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Old 08-22-2006, 08:24 AM   #16726
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Default somethings is not right!! need help plz

hi i have only had my car for a month and am a newbie to nitro rc.
the car is 2nd hand and has been fine apart from a few knocks and a broken rear arm.
i was at the track the other day and 1 of the guys who knows a bit about the cars was having a quick look over it for me.he said it all looked good but my gears had to much of a gap between them and the gogs from the engine.
we went to undo the engine mount screws to adjust thepostion and 1 of the screws was stripped. i got it out but the thread in the eninge mount was gone ,so i had to buy a new 1.

so all good changed the engine mount and but engine back in making sure the gears and gog was togehter and had no gap. when i took the engine out i only undone the mount,nothing else not even the throttle control(was able to do it without taking anything off and just thought it would be easyer to put back)

went down to the track and started her up and it sounded a bit diff than normal(bit more high pitched)

went to drive and had to rev a lot higher than normal to get clutch engaged.
humm
so i went round a few times and it seemed ok so i thought i would open her up.

some thing very odd is going on with the gears /clutch. sometimes it wont change,other times it seems its stuck in second and it also when it gets to the point when it should change sometimes its sound gose right down to a low pitch growl or gurgle and seems to lose a lot of power,which i guess is not good cause it never sounded like that before.i have been running this car for at least 10 hours prob free and cant think wat this is.
i did not touch the hsl or anything else so i dont see why the tuning can have changed.

thanks for taking the time to read this and thanks for any replys.

if you got any ideas wat the prob could be or wat to look at that would be great.

have i lost my tuning? is the gear and gogs to close now?(they are near enough touching where i had about a 1 mm gap before)

?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:50 PM   #16727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dick dastardly
hi i have only had my car for a month and am a newbie to nitro rc.
the car is 2nd hand and has been fine apart from a few knocks and a broken rear arm.
i was at the track the other day and 1 of the guys who knows a bit about the cars was having a quick look over it for me.he said it all looked good but my gears had to much of a gap between them and the gogs from the engine.
we went to undo the engine mount screws to adjust thepostion and 1 of the screws was stripped. i got it out but the thread in the eninge mount was gone ,so i had to buy a new 1.

so all good changed the engine mount and but engine back in making sure the gears and gog was togehter and had no gap. when i took the engine out i only undone the mount,nothing else not even the throttle control(was able to do it without taking anything off and just thought it would be easyer to put back)

went down to the track and started her up and it sounded a bit diff than normal(bit more high pitched)

went to drive and had to rev a lot higher than normal to get clutch engaged.
humm
so i went round a few times and it seemed ok so i thought i would open her up.

some thing very odd is going on with the gears /clutch. sometimes it wont change,other times it seems its stuck in second and it also when it gets to the point when it should change sometimes its sound gose right down to a low pitch growl or gurgle and seems to lose a lot of power,which i guess is not good cause it never sounded like that before.i have been running this car for at least 10 hours prob free and cant think wat this is.
i did not touch the hsl or anything else so i dont see why the tuning can have changed.

thanks for taking the time to read this and thanks for any replys.

if you got any ideas wat the prob could be or wat to look at that would be great.

have i lost my tuning? is the gear and gogs to close now?(they are near enough touching where i had about a 1 mm gap before)

?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????
You need expert to accompany you setting the car.

3 things to check:

1. Engine HSN and LSN
2. Centax Clutch Spring tension. Should be 0.6mm to 0.8mm at the spring locknut, and 0.2mm at the end of thrust bearing.
3. 2 speed clutch shoe. Buy a new set and set it right. I prefer to use MTX4 2 speed clutch with longer M3 screw ( M3x10 ) and toss the ball out.
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:52 AM   #16728
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You need expert to accompany you setting the car.

3 things to check:

1. Engine HSN and LSN
2. Centax Clutch Spring tension. Should be 0.6mm to 0.8mm at the spring locknut, and 0.2mm at the end of thrust bearing.
3. 2 speed clutch shoe. Buy a new set and set it right. I prefer to use MTX4 2 speed clutch with longer M3 screw ( M3x10 ) and toss the ball out.

Thanks for the advice asw7576, iam gonna try to goto the track this weekend and hope some1 is there that can help me.
so you dont think it is anything to do with the gears and gogs being too close ???
i read somewhere there should be a slight gap or they bind(watever that means)
whats the best way to line these up????
cheers again
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:09 AM   #16729
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Hey guys, how much longer till you think part for the MTX3 will be rare? I'm trying to find a car for a friend and spotted one with engine and pipe (and parts) for $250. Think it's worth a shot?
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:36 AM   #16730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Hey guys, how much longer till you think part for the MTX3 will be rare? I'm trying to find a car for a friend and spotted one with engine and pipe (and parts) for $250. Think it's worth a shot?


I sent you a PM on a new one I have with tons of spares.

James
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:48 AM   #16731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Hey guys, how much longer till you think part for the MTX3 will be rare? I'm trying to find a car for a friend and spotted one with engine and pipe (and parts) for $250. Think it's worth a shot?
Make to your friend a favor... convince it to get a MTX4, MTX3 was in fact good, but their 'worst defect' was a large tunning window that maked it somewhat irresponsive to small tunning changes.

The 4 is faster and responds better to small changes. If your friend in fact still wants a '3' maybe he has spare parts for another year or 1.5 years, but... better to go the '4' route.
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:34 PM   #16732
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22dasher- Sry, no thanks.


Corse-R- Makes sense. I'll do just that.
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Old 08-23-2006, 11:29 PM   #16733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarKonnenD
Hey guys, how much longer till you think part for the MTX3 will be rare? I'm trying to find a car for a friend and spotted one with engine and pipe (and parts) for $250. Think it's worth a shot?
I suggest don't. I recently bought use MRX3 and regret it. The cost of renovation is close to brand new MRX4-R.

Buy new car and enjoy it. Nothing compare to new car.
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Old 08-23-2006, 11:33 PM   #16734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dick dastardly
Thanks for the advice asw7576, iam gonna try to goto the track this weekend and hope some1 is there that can help me.
so you dont think it is anything to do with the gears and gogs being too close ???
i read somewhere there should be a slight gap or they bind(watever that means)
whats the best way to line these up????
cheers again
Try to spin the gears. If they can spin at least 1 second, you are good to go.
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:26 AM   #16735
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Default Front Diff Oil for MTX-3

Ok, quick question again fellas.
I read that some people recommended 100k oil in the front diff and I use 10k in the rear.
Our track is carpark and slippery most of the time, its not real long and there is a few s bends where braking is prefered thats why I want to change from the one way.
Any feedback for oil thickness would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Brett
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Old 08-28-2006, 07:12 AM   #16736
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I am looking for the parts that I need to get to setup a front diff. I donít have a manual and I canít down load it for the Mugen web site. Does anyone has a downloaded copy of the manual that they could e-mail? Any help would be appreciated.

Eric
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Old 08-28-2006, 07:22 AM   #16737
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjc
Ok, quick question again fellas.
I read that some people recommended 100k oil in the front diff and I use 10k in the rear.
Our track is carpark and slippery most of the time, its not real long and there is a few s bends where braking is prefered thats why I want to change from the one way.
Any feedback for oil thickness would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Brett
I ran 50K in my front diff. If I was really loose I would use 15K in the rear but most of the time I ran 30K in the rear.

I only ran A front diff when I ran a spec class when everyone had to run with rubber tires.
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Old 08-28-2006, 07:30 AM   #16738
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My local track is really small (115í X 50í) so there is no way we can run a one-way on it so I need to setup the front diff.
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Old 08-28-2006, 05:58 PM   #16739
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hey guys I keep stripping gears on my MTX3. I don't know much about the car and was wondering is this a common problem?
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:47 PM   #16740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Gebhard
I am looking for the parts that I need to get to setup a front diff. I donít have a manual and I canít down load it for the Mugen web site. Does anyone has a downloaded copy of the manual that they could e-mail? Any help would be appreciated.

Eric
Hi Eric,

Here ya go MTX3 Manual

Best regards,
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