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Old 04-04-2003, 07:37 PM   #2761
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Quote:
Originally posted by Novarossi
I still haven't installed my 4mm Chassis yet, But I was comparing the stock chassis to the 4mm chassis, and noticed there was an extra screw slot near the brake - what is this for? The original chassis doesn't not have this (see pic)
the second batch of mtx3s chassis comes with the extra screw slot too. i thought i missed out on something when im fixing the car.
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:42 PM   #2762
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Quote:
Originally posted by penggoy
hi guys im planning on buying an mtx3. i just have a few questions.

1. where can I get a good deal on this kit online (kit w/o engine)?

2. what are the part/s that usually breaks or anything that needs to be replaced or added to the kit . I want to know this/these so I can add it/them to my shopping cart that way I can save on s/h.

3. can I use the ae starter box if I turn the flywheel 90 deg from its stock position on the mtx3?

4. I want to put rdlogics pipe on it but I noticed on their website that there are two kinds of pipe, one turbo and the other nonturbo. whats the difference between them?What part # are u guys using?

many many thnx muah
anyone?
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:51 PM   #2763
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I buy from speedtech, and they are ascheapas anybody

Look at my question a couple post back, that should help you on buying spares

Im sure you can turn the rubber wheel of the starter box to work, but as you said, changing the flywheel of the car, This willnot work, that is a shaft configuration, this is a belt driven car.

the pipe ive used the last 3 years is the stock mugen/novarossi pipe that came with the mtx-2

i assume that u should get the pipe that refers to what kind of button you have on your engine

hope thispoints you in the right direction


by the way, you wont go wrong with this car
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Old 04-04-2003, 09:02 PM   #2764
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Default front gear diff and spring

hey guys... in the process of buying more stuff for this car. trying to find other parts to complete the front gear diff. is this all I need?

C0228 Mugen Diff Gear W/O-ring $8.79
C0227 Mugen Spacers for MTX-2 $9.49
T0244 Mugen MTX-3 S5 O-rings $2.50
T0243 Mugen MTX-3 S3 O-rings $1.89

Is this it to make the conversion? I think I also need a 6x6mm flat head screws.

Also, Is the purple springs harder or softer than the stock light blue one?

TIA!
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Old 04-04-2003, 09:30 PM   #2765
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Default Re: front gear diff and spring

Quote:
Originally posted by Sike
hey guys... in the process of buying more stuff for this car. trying to find other parts to complete the front gear diff. is this all I need?

C0228 Mugen Diff Gear W/O-ring $8.79
C0227 Mugen Spacers for MTX-2 $9.49
T0244 Mugen MTX-3 S5 O-rings $2.50
T0243 Mugen MTX-3 S3 O-rings $1.89

Is this it to make the conversion? I think I also need a 6x6mm flat head screws.

Also, Is the purple springs harder or softer than the stock light blue one?

TIA!
purples are softer
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Old 04-04-2003, 11:47 PM   #2766
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sike you will need

C0228 Mugen Diff Gear W/O-ring $8.79
C0227 Mugen Spacers for MTX-2 $9.49
T0244 Mugen MTX-3 S5 O-rings $2.50
T0243 Mugen MTX-3 S3 O-rings $1.89
plus TO202 & TO215 they are the outdrives and the pins for the outdrives
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Old 04-05-2003, 02:49 AM   #2767
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mugenites, the screw hole next to the brake disk pins os not for weight saving.

the newer kits come with a plastic brake stopper so you can either choose to use the pins or the plastic brake stopper.

stop hopping up your mugen micheal it's bad for the wallet!
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Old 04-05-2003, 04:33 AM   #2768
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Im sure mugen wouldnt have a problem sending us the new brake stopper, Do you think its worth the trouble though? i wonder if it helps with reducing all that drag from the brake
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Old 04-05-2003, 05:36 AM   #2769
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I think the new brake stopper is not incorporated because of brake binding, but because there is a good chance that the older roll pins vibrate loose and fall out.

Happened to a few guys at our track...
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Old 04-05-2003, 12:53 PM   #2770
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
I think the new brake stopper is not incorporated because of brake binding, but because there is a good chance that the older roll pins vibrate loose and fall out.
When I assembled the ones that go on the chassis and the rear bulkhead I put a small dab of silicone to help on the vibrations and not stick (the secret is to install at the first attempt - used a 300grms hammer to do in only one knock, you must to have a good eye to do -, if not, the pin can be damaged and not grip well on the chassis).

BTW: Beware with the fingers and nails, all are fatally attracted by huge hammers and this really hurts, specially on the throttle finger
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Old 04-05-2003, 01:35 PM   #2771
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
I think the new brake stopper is not incorporated because of brake binding, but because there is a good chance that the older roll pins vibrate loose and fall out.

Happened to a few guys at our track...
best to knock then through so a bit is sticking out, then grind away the taper on the end. then knock them back flush
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Old 04-05-2003, 01:37 PM   #2772
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Default Front belt wear

Hi Guys,

I've started to race on a bigger track. It was built for 1/8th's.

The MTX-3 handles well on this track & I'm having lots of fun.


I've noticed that the front belt is showing alot of wear + its getting quite loose.

Have any of you guys noticed this? Can you get a front belt tensioner?

All the best
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Old 04-05-2003, 01:44 PM   #2773
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Default Re: Front belt wear

Quote:
Originally posted by click, dublin
I've noticed that the front belt is showing alot of wear + its getting quite loose.

Have any of you guys noticed this? Can you get a front belt tensioner?
Probably you're suffering the same I experienced some time ago (Belts scoring on the external side and ripping the internal wires). Changed to a brand new belt and at the time it is holding very well (knock on wood....). Could be out there a batch of faulty belts? (ocurred to me twice times).

Front belt after some time goes loose, but haven't noticed that is skipping under heavy acceleration, so that's better (tight belts put more drag...) for me until they start to skip tooths.
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Old 04-05-2003, 01:49 PM   #2774
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Default BRAKE ROLL PINS

When installing the roll pins, make sure the seam faces away from the brake disk/pads. The seam side is slightly raised and this could be why some of you are experiencing binding brakes.

I assembled my car without sanding the pads(teflon) and installed the roll pins as described above. There was very little binding at first but now its gone since the pads broke in.

Most of the resistance seems to come from the tight side belt.
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Old 04-05-2003, 01:53 PM   #2775
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Default Re: Re: Front belt wear

Quote:
Originally posted by Corse-R
Probably you're suffering the same I experienced some time ago (Belts scoring on the external side and ripping the internal wires). Changed to a brand new belt and at the time it is holding very well (knock on wood....). Could be out there a batch of faulty belts? (ocurred to me twice times).

Front belt after some time goes loose, but haven't noticed that is skipping under heavy acceleration, so that's better (tight belts put more drag...) for me until they start to skip tooths.

do you have and alloy mid block? i do and my belt was rubbing on there! had to get my dremal out!
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