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Old 07-23-2006, 10:51 AM   #16666
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What would be the starting pinion gear then if I keep the spur gears 6 teeth apart? I got the car used and I am pretty sure the gearing is way out of wack, someone just give me a baseline that won't chew up second gear and I will be very appreciative...
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Old 07-23-2006, 03:31 PM   #16667
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Im just learning nitro touring but Im running 53 and 59 tooth spurs. I beleive the pitch is .08
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Old 07-23-2006, 04:43 PM   #16668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigeRyan
Hey guys been looking all morning for this and can't seem to track it down, what is the gears that come in the .9 spur / ring gear set? I keep stripping second gear and I think it is because I have too big a gap from first gear to second...

Thanks!
AFIR... On my MTX3 with the 0.8 gearing I've used with success the 20/26 & 21/27 on the clutchbell. Sometimes I've used a 21/25, but only when I needed a very close and somewhat short gearing (tight tracks).
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Old 07-23-2006, 07:01 PM   #16669
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Thanks guys, I set my car up with a 6 tooth gap between both the spurs and the pinions and the mesh is ALOT better....Thanks again! Now if I can figure out how to stop bending CVD on the front of the car I would be money (yeah I know, stop hitting stuff!)
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:39 PM   #16670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigeRyan
Thanks guys, I set my car up with a 6 tooth gap between both the spurs and the pinions and the mesh is ALOT better....Thanks again! Now if I can figure out how to stop bending CVD on the front of the car I would be money (yeah I know, stop hitting stuff!)
Make your front track width 199mm or 200mm.

Remove the O-rings inside front drive hub ( T0219 ) If you prefer less than 199mm trac width.
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Old 07-24-2006, 06:53 AM   #16671
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Had my Prospec dialed on the weekend. Ran with Swaugers 2005 winternats setup, only change was tires and extra 1mm in the upper arm position. Track was smooth with average grip, but the 40s all round wore really well, and provided enough grip to negotiate the tight technical track
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:03 PM   #16672
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hey axle, is the track you race on fairly big. Im also thinking of tryin that setup but the track I race on is huge
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Old 07-24-2006, 09:52 PM   #16673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182
Had my Prospec dialed on the weekend. Ran with Swaugers 2005 winternats setup, only change was tires and extra 1mm in the upper arm position. Track was smooth with average grip, but the 40s all round wore really well, and provided enough grip to negotiate the tight technical track

link to setup?
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Old 07-25-2006, 12:29 AM   #16674
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I check my G4S suspension arm layout ( superb handling in sweeper and a fighter in small corners ) and I believe C rear susp. block and very tall rear upper link are the closest match to G4S rear susp. layout.

I'm going to try that on Sunday and see what happen. Currently my MTX3 cannot hold racing line in smaller corners at higher speed.
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Old 07-31-2006, 02:22 AM   #16675
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OK Fellas,

I have emailed this mob http://www.gasrccar.com/ twice in regards to there locked front diff for the MTX-3 (under Hop Ups down the page) . I haven't recieved a reply so can anyone tell me if they are good or worth the $37 they want for it?

My Mugen has the stock one way in it so was wanting a diff for my short tight turn track we have and I also like to brake!
Can anyone tell me if there are substitues and maybe post up some links?
I live in Australia also.

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Old 07-31-2006, 03:21 AM   #16676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjc
OK Fellas,

I have emailed this mob http://www.gasrccar.com/ twice in regards to there locked front diff for the MTX-3 (under Hop Ups down the page) . I haven't recieved a reply so can anyone tell me if they are good or worth the $37 they want for it?

My Mugen has the stock one way in it so was wanting a diff for my short tight turn track we have and I also like to brake!
Can anyone tell me if there are substitues and maybe post up some links?
I live in Australia also.

Cheers,
Brett
I believe you can get a kfactory alloy peice to turn a mugen diff into a locker, at least i think its kfactory , i got my diff from onlinehobbies.com.au then put the locker in.

Or what a growing majority of people seem to be doing is converting a oneway into a locked diff.
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:14 AM   #16677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hav_lova
Or what a growing majority of people seem to be doing is converting a oneway into a locked diff.
How do you do this as I think thats basically what the one that Gasrccar sells does, but because I haven't seen photos of it as they dont have any on the sight I am not sure what to do?

Brett
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Old 07-31-2006, 06:32 AM   #16678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana
hey axle, is the track you race on fairly big. Im also thinking of tryin that setup but the track I race on is huge
It was a faily tight track, I got to second gear for a short time on the straight and that was it. Swauger's setups are generally on the loose side or so Ive heard, but the raising of the rear outer link worked very well.
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Old 07-31-2006, 06:33 AM   #16679
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mate, a locked diff is a locked diff no matter what... i'd say use what ever you feel comfortable buying and what ever you can purchase easiest
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Old 07-31-2006, 06:36 AM   #16680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hav_lova
link to setup?
Here you go -

http://www.mugenracing.com/image/rac...3ftmyers05.pdf
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