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Old 01-12-2011, 12:57 PM   #17221
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Thanks for the reply, I will run it again as is although I found it swapping ends very easily! prob my driving
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:53 PM   #17222
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Thanks for the reply, I will run it again as is although I found it swapping ends very easily! prob my driving
MTX3 is understeering car by birth.

But if your rear end still not stable, make sure that you :

1. always use fresh tires before testing and racing ( big difference !! )

2. use downstop value +1 at front, +4 at rear

3. use A rear blocks ( lower suspension mount that hold rear lower hinge pins )

4. use 3mm rear toe in

5. use 3mm shim on top of rear uprights
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:46 PM   #17223
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Just picked up one of these to try out nitro onroad. I've been running electric sedan for quite sometime and just moved to Houston and electric racing is kinda blah around here... Plus my now home track is gulf coast where the worlds were last year. World class facility for and the off road is awesome also.

Wanting to know some of the things you guys are doing now that are still running this car to make it more competitive. If anything really.. I'm sure it will be great to start with but it is just a car to test my interest.

Any tips will be appreciated.
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:47 PM   #17224
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Originally Posted by Tha Skinny View Post
Just picked up one of these to try out nitro onroad. I've been running electric sedan for quite sometime and just moved to Houston and electric racing is kinda blah around here... Plus my now home track is gulf coast where the worlds were last year. World class facility for and the off road is awesome also.

Wanting to know some of the things you guys are doing now that are still running this car to make it more competitive. If anything really.. I'm sure it will be great to start with but it is just a car to test my interest.

Any tips will be appreciated.
Honestly speaking, MTX3 is no match to current cars like RRR WC, NT1, MTX4R. ( Unless mike swauger or robert pietch is driving the mtx3 ).

MTX3 is old designed car : high cg upper deck, big differential gearbox, less tuneable suspension arms, and still using plastic bulkheads.

My tips to you : Replace the middle belt's 19t pulley with 18t pulley ( the pulley behind the manifold ). It's much nicer to drive with 18t pulley , less understeering. Also use 3mm tire split ( front 61mm, rear 64mm ).
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:49 AM   #17225
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Honestly speaking, MTX3 is no match to current cars like RRR WC, NT1, MTX4R. ( Unless mike swauger or robert pietch is driving the mtx3 ).

MTX3 is old designed car : high cg upper deck, big differential gearbox, less tuneable suspension arms, and still using plastic bulkheads.

My tips to you : Replace the middle belt's 19t pulley with 18t pulley ( the pulley behind the manifold ). It's much nicer to drive with 18t pulley , less understeering. Also use 3mm tire split ( front 61mm, rear 64mm ).
Thanks for the input... But I'm not actually racing with worlds drivers...... Lol mostly for club racing. I have been looking at another car for quite some time and drool when I see it! (733) I just want to make sure this is for me before I decide to purchase another. Who knows it may work well for a bit. I do like to drive a oneway so we will see. Thanks for the info on the pulley option, I may try it out. I do tend to like understear on occasion.
Could you explain tire split? Is it the distance from the ball joint to to arm?
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:29 AM   #17226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tha Skinny View Post
Thanks for the input... But I'm not actually racing with worlds drivers...... Lol mostly for club racing. I have been looking at another car for quite some time and drool when I see it! (733) I just want to make sure this is for me before I decide to purchase another. Who knows it may work well for a bit. I do like to drive a oneway so we will see. Thanks for the info on the pulley option, I may try it out. I do tend to like understear on occasion.
Could you explain tire split? Is it the distance from the ball joint to to arm?
tire split is how much smaller you true or cut the front tires more then the rear ones. if no one at you club trues their tires find a cheap tire truer and don't tell them for awhile and you just may have a little advantage over them
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:31 AM   #17227
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Oh ok, thanks lol
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:37 PM   #17228
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What ae the differences between the standard car and the pro spec? Basically how can you tell the difference in the two cars.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:47 PM   #17229
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It's been a long time last time I raced this car.
Some of the differences are, 4mm chassis, rear sway bar, CVD's, 0.8 gears.
I have a Pro-Spec for sale with some parts, I'll get rid of it cheap.

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Old 01-24-2011, 01:49 PM   #17230
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The car is in great condition
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Old 01-24-2011, 05:14 PM   #17231
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i have a lot of mtx 3 and 4 parts and mrx 3 and 4 parts
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:54 PM   #17232
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What oil weight should I run with the blue springs? Im guessing thick... 50 and up?
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:26 PM   #17233
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What oil weight should I run with the blue springs? Im guessing thick... 50 and up?
I used 600wt mugen oil front and rear with stock pistons.
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:29 PM   #17234
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I also used a diff front(100,000) and rear(30,000) oils, great starting point.
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:40 AM   #17235
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I am also looking into getting back into rc racing. But I live in ohio so tracks are mainly parking lot tracks. will this car hold up or am i wasting my time. I don't want to blow the bank on the car but is the car worth it to race on the weekends.
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