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Old 03-30-2003, 11:26 PM   #2686
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
.......




another annoying snake !!
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Old 03-30-2003, 11:40 PM   #2687
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jfawwaz
the guy on the left is really stylin with those shorts.

i really want an MTX3 but the parking lots i run on arent the cleanest.. any suggestions?
That would be the Rocket man's good luck racing uniform.
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Old 03-31-2003, 12:00 AM   #2688
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kevin
i guess he doesn't like my shorts.... you gonna run this week?
if our motors show up we (gil and i) will run this weekend to break the in

later
Ron
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Old 03-31-2003, 12:35 AM   #2689
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Default Re: Re: Front Diff Leaking

Quote:
Originally posted by darthkir
You should change the screws to longer and wider caps. Apply CA around the diff case. This worked for me.

DO NOT DO THIS! AS ABOVE. USE THE STANDARD SCREWS AND SOME RTV SILICONE. (THE SORT FROM YOUR AUTO STORE) AND IT WILL BE FINE
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Old 03-31-2003, 01:23 AM   #2690
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Default Re: hard time starting my engine..

Quote:
Originally posted by RClover
phew...had a hard time starting my Rody Tuned 5 port. My starter box motors (540 x2) were toasted...
what starter box u guys are using?
the MTX-3 chassis flywheel slot is so small thus making it even tougher to start the engine...
I use a team magic box, coupled with 12 Ni-Cd cells (find them more portable, powerful and less bulky than a 12v Gel Cell). My box starts not only Rodys, starts too the .21 engines that I use on my MRX3 without taking a sweat on it.

When I need to charge the cells, charge on batches of 6 without problems with my charger, so if they go down on the middle of the day a quick charge at 6A isn't a problem for them.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 03-31-2003, 01:32 AM   #2691
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rocket Ronbo
kevin
i guess he doesn't like my shorts.... you gonna run this week?
if our motors show up we (gil and i) will run this weekend to break the in

later
Ron
Hey On Road guy. I should be there Sat. Tried the setup today with 42/40's, worked pretty good, but I think I may try to tweak it a little more to accomodate my driving "style" ( ). Now I'm wondering what motors you and Gil are gettin'.
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Old 03-31-2003, 07:04 AM   #2692
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Exclamation crystal security

......what a....FOOL PROOFING YOUR MTX3:

before you do something stupid and blame everybody in the pits (like me) do the following to ensure your crystal doesn't fall out.

WRAP ELLECTRICAL TAPE AROUND THE CRYSTAL.

i found mine coming loose during 10 minute heats!
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Old 03-31-2003, 07:53 AM   #2693
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Forgot about that, I use 12 NiMH cells in my Mugen starter box.
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Old 03-31-2003, 10:23 AM   #2694
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i have a rubber band around my crystal and maybe switching to a o-ring bought a failsafe too
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Old 03-31-2003, 07:58 PM   #2695
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Quote:
Originally posted by tennessee
I went back to the stock settup for the last round of qualifying

I did lay the front shocks down all the way.

I went 1 hole up on the rear shocks

37 fronts 62mm 40 rears at 62.5

I used the old stratus body

Droop was 2 in front and 6 in rear

Sway bars were both flat

16-20 pinion 43-47 spurs

61215L RD-LOGICS 1 piece pipe

Ran the same in the main except 45 degress on the front swaybar
TN how do you measure droop (on this car)?

I noticed this car doesn't like really small tires nor overdrive like my RR used to. I called myself tweaking the setup and screwed up a TQ...now going back to stock.

Last edited by patelladragger; 03-31-2003 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 04-01-2003, 12:09 PM   #2696
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Wink Hi

Hello everyone!!
I just got my MTX3 today. I probably will start putting together tonight I had a MTX2 before, so I have some experience with Mugen.
1. Could you please give tips or tell me things that are not written in the manual?
2. I didn't get any hop ups yet, which do you think I should get first?
3. I also notice that there are many hop up brands out there... is any of them better than the others?

Thanks!!
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Old 04-01-2003, 12:19 PM   #2697
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Default Suggestions

Pepe,

I built my whole car and then went back and read the part about sanding the brake pads down. which meant taking the whole car apart and sanding putting them together and seeing if it was enough or if I needed to do more.

I ended up having to sand each brake shoe down to 1.94 mm just shy of 2.0 mm. (combination of steel pad backing and the pad. Hope that helps.

I have not gotten any hop ups for mine yet since I have not been able to run it yet.

Good luck.
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Old 04-01-2003, 12:51 PM   #2698
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Default Re: Hi

Quote:
Originally posted by Pepe
Hello everyone!!
I just got my MTX3 today. I probably will start putting together tonight I had a MTX2 before, so I have some experience with Mugen.
1. Could you please give tips or tell me things that are not written in the manual?
2. I didn't get any hop ups yet, which do you think I should get first?
3. I also notice that there are many hop up brands out there... is any of them better than the others?
Uhm, probably the better (but the sickest) would be to read the entire thread, some 'issues' have been arised on cars, but you should pay attention to:

- Brake pads, are too thick, glue them with contact cement (not CA) and press them on a vise. Probably you'll need to sand them to clear properly the disk.
- Throttle servo. If you use a Futaba or similar size, probably you can fit it under the radio tray rather than putting over, this helps to lower the CG of the car.

Regarding hopups.... you'd better may contact with Manticore is our 'Hop-up maniac'... he surely can suggest lots of hop ups for your car, but in their stock incarnation is enough good. Test it on a box stock config and get whatever hop-ups you want/desire/need. But probably if you navigat thru the pages and see the many photos posted here you can get an idea of what to pick.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 04-01-2003, 02:17 PM   #2699
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hey guys... I see those vented brake disk. Are they thinner than stock? I think I saw it on justrc.com for around $4 a piece.

Also, a few pages back, I saw somebody with a brake disk with holes just about in every place where you can still drill it. Any info on that?

I took the car apart again coz the brake still drag a bit. I sanded the ninja star and brake disk and there's this tiny resistance. While I was at it, I took the rear diff apart coz it seems that there's no fliud, I was right... so I put some fliud and put silicon in between the housing... let it dry for 5 min and close it... when I have the car back together, I saw that thing leaking. Mannn I know I tighten everything up. So I just put silicon on the little... Well picture attached.

btw, I am using the air filter that came with the car and it fits the .12 sirio perfectly, I am looking for a motor saver for it though but what size is this?

help is always greatly appreciated

TIA!
-Sike
>=]
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Old 04-01-2003, 02:40 PM   #2700
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Default Rear Diff Leaks

Guys,

I have used a thin layer of Trinity's "Purple Stuff" on both sides of the gasket, which is a very thick silicone paste (non-drying) and my diff is as dry as the Sahara Desert

Oval racers use this stuff on pancar kingpins for dampening.
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