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Old 09-06-2006, 01:40 AM   #16786
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Forget suspension arms, bulkheads, carbon fibre parts, brake pads, chassis, fuel tank, pinions, rear diff, rear upright, lower susp. mounts, bumper, coz they are different.

Only clutch systems, king pin balls, pulleys, pulley shafts, turnbuckles, pivot balls, plastics ball connectors, screws, spur gears, flywheel, engine mounting, clutchbell, centax systems ( except the locknut ), hinge pins, front 1 way, front uprights, bearings can be transfer / use.

MTX3 rear uprights and front upper susp. can be use but I'm not sure with the geometry of the car afterwards.
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:00 AM   #16787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RR
wow

you win alot of races...

hmm... then i should get tips from you ...

thanks in advance first
Sorry RR, maybe I give wrong impression...... I wasn't trying to show off.

I was trying to convince people what I did ( to my clutch ) is race proven and safe to use. I won't give bad advice to people. If people would like to try the idea, I'll be happy to hear their comments.
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Old 09-06-2006, 03:28 AM   #16788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Forget suspension arms, bulkheads, carbon fibre parts, brake pads, chassis, fuel tank, pinions, rear diff, rear upright, lower susp. mounts, bumper, coz they are different.

Only clutch systems, king pin balls, pulleys, pulley shafts, turnbuckles, pivot balls, plastics ball connectors, screws, spur gears, flywheel, engine mounting, clutchbell, centax systems ( except the locknut ), hinge pins, front 1 way, front uprights, bearings can be transfer / use.

MTX3 rear uprights and front upper susp. can be use but I'm not sure with the geometry of the car afterwards.

the front one-way is different
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Old 09-06-2006, 06:56 PM   #16789
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UPDATE!

Mugen MTX3 1/10th On-Road screw kits are now in stock!



Mugen MTX3 1/10th On-Road 208-piece high grade 12.9 alloy steel socket head screw kit. Kit includes all applicable cap, flat and button head screws, as well as nuts, washers, lock washers and set screws.

Kits will begin shipping Friday, September 8th, 2006.

Thanks and best regards,
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Old 09-09-2006, 10:23 PM   #16790
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Can some one please explain gearing to me, I got a used mtx-3 prospec and it came with a bunch of gears that I dont know how to use. correct to if im wrong running .8 means that you should have no more then a 6tooth gap? my current gearing is 20/28 and 60/53 will this work or is this way off all the gears I have except for the default pinions and Im trying to make this work with out breaking anything. I was also wondering how come the default gears are so different then the serpent 710
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Old 09-10-2006, 11:47 AM   #16791
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0.8 is the pitch ( distance between each tooth ).

Early generation of MTX3 use 1.0 pitch. Similar for MRX3 and MRX4.

Prospec cars get 0.8 gears. Original Spur Gears are 53 & 59, and Pinions are 21/27.

Serpent cars have different internal gear ratios than Mugen's.
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Old 09-10-2006, 03:50 PM   #16792
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Thanks, now that I got that, can the teeth on the spur or pinion be more the 6 teeth apart i.e. can I run a 20/28 and 60/53

these are the gears I have:

pinion 1st= 15,20,22
2nd= 19,21,25,28,29

spur 1st= 59,60,47
2nd= 42,43,44,52,53,54

what gear set could I use to get a good mixture of acceleration and top speed?

thanks again for all your help
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:06 AM   #16793
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IMO, it's up to you.

pinion gears : 22/28-29

spur gears : 53/59 ( normal ) 52/58 ( long straight )

Rule of thumb: increasing pinion gears get twice the effect from decreasing spur gears.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:35 AM   #16794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devious17
Dick, replace the set screw that is in the middle with a longer one as discussed.The other two on the sides are used to calibrate your two speed clutch.Loosening them would have the second gear engaged faster and vice versa.
well just to let you guys know, i did that and have not had a problem in about 14 hours of use so all good thanks for the tips?
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:24 PM   #16795
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Old 09-13-2006, 01:11 PM   #16796
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devious17, I have the same problem as dick on the 2nd speed. When replaceing the longer set screw, do you grease & put the little steel ball back or without it???
Thanks.
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:42 PM   #16797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E.T.
devious17, I have the same problem as dick on the 2nd speed. When replaceing the longer set screw, do you grease & put the little steel ball back or without it???
Thanks.
E.T. - discard the ball and dont grease the set screw. The clutch will slip if you apply grease onto the screw. With this modification I never had to replace the adaptor since and it has been 2 gallons since doing it.
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Old 09-14-2006, 03:58 AM   #16798
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THANKS!!
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Old 09-14-2006, 01:51 PM   #16799
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Thanks, devious17. I've searched & can't find the answer in the pervious post. I'm assembling my 2nd speed clutch now. But don't know how much gap should I leave between the long set screw & the adaptor??
Should I leave a little gap, run the car & from there I adjust accordingly?
Thanks again.
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Old 09-14-2006, 09:23 PM   #16800
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For the set screw replacing the ball I set mine just barely touching the two speed adaptor and as for the two speed change you'll have to set it on the tracks.

If the gap between the clutch shoe and the second speed gear holder is too excessive then you may need to change the clutch to minimise the gap between.

I would advice you to test both, set screw barely touching and set screw firmly on the adaptor(to minimise gap between shoe and holder). I personally havent tried the second option and I am predicting it'll work too.

Hope this helps.
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