. Depending on track conditions and layout, what is the purpose of using different viscosity levels for the rear diff. ?? Thx.
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Old 04-18-2003, 04:49 AM   #2943
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Quote:
Originally posted by Roger
I notice that there are different viscosity levels for the diffs ( 10000, 50000, and 100000. Im running the front one-way with foams. Depending on track conditions and layout, what is the purpose of using different viscosity levels for the rear diff. ?? Thx.
Depending on the track layout and grip conditions you may need a 'softer' rear differential that goes better into the turns or a thicker differential that don't slips under hard acceleration and their differential action is reduced for proper handling on large straights.

Depending on track layout (baseline at 10000 wt oil):

Smaller tracks (very twisty and tight turns): 7000 - 10000
Larger tracks (lots of high speed turns and large straights: 10000 - 25000

Depending on grip condition (baseline at 10000wt oil):

Low grip (needs foams like 35, 37 & 40sh): 7000 - 10000
High grip (needs foams like 40, 42 & 45sh): 10000 - 50000

Those figures aren't invariable, but pay attention that a thicker oil on the rear diff causes wheel scrub on the middle of the corner and you may wear faster the rear tyres, so it's a matter of weighting what you want and what you need.
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Old 04-18-2003, 06:03 AM   #2944
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Originally posted by Racing4Evo
2mm. I'd have to say that 95% of the screws are 2mm. A great thing to have would be the 2mm adapter for power drills. Saves a lot of time. Does anyone know where I can get one because I am in desperate need of one considering how often I tear apart my cars?
Did you try Home depot or Sears? I am pretty sure you will find one there. If you don't find milimetric ones, you can do what I did: get a the adapter from any other standar hex , cut a piece of 2mm hex allen (the L-shape ones) and replace the standard for the 2mm. Is it clear? I think it is too early to explain something right now.
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Old 04-18-2003, 06:42 AM   #2945
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1. how do u remove the front turnbuckles? just force them upward?
2. how do u setup the 2-speed shoe( setep 20)? Is it the same with ntc3? do I have to put stealth lube on the balls?
3. do I have to put threadlock on screws that have metal to metal contact (like SK4X5)?
4. anyone here added springs on 3X20 pins(step 20) that way the brake will at least go back to its original position when brake is applied.

sorry if im asking a lot of questions. the manual has poor instructions. Im just relying on its pictures.
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Old 04-18-2003, 07:15 AM   #2946
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Quote:
Originally posted by penggoy
1. how do u remove the front turnbuckles? just force them upward?
2. how do u setup the 2-speed shoe( setep 20)? Is it the same with ntc3? do I have to put stealth lube on the balls?
3. do I have to put threadlock on screws that have metal to metal contact (like SK4X5)?
4. anyone here added springs on 3X20 pins(step 20) that way the brake will at least go back to its original position when brake is applied.

sorry if im asking a lot of questions. the manual has poor instructions. Im just relying on its pictures.
I'll try to disconnect all ball connection, and if I need to do, try first to remove the screw rather than dislodging the ball. Is the first step to have a slop free steering.

Basically yes, you can put a dab of stealth grease on the balls to ensure that moves freely, don't put an excess or when the shoe is moved all the grease goes to the bell thus failing on the shifts. Better to put a very small quantity of Ron Paris grease (the green one).

You might need to put threadlock on very few places during assembly of the car, I have two types of threadlock: Blue loctite and the Tamiya one. Used the loctite one at places you shouldn't usually need to unscrew (balls that go on the steering assembly - inner side) and used the tamiya one who is more gummy on the rest (anti roll bar, balls that go on the front uprights and the exhaust pipe support screw).

Don't lose time testing the springs between brake pads, just ensure that the brake rotor don't binds and you'll have a real good brake.
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Old 04-18-2003, 07:55 AM   #2947
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dg8one use the stock setup for dougs track

i already told you before

you have better run it stock before you change anything

you could easily make it worse than stock by changing too much

i have run dougs with stock setup it works great i am going to try 30k rear diff this week but i may have to go back to my 10k rear diff because the track is tight

i have run my car there stock for over 2 hours and i never wanted to change anything its perfect already except 37 kit tires are probably too soft for that surface i will use 40s or maybe 42s

read and listen to that setup sheet and it will be the fastest car you ever drove

mess with it a whole bunch and your going to screw yourself

you will see my car tommorrow and then maybe you will believe i run the kit setup

my only change is going to be gear ratio and possibly the 30k rear diff

i havent run the 30k on dougs yet just richmond
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Old 04-18-2003, 02:19 PM   #2948
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jason

i'll be there 2morow but not gonna run, still thinking what motor to get. dont worry i'll check you out can u let me try (drive) it for a couple of laps

thanks
nelly
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Old 04-18-2003, 02:50 PM   #2949
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you aint driving my car ive heard about your driving

sorry
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Old 04-18-2003, 02:52 PM   #2950
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Quote:
Originally posted by puma1824
I saw somewhere either on this forum or somewhere else that sombody used a Trinity Reflex Sealed Receiver box instead of the open Mugen Receiver mount.

Anyone know if this is a direct fit and/or who posted this pic so I can refer to it and ask.

Thanks,
Puma
here is a link also the kfactory is the same and cheaper

http://www.rcracechat.co.uk/ubbthrea...b=5&o=0&fpart=

also read this thread fully most of the questions have already been answered
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Old 04-18-2003, 05:28 PM   #2951
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problem droop

how do you set the front droop? notice that the front swaybar have that thing on the left side that you can move

thanks
nelly
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Old 04-18-2003, 10:54 PM   #2952
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Where's the best (cheapest) place to buy spare parts for the MTX3 online? My LHS doesn't carry the parts in stock and if they were to order it would be expensive.

Any suggestions on what to stock up on and/or which parts to replace with aluminum to minimize replacement?

Thanks,
Puma

BTW got the car to finally compare myself whether or not it is or isn't better than my NTC3
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Old 04-18-2003, 11:19 PM   #2953
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Quote:
Originally posted by puma1824
Where's the best (cheapest) place to buy spare parts for the MTX3 online? My LHS doesn't carry the parts in stock and if they were to order it would be expensive.

Any suggestions on what to stock up on and/or which parts to replace with aluminum to minimize replacement?

Thanks,
Puma

BTW got the car to finally compare myself whether or not it is or isn't better than my NTC3
must have items, engine brace, wheel hex adaptor, alloy rear sway bar retainer.

next less import replacements are mid shaft block, upper deck support, front sway bar holder.

performance items, lighten/hollow main shaft, lightweight mid shaft, Ti pivot balls, Ti screw sets.
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Old 04-18-2003, 11:41 PM   #2954
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore
must have items, engine brace, wheel hex adaptor, alloy rear sway bar retainer.

next less import replacements are mid shaft block, upper deck support, front sway bar holder.

performance items, lighten/hollow main shaft, lightweight mid shaft, Ti pivot balls, Ti screw sets.
Where can I get these online?

Thanks,
Puma
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Old 04-19-2003, 12:40 AM   #2955
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Try here

http://catalog.rcmodel.com.hk/
Or get the part numbers and email here [email protected]
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