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Old 03-21-2003, 10:04 AM   #2596
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Hi,
I am planning to sell my mtx2 to get the 3. I am wondering what should I keep from the bunch of stuff I got for the mtx2....
Do they use the same tires? I have many FAST tires 26 mm
Are some parts interchangeable?
Would it be worth to keep the micro centax clutch?
etc, etc, etc
Thanks!!
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Old 03-21-2003, 10:30 AM   #2597
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pepe is that you?

if it is i am sure you know who i am

pepe the tires will work if you have spacers behind the wheel hex

your mtx2 may have them already if it was pro spec

keep your micro clutch eric is using his old micro clutch

few if any parts are interchangeable except bearings and body mounts and bumper maybe a few more but i dont think so

pm me if you have more questions pepe
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Old 03-21-2003, 03:02 PM   #2598
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Thanks Jason, I got your PM.
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Old 03-21-2003, 07:24 PM   #2599
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Default Clutch Not Engaging

hello guys. First post here Hope maybe somebody can help me out with this little problem I have.

I have set my radio to open the throttle not more than half way. I started the car and I hear it revving up... but the clutch didn't seem to engage. there's no binding on the brakes and when pushby hand it moves freely.

I have follow the manual illustration on how to install this centax clutch, this is my first one but I did what the manual says. Is there anything am I missing? btw, I lube the thrust bearing with some grease. The only I have was gear grease. I'll get some high temp one later.

btw, The thrust bearing opening faces the flywheel, correct?
p.s. I have a Sirio .12 Roar

TIA!
-Sike
>=]
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Old 03-21-2003, 07:42 PM   #2600
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Default Re: Clutch Not Engaging

Quote:
Originally posted by Sike
hello guys. First post here Hope maybe somebody can help me out with this little problem I have.

I have set my radio to open the throttle not more than half way. I started the car and I hear it revving up... but the clutch didn't seem to engage. there's no binding on the brakes and when pushby hand it moves freely.

I have follow the manual illustration on how to install this centax clutch, this is my first one but I did what the manual says. Is there anything am I missing? btw, I lube the thrust bearing with some grease. The only I have was gear grease. I'll get some high temp one later.

btw, The thrust bearing opening faces the flywheel, correct?
p.s. I have a Sirio .12 Roar

TIA!
-Sike
>=]
The spring inside your clutch is set to far in. The more you screw the spring in, the later your cluth will engage. Take off the flywheel and loosen the spring, keep doing this until your happy.
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Old 03-21-2003, 08:06 PM   #2601
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I still don't get it though. The instruction and what you said make sense but just doesn't though

here's the thing, the manual says tighten the nut that holds the spring so it will have a .6 to 1 mm gap. but if I do that, the clutch bell touches the clutch. The good thing about this is that little gap on the thread makes the bearing spins freely (thread holding the inner part of the bearing).

If I loosen it almost all the way, the clutch beel doesn't touch the clutch but there's only like a thread of the nut holding the spring.

Am I forgetting something?
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Old 03-21-2003, 08:07 PM   #2602
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just finished buidlng my kit, i noticed the gap between the flywheel and the engine is about 1mm-1.3mm, is there something wrong here?
FYI, i used the engine (RB) supplied collet on the flywheel. Some said the kit supplied a collet but i cant find it neither the manual indicates this collet in the kit.
Helps appreciated!
cheers
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Old 03-21-2003, 08:20 PM   #2603
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i have with me the Light Weight Centrifugal Clutch Shoes.
There are 2 holes on each shoes. When installing, should i place the shoe (through one of its holes) into the flywheel pin?
OR i place the shoes like stock shoes (between the pins)?

cheers
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Old 03-21-2003, 08:59 PM   #2604
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sike
I still don't get it though. The instruction and what you said make sense but just doesn't though

here's the thing, the manual says tighten the nut that holds the spring so it will have a .6 to 1 mm gap. but if I do that, the clutch bell touches the clutch. The good thing about this is that little gap on the thread makes the bearing spins freely (thread holding the inner part of the bearing).

If I loosen it almost all the way, the clutch beel doesn't touch the clutch but there's only like a thread of the nut holding the spring.

Am I forgetting something?
We use spacers/washers between the inner bearing and the spring. Keep shimming it until the clutchbell spins freely.
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Old 03-21-2003, 09:01 PM   #2605
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Quote:
Originally posted by RClover
i have with me the Light Weight Centrifugal Clutch Shoes.
There are 2 holes on each shoes. When installing, should i place the shoe (through one of its holes) into the flywheel pin?
OR i place the shoes like stock shoes (between the pins)?

cheers
These has holes drilled into them to make them lighter and react faster. Place these in as normal, do not place these into the flywheel pins (not sure how you were planning to achieve this anyway)
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Old 03-22-2003, 05:13 AM   #2606
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sike
I still don't get it though. The instruction and what you said make sense but just doesn't though

here's the thing, the manual says tighten the nut that holds the spring so it will have a .6 to 1 mm gap. but if I do that, the clutch bell touches the clutch. The good thing about this is that little gap on the thread makes the bearing spins freely (thread holding the inner part of the bearing).

If I loosen it almost all the way, the clutch beel doesn't touch the clutch but there's only like a thread of the nut holding the spring.

Am I forgetting something?
Sike, I had the same problem. The instruction sheet doesn't say to use any loctite, but using blue loctite in the nut solved my problem. Good luck
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Old 03-22-2003, 11:23 AM   #2607
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pepe
Sike, I had the same problem. The instruction sheet doesn't say to use any loctite, but using blue loctite in the nut solved my problem. Good luck
should not nead to use loctite


set the clutch as the book .8 is good and .3 endfloat
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Old 03-22-2003, 07:23 PM   #2608
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i dont know what you guys are doing wrong

i used the collet from my engines (2) i have installed this clutch on so far so the collet ought not be the problem

i had to do it a couple times to get the end spacing right because i thought i needed washers behind the collet and i did not

but it seemed really simple can you post pictures maybe then we could help?
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Old 03-22-2003, 08:31 PM   #2609
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Quote:
Originally posted by jason102276
i dont know what you guys are doing wrong

i used the collet from my engines (2) i have installed this clutch on so far so the collet ought not be the problem

i had to do it a couple times to get the end spacing right because i thought i needed washers behind the collet and i did not

but it seemed really simple can you post pictures maybe then we could help?
finally, i used a spare collet from my old RR kit and the gap (between flywheel and engine) reduced to 0.7mm instead of 1mm which i think is too big a gap.
But i ended up shimming more at the trust bearing holder to make it araound 0.4mm endfloat.

Another problem is the side belt that almost rub against the manifold. I have to file a flat area on the manifold for that belt clearance and increase the belt tension on the tensioner. The side belt now is a little more compressed than before.
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Old 03-22-2003, 08:51 PM   #2610
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Quote:
Originally posted by Novarossi
We use spacers/washers between the inner bearing and the spring. Keep shimming it until the clutchbell spins freely.
did you mean the clutch bell spins freely when holding the engine with the crankshaft pointing up?
also, MTX-3 kit didnt supply the shims that you just mentioned, but RR does supply these shims (between the flywheel nut and the inner bearing)
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